Electrical problem 940

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

I used a piece of cable from the 12v+ Red wire to red and green wire. It fired up. When I connected that wire to those pins. Something happened. Injectors opened? It’s still rough and revs to 3000rpm. I must mention. Owners before me have been behind the dashboard and harness to cut wires for any reason. No idea. I find cut wires. Everywhere.
But the 3000rpm is

In that case, refit the relay and that's another potential fault eliminated.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

In that case, refit the relay and that's another potential fault eliminated.

Indeed 👍🏻 Progress 👌🏻

On each side of the struthousing. Where there’s three big plugs. They’re very dirty and looks brittle underneath the coil.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Indeed 👍🏻 Progress 👌🏻

On each side of the struthousing. Where there’s three big plugs. They’re very dirty and looks brittle underneath the coil.

The back axle looks dirty and rusty too but isn't related to the problem.

I'm not being sarcastic, just pointing out they're almost certainly not related and trying to go off at a tangent to the diagnostic procedure is likely to cause more headaches than it solves.

It may be we have to come to those plugs at some point in the diagnosis but fiddling with bits that we aren't interested in yet could cause other problems.

Any idea on when your NOID light is arriving? Meanwhile you coudl do that test on the injector feed with the multimeter but that would only confirm that nothing nasty is happening between the RSR and the injectors. In other words, probably not necessary at this point seeing as you bypassed the RSR with the wire.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The back axle looks dirty and rusty too but isn't related to the problem.

I'm not being sarcastic, just pointing out they're almost certainly not related and trying to go off at a tangent to the diagnostic procedure is likely to cause more headaches than it solves.

It may be we have to come to those plugs at some point in the diagnosis but fiddling with bits that we aren't interested in yet could cause other problems.

Any idea on when your NOID light is arriving? Meanwhile you coudl do that test on the injector feed with the multimeter but that would only confirm that nothing nasty is happening between the RSR and the injectors. In other words, probably not necessary at this point seeing as you bypassed the RSR with the wire.

Haha yeah you’re right. There’s no tracking on the noid light. It’s expected in 2 weeks or so. Plugs are black btw. Very black.

I will try to get readings on those injectors today !

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Haha yeah you’re right. There’s no tracking on the noid light. It’s expected in 2 weeks or so. Plugs are black btw. Very black.

I will try to get readings on those injectors today !

If you can and i'll then give you another test to try, no surprise on the plugs being black to be honest, i kind of suspected as much - more of that later.

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you can and i'll then give you another test to try, no surprise on the plugs being black to be honest, i kind of suspected as much - more of that later.

Injectors shows 12,37volts on ignition and on 3000rpm

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Injectors shows 12,37volts on ignition and on 3000rpm

Good - nothing more you can do on that section electrically now until the NOID light arrives.

Next test, start the car and let it idle, locate the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on the end of the fuel rail. It will have two rubber hoses on it, a thick one which is the fuel return line and a thin one which is the vacuum line to the inlet manifold.

Pull the thin rubber hose off the FPR and put your thumb over the end of the rubber hose. Listen for any changes in engine note and watch the small stub on the FPR for any signs of petrol coming out. None should.

Refit the small vacuum hose. Do you have a hydraulic hose clamp like this?



Assuming the previous test was ok and you have a hose clamp like that, fit it to the return line from the FPR and clamp it off temporarily - again listen for any change in engine note as you do it. With the hose clamped, try revving it above 3000rpm. Let us know what happens!

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Good - nothing more you can do on that section electrically now until the NOID light arrives.

Next test, start the car and let it idle, locate the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on the end of the fuel rail. It will have two rubber hoses on it, a thick one which is the fuel return line and a thin one which is the vacuum line to the inlet manifold.

Pull the thin rubber hose off the FPR and put your thumb over the end of the rubber hose. Listen for any changes in engine note and watch the small stub on the FPR for any signs of petrol coming out. None should.

Refit the small vacuum hose. Do you have a hydraulic hose clamp like this?



Assuming the previous test was ok and you have a hose clamp like that, fit it to the return line from the FPR and clamp it off temporarily - again listen for any change in engine note as you do it. With the hose clamped, try revving it above 3000rpm. Let us know what happens!

I unplugged that vacuum hose. There was slight different idle. But I can’t really tell because the engine almost stalls if it’s on idle for more that 5 minutes.

There was no leakage out of the FPR.
I clamped the returnhose. Still no difference.

[nutco]

[QUOTE=Ammorack;2614097]I unplugged that vacuum hose. There was slight different idle. But I can’t really tell because the engine almost stalls if it’s on idle for more that 5 minutes.

when its idling rough does the exhaust fumes smell very rich ?

[Laird Scooby]

[QUOTE=nutco;2614160]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

I unplugged that vacuum hose. There was slight different idle. But I can’t really tell because the engine almost stalls if it’s on idle for more that 5 minutes.

when its idling rough does the exhaust fumes smell very rich ?

Apparrently his plugs are very black so i'd say yes, i can guess you're thiking Lambda sensor?

Thing is, as far as i understand the situation, it does it from cold as well when an over-rich mixture wouldn't cause the same sort of problems. Hence the fuel pressure test above, not to mention having gone through several other things from the start of the thread.