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Car draining battery overnight

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Old Mar 30th, 2020, 15:05   #11
Tatsfield
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+1 The value of a forum isn't just the narrow question and answer for the guy with a problem. It's a community for all and over the years with the use of the search engine, it should be possible to find previously contributed answers from a growing fund of Volvo knowledge. To make sure the answers are applicable it is vital that questioners return to the thread to post the outcome. Anything less is just selfish!

Also, while I'm ranting. A signature with the appropriate car spec would be a polite way to help others know what car was being discussed without having to trawl through the earlier part of the thread which might be pages long.

There, rant over.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2020, 19:42   #12
ksmi
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Can I ,wearing my L plates, ask a couple of questions?
1) 'Trick the car into going to sleep' i.e. key off and out,lock doors with bonnet still open,correct? or.....

2)Drop test?? each fuse. 1 probe to earth? the other to each fuse holder? meter set on amps?

Please forgive my ignorance, electrics and I are not exactly au fait.


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Old Apr 3rd, 2020, 01:15   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksmi View Post
Can I ,wearing my L plates, ask a couple of questions?
1) 'Trick the car into going to sleep' i.e. key off and out,lock doors with bonnet still open,correct? or.....

2)Drop test?? each fuse. 1 probe to earth? the other to each fuse holder? meter set on amps?

Please forgive my ignorance, electrics and I are not exactly au fait.


Regards.

Keith.
Not sure about No1...perhaps tape the door light and bonnet open switches down to emulate being closed and then lock the car but with bonnet up and door open?

No2 is a trace eliminate scenario.

Your 1st meter is under the bonnet. Set it to amps. Disconnect a battery lead. I prefer the positive. Positive meter lead to the cars positivebattery lead you just removed,negative meter lead to the battery positive terminal. Be sure to isolate the leads from car and meter preventing them touching metal.

One indicator of a parasitic drain will be that as you remove/replace the battery positive lead a spark will be seen and or heard. It indicates something is still drawing current.

Check what the meter is reading. If it's reading something continue to investigate.

Your 2nd meter is set to volts.
Going to one fuse at a time and check for voltage.
You can either pull each fuse and check across the terminals for voltage or put your negative meter lead to an earthed point and probe with the positive lead into the fuse. Anything with voltage needs the fuse removed then check the meter under the bonnet showing amps.
You don't necessarily need another meter. A test lamp would suffice. If at any point the lamp is lit you have voltage.


Repeat this until the meter on amps shows zero when one of more fuses are removed.

It's also worth a full disconnect of the alternator too. It's not unheard of that the alternator is the culprit for a to earth discharge. Again be careful to isolate the leads when removed. Any arcing will potentially damage delicate components on your car.
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Old Apr 26th, 2020, 09:42   #14
Imaden123
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Default No fault found

We carried on doing a number of tests but in the end just replaced the battery. What we did find was that the bonnet home plug had been shorted out with a loop of copper wire. Presumably because the switch was faulty in the bonnet catch. We replaced that bodge with a new bodge. That old bodge was presumably setting the alarm, off intermittently.
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