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Manol JWS 3309 ATF, anyone used it?

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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 12:17   #1
KazFarooq
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Default Manol JWS 3309 ATF, anyone used it?

This has probably been discussed. I want to change ATF in my 2007 D5 using Gibbons technique. Mobil quite pricey. Mannol very well priced from Germany on EBay. Before people shoot me down and write about not to compromise on gearbox lube, it's more a case of if anyone has used it. Any any issues? And those in the know (I'm a novice at such tasks), would you trust such a product? If specc'd on the bottle correctly, is that enough of a reassurance?
It is correctly specc'd.
Regards
Kaz

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-5x4-Lit...0AAOSw0vBUmVkO

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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 12:21   #2
cheshired5
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I've read of at least 4 members who've bought it and used it without incident.
Not seen anything negative about it.

A selection of threads and posts here
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=si...annol+JWS+3309
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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 17:42   #3
KazFarooq
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Default Oil purchased!

Thanks for the linkie, after reading through, I decided to buy 20l of the Mannol ATF, after conversion it came to £44.36 with postage. That's a lot less than 5l of Mobil. I'll feedback my findings. My box works well, 90k miles, one sump n dump done. Plan on a full Gibbons exchange. Oil arrives Saturday, job will be done Sunday. Pics to follow.
Kaz
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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 17:51   #4
kenny
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I used it and it was fine. in fact still have 10ltrs in the garage. I would recommend doing several sump changes rather than a full flush. When you change it the new oil will clear out all the valves etc in the box so new oil will become contaminated quite quickly. So several changes will keep cleaning as apose to a full flush which will stay contaminated.
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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 19:14   #5
KazFarooq
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Makes sense Kenny. Sump n dump so much easier to do. How many litres do you suggest in total. I know its a dilution technique and you suggested every 1000 miles earlier right?
Kaz

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Old Nov 16th, 2015, 20:51   #6
kenny
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Yes I did about 1000 miles between each dump and fill. I didn't think there was anything wrong with my box but straight after the first change it was so smooth it was like a new box. When I changed it again I noticed the same and did a third change just to make sure any contamination was removed.
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Old Nov 19th, 2015, 22:22   #7
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Ive done my flush last year with Volvo fluid.
If I want to do several sump changes, Is it alright to add mannol fluid to the the genuine Volvo fluid already in the system?
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Old Nov 19th, 2015, 22:26   #8
Bonefishblues
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I saw it on here and linked it to uksaabs forum where several members have already used it in their 9-5s. All good.
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Old Nov 19th, 2015, 22:37   #9
kenny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreviz View Post
Ive done my flush last year with Volvo fluid.
If I want to do several sump changes, Is it alright to add mannol fluid to the the genuine Volvo fluid already in the system?
Should be fine, the oil is the same grade, it would be like mixing castrol 3309 oil with Mobil 3309 oil.
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Old Nov 27th, 2015, 00:39   #10
KazFarooq
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Talking Gibbons done.

Bit the bullet this evening. Decided against Sump n dumps as originally planned for now. Car has done 91k so I decided to do a one off Gibbons to get as much of the old stuff out. I then plan do a sump n dump every 10k with the engine oils n filter changes. This way there will be relatively newish oil in the transmission at any one time (and the engine too of course). Had 20 litres on Mannol JWS3309 to play with. Decided to go for full flush with Gibbons method and had purchased the pipe and spare green clip with o rings.

Sump plugs off, got 3.2 litres. With previous 2 sump n dumps drains 2.2 and 2.7 l. Can anyone explain why the difference, I drained the box in my garage on all three occasions?

Anyway, I replaced the dropped oil, then replacing drain plugs. I flushed through a total of 16l including the first sump n dump. The oil looked new coming up so I couldn't justify further flushing. I did move through all the gears on 3 of the pumps outs. I was not convinced this made any difference ie a sudden ejection of dirty oil. Any comments on this?

I replaced exactly what I drained, carefully measuring losses. Once I replaced filler bolt I let engine run for 15 mins to allow new oil to warm up in the box - do you think that was enough? I opened the level plug with engine running and about 100mls of warm (but not hot) oil flowed out before it dripped at which point I tightened up the bolt.

I took Betty for a 15 mile ride and boy, she was silky smooth. I can not thank the folk on these forums enough. Without the wealth of knowledge on these forums, Volvo garages (and Indies) across the nation would be pocketing our hard earned cash. If I can do this task, anyone can. I'm a ordinarily a Medic not a Mechanic! Do it! And keep your transmission boxes running!

One thing I did notice, on starting the engine for first time after the level check, on selecting reverse to exit my garage, the traction control warning light illuminated, but then went after I selected D to move on forwards , and has remained off. Any ideas? All fine and dandy now.
From one chuffed Doc!

Kaz

Ps I will update how I get on with Mannol transmission oil. By all accounts all should be fine. Still can't believe the cost saving!

Last edited by KazFarooq; Nov 27th, 2015 at 00:41.
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