Advice for buying 940

I'm going to see a 1996 P reg 940 2.3 LPT Estate with a view to buying. Does anyone have any tips as to what to look out for? I'm told it's done about 70,000 miles. It's at a Volvo dealer so I should get a year's guarantee. Should I get an RAC check as well?

I had a secondhand Sept 1995 same model vehicle, excellent. Just changed it a few months ago for a '98 V90.

Watch out for the rear self levelling units, although they will be covered by the Volvo 12 month Used Car Warranty, which I have always found (3 times) to be an excellent protection. Personally I wouldn't bother with an RAC check as well, any faults of significance will be covered by the warranty. The Volvo warranty scheme is operated by RAC in fact (all dealings with your dealer, they claim from RAC).

I'm sure you'll enjoy the vehicle. Although I have much more power (204 bhp) in this car, the 2.3 LPT (137 bhp?)is in some ways a more useable power curve, steady surge from low down the rev range.

Stuart

Do you really lose that much changing the 2.3 to lpt? IF so does that make it underpowered for the weight?

Stu

Not sure I understand if that question was directed at me. The 2.3 LPT is 137 bhp I think, my current 3.0 litre straight six V90 is 204 bhp. Torque and usable power happen more progressively a bit higher up the rev band in the V90. Lovely engine sound though! Also had a 1961 2.3 HPT in a 960 Turbo, at 165 bhp I believe it was. That was more lively, but only when the revs were much higher.

The 2.3 LPT didn't feel underpowered, just fancied more when we changed.

Stuart

[sheerwater]

BEWARE OF THE vOLVO WARRANTY!!!!! As I understand it the Volvo dealers do not have cars on their forecourt over 60K miles under the Volvo scheme so the warranty may be 3rd party. The LPT is 135 BHP on mine. Points to watch. Known problem with steering column which was only replaced if requested by owner due to a knock on turning. Has it towed? If so is clutch AOK as not usually covered by warranty. Had an accident to rear at any time? Tends to kink bodywork due to crumple zone. Rear disks subject to corrosion and warp which causes an on/ off drag when braking at slow speeds. Check corrosion around the CAT as expensive if it blows. Check plug leads are fixed to plastic clips on the rocker cover, liable to be missing as turbo heat wrecks then. Check there is a heat guard fitted under clutch/brake cylinder. There is heavy heat here and I think some cars were not fitted with this in the first instance. Expensive if clutch cylinder goes as mine did. Check underneath for incorrect jacking points used. I have had a car damaged by a garage bending chassis section in when changing tyres etc. Check windscreen for tiny tiny pitts. Both my Volvos have been subject to these tiny pits which do not obscure driving normally but on a dark night cause a slight fogging (no different to other makes I would imagine) Check sills where heels have kicked paint as people get in. (galved so no problem) Worth checking the garage service records as all warranty and service replacements are recorded. I love the car but I still think that the 740s were better built. Cheers Nigel