Picking up a V70 tomorrow

[Kev Ush]

Hi folks,

Picking up a 2008 Volvo V70 SE Lux Nav tomorrow. It’s my first Volvo so I figured it would be good to join a forum as I usually find they are a godsend if things start going wrong....

I’m expecting a few things not to be perfect with this V70 as it’s sitting on around 210000 miles...but I’m hoping that means it just about run in. Most of those miles have been motorway miles or long commutes to work. From what I’ve read these engines are supposed to be good with regular servicing which it has had. The current (2nd) owner has just bought a newer XC60 so basically just wanted rid of it. It was just going to be abandoned at the dealership, free to a good home. I put a bid on it through a mutual friend so it wouldn’t be left there and the rest is history. It’s still Mot’D until September!! Figured if it was a bucket I could scrap it for more than what it’s costing me so it’s worth taking a chance on. But I also have a 2 post ramp set up in my shed so sorting mechanical stuff wouldn’t be an issue either.

Is there anything to keep an eye out for on these vehicles? Any common issues to worry about at this sort of mileage?

Oh and is there anywhere where I can get a copy of its build sheet online.

Thanks,

Kev

[Tatsfield]

If you are going to be doing any work on this car and be chasing down faults, you might consider buying a VIDA/DiCE diagnostic on ebay to run on a laptop. The software runs under Win7 and does not need internet for your car. Even if you don't have a laptop, the kit plus a suitable old laptop plus a car charger for the laptop would set you back less than£100 for the identical kit used by Volvo dealers back in the day when your car was current, which for you it still is! The gear reads all the fault logs, test circuitry and reports the problems to you. It also has a parts diagram listing for all the parts relevant to your car which it can identify from the VIN. Your Volvo is an elderly computer on wheels and you need to approach it that way rather than seeing it as a purely electromechanical device.

[ferg55]

210k miles won't be a problem providing its not been abused. By that I mean not driven stupidy or severely neglected - these cars can take a lot of wear and tear, and don't need to have been pampered to remain reliable. High mileage built up with long trips of continuous driving, like your V70 has had, isn't normally an issue; I'd rather that than half the mileage from stop start driving around town. Most importantly, make sure the aux belt and tensioner has been changed on time.

This recent thread will be of use:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=301991

Hope this helps.

[Kev Ush]

Thanks for the tips folks.

I’ve got a snap on scanner that is fully up to date with the software so I’ll see how that communicates with the Volvo...sometimes it’s great with certain cars and sometimes it’s rubbish. I’ll probably end up getting the Volvo software as own software is always much better.

The car is due a service now so I’ll get all the belts and tensioners and alternate pulley done. I’ve got a trade account so the bits won’t be to expensive....

....so I picked up the car today and paid the grand total of £200 for it

It’s not without its issues which was to be expected but it drives brilliantly. I was shocked at how well it drives and how well the interior has held up for its mileage. The only way you can tell it’s high mileage inside is the gearknob. Was chuffed to bits when I found it has the child booster seats!!

So problems...

1. It says the drivers door is open when it’s not.

2. It unlocks with the fob but doesn’t lock. Might be because of problem 1.

3. Has some suspension knocks from all 4 corners by the sounds of it. It sounds like it could be ARB bushes or drop links but I don’t know what the suspension setup looks like on these yet. Will hopefully get it up on the ramp next week for a look.

4. Window washers don’t squirt. I first thought it was just empty but after filling it up it started leaking from in front of the passenger side wheel.

5. Needs new rear discs and pads...easy enough sorted.

If anyone knows some fixes to some of these issues please feel free to chime in.

Everything seams spot on though. Managed 45mpg on the way home, Electric seats work, sat nav works, tail gate opens and closes by itself. Only just got it home so didn’t have time to do anything before it got dark. Hopefully I’ll get some time tomorrow to have a better look at it and give it a wash.

Kev.

[Oak]

Leaking from the front corner is probably as the headlight washers (if fitted?) have become disconnected. There’s a join in front of the wheel and this can pop off in cold weather. You can check this by undoing the fasternrs on the front wheel well arch liner, first few are needed to pull it back enough. You can also try going from the front fog light trim too. This pulls off (warm it first otherwise clips can ( and do...cough) snap. And you can reach in and have access from both sides.

Mine had done exactly this. I did join it back but it had been previously botched so it popped off again. I zip tied it off in the end until I can fix it properly (new hoses would do it but it’s £50 for the official Volvo ones) but I’ve plenty of other jobs to do first!

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Kev Ush

Thanks for the tips folks.

I’ve got a snap on scanner that is fully up to date with the software so I’ll see how that communicates with the Volvo...sometimes it’s great with certain cars and sometimes it’s rubbish. I’ll probably end up getting the Volvo software as own software is always much better.

The car is due a service now so I’ll get all the belts and tensioners and alternate pulley done. I’ve got a trade account so the bits won’t be to expensive....

....so I picked up the car today and paid the grand total of £200 for it

It’s not without its issues which was to be expected but it drives brilliantly. I was shocked at how well it drives and how well the interior has held up for its mileage. The only way you can tell it’s high mileage inside is the gearknob. Was chuffed to bits when I found it has the child booster seats!!

So problems...

1. It says the drivers door is open when it’s not.

2. It unlocks with the fob but doesn’t lock. Might be because of problem 1.

3. Has some suspension knocks from all 4 corners by the sounds of it. It sounds like it could be ARB bushes or drop links but I don’t know what the suspension setup looks like on these yet. Will hopefully get it up on the ramp next week for a look.

4. Window washers don’t squirt. I first thought it was just empty but after filling it up it started leaking from in front of the passenger side wheel.

5. Needs new rear discs and pads...easy enough sorted.

If anyone knows some fixes to some of these issues please feel free to chime in.

Everything seams spot on though. Managed 45mpg on the way home, Electric seats work, sat nav works, tail gate opens and closes by itself. Only just got it home so didn’t have time to do anything before it got dark. Hopefully I’ll get some time tomorrow to have a better look at it and give it a wash.

Kev.

The strut mounts appear to be a fairly common suspension issue, so they're worth checking too.

With regards to your window washers, it could be the pump itself that's the issue. When you press the stalk inside the car to spray the window, can you hear anything? If not, the pump may have packed in or possibly the rubber grommet on the pump that's basically a filter could be full of dirt & no water will spray as a result. You need to take the wheel arch lining off to replace the pump. It could also be a blown fuse, so check that too!

If I recall correctly, I do think there's more than one pump though - One for the headlight washers & one for the window.

Have a read of this thread:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=250945

[Tatsfield]

If washer tubing pops off its connectors, a miniature nylon cable tie around the tube above the raised lip on the connector helps prevent it coming off again. Usually this happening is when the jets are constricted and the pressure builds in the tubing.

Interested that the tailgate not only opens but also closes by itself. That is not standard. The car coming off the assembly line will remote open but you have to close with the button on the hatch to avoid guillotining unseen children etc. Yours must have the Evgeny modified module which I bought from him that also closes the hatch on the remote and on the dash button. I use it when carrying shopping bags out of the boot but while it is a novel mod, it's not really as useful as I thought it would be when I fitted it.

[Kev Ush]

So managed to find some spare time to give the thing a wash and it actually came up looking not to bad. Does need some tar spots removed and a good cut and polish. Also discovered it has the windscreen leak. Not much just a couple of drops after using the pressure washer above the windscreen. Spoke to my local windscreen place and they said they would give it a go trying to remove the windscreen and reseal it but can’t promise it won’t break. Quoted £240+vat for a new windscreen. Not to bad I thought.

Then I plugged in the diagnostics scanner which came up with a few fault code on the engine...

1. Maf sensor current above threshold. So just replace I presume. Haven’t looked at the set up under the bonnet yet and I’m not totally clued up on modern diesels.

2. EGR sensor circuit “A” high. Hopefully a clean out will sort it. Must be clogged up after 200000 miles.

3. No1 glow plug circuit open. I’ll check the wiring if that’s ok I’ll replace it. Anyone know if these are easy to snap off in these engines?

4. Engine oil level sensor general fault. I’ll check the wiring but probably just replace it when I give it a service.

5. Intake manifold runner position sensor general fault. I’m not familiar with the terminology, does it mean throttle position sensor?

A few other codes came up but they are just things like drivers door module, rear parking sensors etc etc nothing major.

Also reached underneath to give the ARBs a good shake. The rear arb bushes are definitely buggered so that will probably be the cause of the rear knock. Front also had a bit of play but also the steering arms felt a bit loose. Front wishbones look new so hopefully won’t have to replace those bushes.

If I can get this thing fixed up for around the £600 mark I’ll be happy. Obviously getting parts (non gen) at trade prices will help a lot.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Kev Ush

So managed to find some spare time to give the thing a wash and it actually came up looking not to bad. Does need some tar spots removed and a good cut and polish. Also discovered it has the windscreen leak. Not much just a couple of drops after using the pressure washer above the windscreen. Spoke to my local windscreen place and they said they would give it a go trying to remove the windscreen and reseal it but can’t promise it won’t break. Quoted £240+vat for a new windscreen. Not to bad I thought.

Then I plugged in the diagnostics scanner which came up with a few fault code on the engine...

1. Maf sensor current above threshold. So just replace I presume. Haven’t looked at the set up under the bonnet yet and I’m not totally clued up on modern diesels.

2. EGR sensor circuit “A” high. Hopefully a clean out will sort it. Must be clogged up after 200000 miles.

3. No1 glow plug circuit open. I’ll check the wiring if that’s ok I’ll replace it. Anyone know if these are easy to snap off in these engines?

4. Engine oil level sensor general fault. I’ll check the wiring but probably just replace it when I give it a service.

5. Intake manifold runner position sensor general fault. I’m not familiar with the terminology, does it mean throttle position sensor?

A few other codes came up but they are just things like drivers door module, rear parking sensors etc etc nothing major.

Also reached underneath to give the ARBs a good shake. The rear arb bushes are definitely buggered so that will probably be the cause of the rear knock. Front also had a bit of play but also the steering arms felt a bit loose. Front wishbones look new so hopefully won’t have to replace those bushes.

If I can get this thing fixed up for around the £600 mark I’ll be happy. Obviously getting parts (non gen) at trade prices will help a lot.

Maf sensor - The existing one may need a clean, check the wiring too. If all fails, a replacement sensor may be the best route. If you do clean the existing one, disconnect the wiring plug & use mass air flow sensor cleaner spray, or electrical contact cleaner. Then do your cleaning & then let it dry for a while before fitting it back into position.

I had that error on my car (Intake manifold runner position sensor). On investigation, the plastic link rod that activates the swirl arm had fallen off - The part isn't expensive, about £6 or so from Volvo. What usually happens is through wear & tear, the ball that the link rod attaches to gets smaller/worn & the rod falls off because it has nothing to keep it in place. There's DIY fixes that you can do, so its worth having a look to see if the plastic link rod is still in place.

Have a look at this video, it'll give you an idea of the part I'm talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsltZXXnX3k

On the P3 V70, you need to remove the plastic intake pipe to get proper access to this part. Its held in place with jubilee clips & shouldn't be too hard to remove. Make sure you don't go tugging too hard on the pipes though because there's sensors & vent tubing attached, so many sure you double check that they're removed first before yanking anything out of your way! (The plastic intake pipe seals into position well & it requires a bit of wiggling to remove).

The EGR code - Its probably worth cleaning the EGR assemby, checking the pipes for any splits etc. It can be a messy job though!

With regards to your suspension, I'd suggest buying brands like Lemforder if you aren't buying genuine. Its worth spending extra for decent quality, so don't buy the cheapest parts you see if at all possible because you'll be replacing them again because they're poorly made. Don't forget to get a 4-wheel alignment done if your replacing the steering arms/track rod ends.

[Bashy]

Most insurance Co. have screens included and does not effect any claims nor ya no claims bonus, its totally separate and normally about £70