Gearbox Fluid replacement.

[volvo always]

I have a 1996 940 LPT Automatic and would like to change or get changed the gearbox fluid.

What oil would you advice? How much does it need? Is there a drain plug, any idea on size? I presume refill using funnel and dipstick tube?

My fluid is rather manky, even though asked for it to be changed.

Thanks. James

[jpliddy]

hi i have changed the auto oil myself on my 1995 diesel auto a few times now
my auto box is is the ZF HP 22 so has a drain plug i think the whole unit holds over 9 litres but when draining the the sump only holds about 3 litres so i bought enough oil to cover this . drained 3 litres drove car for a week then drooped oil again did this 3 times . its a bit slow but it works for me there are posts on here regarding this . fill up via dip stick i have used volvos ATF and euro car parts oil both should be able to advise you on the correct oil with your car reg details . keep us informed of your progress

[Forrest]

Here’s the write-up I did when I changed mine about three years ago.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=1665613

Both cars still running trouble-free.

[Laird Scooby]

I use one of these down the dipstick tube all the way to the bottom.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Oil-F...4AAOSw49VZ5G4s

Switch on, make sure the outlet/discharge hose is in a suitable container (i used an old 5L screenwash bottle), go and have a coffee (or beverage of your choice), come back 15-20 minutes later, wait for the pump to get to the last bit then switch off.

Now using the new fluid, top up to the right level, take it for a test run and recheck the level after.

For the fluid, i use this stuff :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...QAAOSwBEpZpY7F

Backwards compatible with the Dexron but a much smoother change, quieter and more economical too.

Like Jim a couple of posts up, i did 2 or 3 "part-changes" a few hundred miles apart and from now on will do one a year to keep the fluid clean and within the service spec.

You can also use this ATf in the steering and also for topping up hydraulic jacks and if you mix it 50/50 with acetone, give it a good shake and squirt it on rusted bolts, you'll be able to undo them where all other penetrating fluid has failed!

[volvo always]

Thanks everyone. I found a post on a google search and it says to use ATF Type F or G.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/se...nServicing.pdf

I see it's still available but can you use any ATF or is something else better?

I plan to get the gearbox drained doing the first dump method by the garage and then me repeating after, unless of course they suck it all out. At least if the drain plug is stiff they can sort it out. I'm going to buy that tool Laird Scooby, looks great.

James

[Laird Scooby]

The Carlube ATF-U is backwards compatible with Types F and G, one of those i'm sure is the same as Fords "Mercon" spec. Either way you've either got a ZF or Aisin-Warner box, both of which run happily on most fluids but i've found ATF-U works better.

Whichever method you (or the garage) use to remove the fluid, the torque converter will still hold a few litres of fluid. The only way of getting all the fluid out in one go is to use the flushing method which is basically draining the gearbox from one of the cooler hoses with the engine running, refilling with fresh then draining again, refilling than draining then finally refilling.

This can damage the gearbox as it's going from old, thin fluid to new, fresh, thick fluid in one go, no mileage in between to allow the seals to recover (additives in the ATF help revive/condition the seals) gently so there is a strong possibility that you could blow seals doing it this way.
Also doing the three part-changes over a period of time allows for more dirt to be cleaned/removed from the inside of the box.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The Carlube ATF-U is backwards compatible with Types F and G, one of those i'm sure is the same as Fords "Mercon" spec. Either way you've either got a ZF or Aisin-Warner box, both of which run happily on most fluids but i've found ATF-U works better.

Whichever method you (or the garage) use to remove the fluid, the torque converter will still hold a few litres of fluid. The only way of getting all the fluid out in one go is to use the flushing method which is basically draining the gearbox from one of the cooler hoses with the engine running, refilling with fresh then draining again, refilling than draining then finally refilling.

This can damage the gearbox as it's going from old, thin fluid to new, fresh, thick fluid in one go, no mileage in between to allow the seals to recover (additives in the ATF help revive/condition the seals) gently so there is a strong possibility that you could blow seals doing it this way.
Also doing the three part-changes over a period of time allows for more dirt to be cleaned/removed from the inside of the box.

I think its an AW71. Thanks for the further advice I'll stick to the sump drain method as sounds better and safer.

Thanks. James

[Laird Scooby]

You're welcome James - i've done two or three part-changes using ATF-U on my 760 which has an AW71 now and each time a friend who knows the car pretty well has noticed just how much smoother it has been with each change.

[volvo always]

I am having the gearbox oil drained tomorrow, Wednesday and so went to my local motor factors this evening and they looked up my car by reg number and supplied me with Dexron II. From my post 5 it says to use type F or G ATF. Is Dexron II ok to use or should I find type F or G atf?

I don't want to use the potentially wrong fluid and ruin the gearbox!

Many thanks. James

[Laird Scooby]

You'll be ok with Dexron II, ATF Type F or G, Mercon, Chrysler ATF or as i suggested in my earlier post, Carlube ATF-U.

Types F and G were as far as i know, originally a Ford spec ATF, later superseded by Mercon.

However both the ZF and Aisin-Warner boxes are pretty much designed for Dexron II or any of the above.

For preference, the Carlube ATF-U (or if you feel rich, Valvoline Maxlife ATF) would be my choice - it's synthetic so stays in grade longer, is less prone to foaming and has better friction modifiers and other additives than the others.