The Joy Of 240's, with issues...

[heckflosse]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Re the Volvo tool. It works. Loki loans one out. If keeping the car, buying the tool was for me an obvious sensible investment.

Reams can be written and have been written, some disparaging, for and against the tool and whether to use it.

I could not expect to shift that tightness with a 12" breaker bar even when I was younger. My breaker bar of choice now is 2 metres.

Impact driver. Used by some very experienced forum members. There is an interesting thread where Classic Swede and his father (iirc) changed a belt road side in 25 seconds. I quote that time inaccurately. Beware tightening with impact driver.

There's a lot to be said for Clifford Pope's method. Cut the lower belt cover. such that it can be removed and replaced without disturbing the crankshaft pulley bolt. It has been discussed in the forum. I understand no problem has been experienced from ingress of anything.

Good luck.

.

I remember breaking the crank soft metal timing gear many years ago as an apprentice. Thought Id just buzz the pulley off with the air gun-it chattered back and forth and snapped the small lug. Service manager not impressed, lesson learned!

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Othen

The screwdriver method never fails for very tight oil filters.

Oh yes it does!

I found one once that was so tight the screwdriver simply ripped a slot round the filter until turned to a position where the screwdriver couldn't turn any more because of obstructions.
The can is quite thin, and only really has any strength while intact. In the end it took a chain on a socket drive to budge it - the only tool that you can turn continually, from underneath, without running into things. The can was completely mangled and crushed into the central core before it unscrewed.

But I agree, usually it works.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

Oh yes it does!

I found one once that was so tight the screwdriver simply ripped a slot round the filter until turned to a position where the screwdriver couldn't turn any more because of obstructions.
The can is quite thin, and only really has any strength while intact. In the end it took a chain on a socket drive to budge it - the only tool that you can turn continually, from underneath, without running into things. The can was completely mangled and crushed into the central core before it unscrewed.

But I agree, usually it works.

Gosh, I’d never heard of that previously.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Whilst I've read that the LH2.4 system deals with the timing and it is therefore not adjustable, the facility to do so, mechanically at least, exists.

That's interesting - how does it do that? I didn't think turning the distributor actually altered the timing of the spark - I thought the spark was timed by the electronic control, and the distributor was simply the mechanism for passing the message on to the plugs. Or am I missing something?

[CosmicBike]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

That's interesting - how does it do that? I didn't think turning the distributor actually altered the timing of the spark - I thought the spark was timed by the electronic control, and the distributor was simply the mechanism for passing the message on to the plugs. Or am I missing something?

I'm not sure, my normal territory is Pinto engines with carbs, so timing is entirely mechanical, with adjustment by rotating the dizzy body.

The Volvo dizzy is driven by the auxiliary shaft, which is driven by the timing belt. Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If I remember I'll post a pic.

The one thing I do know. My belt was 1 tooth out, on the aux shaft, from the timing marks. The rotor arm was, with the No.1 cylinder at TDC, just after the No.1 plug contact. Rotating the body would correct this.

I guess I'll have a play. If the Pinto is anything to go by, very small rotational adjustments make a big difference to how the car runs. One of mine with a hot cam in it needs 14 degrees or it simply won't run, yet a standard cam is happy at 8 degrees.

[CosmicBike]

I did an essential drive today in Grace. Dog food and Costco. Still rough at low rpm, but good on the motorway.
I also tried to put me through the windscreen, I can confirm that with clean brake fluid, they work very well indeed!!!

As an aside, the annoying seatbelt warning flasher has stopped working. Whilst a bit of a result, it doesn't affect anything else does it?

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If .

The point at which the spark is sent to the plug is determined by whatever initiates the spark. On a contact breaker distributor it is the points. On an electronic system it will be some separate activator. But it is not the distributor - the rotor arm doesn't determine the timing - the rotor arm only has to be pointing vaguely at the right plug contact.

On the LH2.4 system there is nothing inside the distributor at all, apart from the rotor arm in the cap.
Of course, if the setting is widely out and the spark has to jump too far from rotor arm to contact then it will misfire.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

I did an essential drive today in Grace. Dog food and Costco. Still rough at low rpm, but good on the motorway.
I also tried to put me through the windscreen, I can confirm that with clean brake fluid, they work very well indeed!!!

As an aside, the annoying seatbelt warning flasher has stopped working. Whilst a bit of a result, it doesn't affect anything else does it?

I agree about the seatbelt warning thing. I was thinking of disabling mine. Yours is probably protected by fuse #4 (with the ignition key buzzer) and fuse 13 (instrument lights and a few other things). Make sure those things work - otherwise if it is just the bulb in the flasher itself it should not affect anything else. It might be the relay, that sits above the kick panel to the right of the steering column (that is what I was going to disconnect to disable mine), so could save yourself some money my not replacing it :-)

I don't know anything about the ignition system on your engine, but generally the distributor doesn't control the timing per se (except that on earlier engines it contains the CB points and on one like mine the Hall effect sensor that does).

[heckflosse]

Originally Posted by CosmicBike

I'm not sure, my normal territory is Pinto engines with carbs, so timing is entirely mechanical, with adjustment by rotating the dizzy body.

The Volvo dizzy is driven by the auxiliary shaft, which is driven by the timing belt. Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If I remember I'll post a pic.

The one thing I do know. My belt was 1 tooth out, on the aux shaft, from the timing marks. The rotor arm was, with the No.1 cylinder at TDC, just after the No.1 plug contact. Rotating the body would correct this.

I guess I'll have a play. If the Pinto is anything to go by, very small rotational adjustments make a big difference to how the car runs. One of mine with a hot cam in it needs 14 degrees or it simply won't run, yet a standard cam is happy at 8 degrees.

Interesting anorak-y stuff here. Im converting an earlier 230ET engine to LH2.4 for a 200 series, which means swapping the aux shaft and "empty" LH dizzy. Plan on doing the normal dots/marks on the timing belt, rotor arm pointing halfway across the thin line in the top of the dizzy casing. There is a plastic cover over the timing adjuster slot on the dizzy that would seem to be setting it at a pre set place.
surely, flywheel sensor determines timing?
Keep cheerful and banish those Lockdown blues,
Jim

[Bob Meadows]

Quote:~
"As an aside, the annoying seat belt warning flasher has stopped working. Whilst a bit of a result, it doesn't affect anything else does it?"
--------------------- ~ ---------------------


If the seat belt warning light & click is annoying then you can always purchase a couple of dummy belt clips. It then stops the above if working on the car – just swap over when the belt is needed.
Bob