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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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98 940 2.3lpt auto stalling, not startingViews : 2003 Replies : 56Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 21:02 | #31 | |
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I wouldn't fit the other bits yet (except the CPS), not until you've put the new pump in if the old one is noisy. Fitting several new parts and getting it running is one result but you wont know what the final problem was so you won't know which, if any, of the old parts can be cleaned and put into stock as serviceable spares.
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Mar 27th, 2020, 21:18 | #32 | |
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Mar 29th, 2020, 22:05 | #33 |
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While I’m waiting for the new CPS I’ve been thinking about the problem a lot. Ive also been searching the forum for related posts.
Ive read this thread https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...tarting&page=4 In which a similar problem was reported and the diagnosis was broken pin on cam shaft. My problem first occurred right after i changed the cam belt. I’m wondering whether when i reinstalled the crank shaft pulley i did it wrong and have broken that blob of metal on the crank shaft which you align with the pulley. Hmm I borrowed the crank shaft removal tool so i cant actually check easily. I’m wondering whether i should check this before looking at other electrical issues? Thanks
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Mar 29th, 2020, 22:35 | #34 | |
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Mar 29th, 2020, 23:32 | #35 |
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah it happened first after a 30 min drive and as previously discussed at length I have been able to drive it since until it seems the car gets to a certain temp before it won’t start again still it’s colder under the bonnet. Havi just bought the car the issue is giving me some anxiety as you can probably tell so it’s a great relief to be able to discuss it with you experts on here. Thanks again. Will
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Mar 30th, 2020, 00:24 | #36 | |
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The symptoms also fit that as being the problem and just coincidence it took this time to play up - or perhaps it had been playing up all along and that's why the PO sold the car because he couldn't get it to be reliable.
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Mar 30th, 2020, 14:15 | #37 |
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My fuel pump went at about 160K (95 car), progressively went from occassional brief power loss to not starting then starting, then total failure. One point I was doing 60, engine dies, I kept the clutch engaged, rpms still alive on the gauge, came back on in about 5s. Another time outside work, end of the day would not start, but after a tow it did start. I think the higher voltage available (when not starting using the starter motor) helps overcome the resistance problems with worn brushes.
A wack with a pole or bar on the fuel tank connection area can sometimes shock the pump back into life. You can also check it with the priming when you turn the ignition on. Its needs to be a quiet environment and your hearing fairly good. The 98 car won't prime every time, you need to wait about 10s (you'll hear a click), then you can prime it again. Put the back seat down and lift up the seat flap that covers the hinge. The fuel tank inspection hatch is under there. If its grindy or non-existent its fked. You should normally get a nice high pitch whine from the pump, but its a brushed DC motor and the brushes eventually wear out. The correct budget is about £100 for a Bosch pump, I wouldn't use anything cheaper. They are hard to get, and you will need to work out an alternative part number and maybe modify something a little to fit. |
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Mar 30th, 2020, 14:31 | #38 | |
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My in-tank (low pressure, high volume) came from Rock Auto and has been in quite a while now, 2-3 years at least. That was a different brand and one of the cheaper ones available. Can't think of the brand just now but if you're on a budget, well worth investigating the other options. Bear in mind, if they were carp, they wouldn't sell them stateside as the grief just isn't worth it. If you really must pay more than is necessary, be my guest but when more cost-effective options are available that are tried and tested, i know what i'd do!
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Mar 30th, 2020, 17:27 | #39 | |
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Mar 30th, 2020, 17:54 | #40 | |
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