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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Camber angle and suspension strut boltsViews : 778 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 11th, 2019, 18:31 | #1 |
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Camber angle and suspension strut bolts
I've just replaced the front reluctor rings on my 1998 V70 Tdi.
As a result of disturbing the suspension strut to steering knuckle bolts when replacing the ABS reluctor rings the other day, I'm now replacing these nuts and bolts since they are single use stretch bolts. Even if they weren't, I wouldn't have wanted to re-use them anyway since the heads were somewhat corroded. I'd hoped to avoid having to disturb them but I was unable to free the lower balljoint from the steering knuckle. Now as I understand it, the camber angle is, in theory, not adjustable but with the bolts fitted loosley there is some free movement of the steering knuckle relative to the strut in the plane which will affect the camber angle. Not having any alignment gear or even a level piece of driveway attempting to measure the camber angle is probably a non-starter. So I'm thinking just to set the steering knuckles in the middle of the available range of adjustment and hope for the best. Does this seem reasonable or is there better way? The wheel alignment was good before I took the old bolts out. I should welcome your comments please. Many thanks Martin |
Jun 11th, 2019, 18:46 | #2 |
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Hi Martin.
I don't know where I got the idea from, but somewhere (ipd, fcp, robert etc) I picked up the idea that I should lift the brake disc and steering knuckle before tightening the knuckle to strut bolts. ie go for the max lean in of the top of the knuckle. That has given me an acceptable camber whenever I have subsequently had it checked. And it seems like the easy option. Hope that helps. Steve
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Jun 11th, 2019, 18:55 | #3 |
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Martin: ~ I have completed the same a few months back on a ’97 V70 estate (some previous correspondence exists regarding this & the ABS repair) after cleaning the various suspension parts & bolts then a straight forward – put everything back as found-procedure has been fine to date, tracking and camber remain as original i.e. no further adjustments required.
(I heated the rings to expand them prior to fitting) Hope it helps Bob. |
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Jun 11th, 2019, 19:24 | #4 |
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If the car drove well before dismantling, can you not re-assemble the strut and hubs by lining up the old rust/assembly shadow on the paint/metal. It should then be back to where it started.
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Jun 11th, 2019, 22:42 | #5 |
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Now why didn't I think of that? Sometimes it's remarkably easy to miss the obvious!
Much useful advice received so far. Many thanks. |
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Jun 12th, 2019, 17:57 | #6 |
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So the new nuts and bolts are in and properly tightened. Unfortunately the old rust/assembly shadow wasn't clear enough to provide a definitive setting, so in the end I went for Steve's suggestion but backed off very slightly.
I can't tell any difference from how it drove before so it can't be too far off. Thanks to all for their suggestions and comments. There are a few creaks and groans coming from the back which I think may be tired delta link bushes but that's a job for another day. Martin |
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Jun 14th, 2019, 04:44 | #7 | |
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Quote:
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Jun 14th, 2019, 10:20 | #8 |
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It's still pretty wet here so good luck. I'd be interested to hear how you get on. It's a job I may have to tackle sooner or later but I might just pay to have it done.
Martin. |
Jun 15th, 2019, 05:14 | #9 |
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The delta links are easy with the right bits of kit, I have changed a set in around an hour without the special tool but you will need various other things to do it!
I have just bought the tool now as I figure every 70 I buy those ends are going to be worn out due to the age!
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