Vag-com

[artiedtke]

Right, had a chance to have a play today.

First off the code being thrown was certainly the one Banksy1953 said.



Once cleared and with engine up to spec I was able to read the timing, it was around 7.5 degrees out, this is why the code was being thrown, however I never had any problems starting hot or cold.



I proceeded to adjust the bottom tensioner on the belt setup, firstly i adjusted it 'upwards' this made the timing worse (around 9.5 degrees) and slight problems starting too.

I re-adjusted the timing 'downwards' as far as it would go, and the result is 4.9 degrees, i cannot adjust it any further than this, the bottom adjuster is fully adjusted.



So I had a play with the top tensioner, but it seems I cannot adjust this much either. It seems to me like the top tensioner had been installed incorrectly ??

If you look at the following photo, the top tensioner shows the 13mm bolt on the left and the 6mm hex key slot on the right, whereas VADIS shows the 13mm bolt on the right and the hex slot on the left. Has the tensioner possibly been installed incorrectly by my mechanic ??



VADIS representation...


A better angle shows the static datum point and the variable point, below these at around 9 o'clock is another lug which looks like it is locked into a slot in the pump housing/bracket. Should this be in this position ??



Another angle, this shows the rear of the top tensioner. I cannot adjust the variable pointer towards the right very much as the metal of the static datum point seems to be in the way.



Anyhow this adjustment has stopped my EML light coming on, but its still not within spec.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.

Al.

EDIT: Is it possible that I need to adjust the belt by one tooth then use the bottom adjuster to adjust it out ????

[Clan]

you can do adjustments on the cam pulley over the gearbox which drives the pump , it is a taper fit , so loosen the pulley bolt a bit , tap the pulley to loosen the taper and make the smallest movment you can and nip up the pulley bolt again .. Once you see which way to move to suit what you need it will be easier , but you may need 5 or 6 attempts to get it right .

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Clan

you can do adjustments on the cam pulley over the gearbox which drives the pump , it is a taper fit , so loosen the pulley bolt a bit , tap the pulley to loosen the taper and make the smallest movment you can and nip up the pulley bolt again .. Once you see which way to move to suit what you need it will be easier , but you may need 5 or 6 attempts to get it right .

Clan,

When i loosen the top pulley is it quite easy to loosen the taper. Also is there a chance that everything will slip out of place ???

It seems to me that this is what needs to be done in order to correct it. Looks like the pulley needs to be turned clockwise to retard the timing ???

Also what is the torque spec for the top bolt ???

Cheers.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Clan,

When i loosen the top pulley is it quite easy to loosen the taper. Also is there a chance that everything will slip out of place ???

It seems to me that this is what needs to be done in order to correct it. Looks like the pulley needs to be turned clockwise to retard the timing ???

Also what is the torque spec for the top bolt ???

Cheers.

A sharp tap with a drift near the centre of the pulley should loosen it . ( from the engine side outwards ) Yes everything can move ( not slip ) out of place if you are a bit careless but do everything slowly and carefully and dont loosen the main bolt much or move the gear far .
If you move the top of the pulley towards the front of the car it will advance the timing and vice versa .

The pulley bolt is 160 nm ...

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Clan

A sharp tap with a drift near the centre of the pulley should loosen it . ( from the engine side outwards ) Yes everything can move ( not slip ) out of place if you are a bit careless but do everything slowly and carefully and dont loosen the main bolt much or move the gear far .
If you move the top of the pulley towards the front of the car it will advance the timing and vice versa .

The pulley bolt is 160 nm ...

Clan,

Thanks for this, it has given me a bit more enthusiasm to have a go myself now, i was going to give up and go to a diesel specialist.

As for loosening the bolt, will a half inch ratchet be enough or will a breaker bar be required, will the cam not turn when trying to loosen it ??? Leave the car in gear ?? Also for the record, its a standard bolt yes not a reverse thread one ???

When you say from the engine side outwards you mean from the back of the pulley, seems like there is very limited space to strike a mallett there ?? If i am looking directly at the top pulley from the airbox side of the car, i need to strike from behind ??

Yes the timing is currently around 5 degrees too advanced, tightening the idler at the bottom makes it worse, around 9 or 10 degrees too advanced. So by my reckoning, i need to move the pulley around half a tooth towards the bulkhead which will retard the timing by about 10 degrees making it -5 then adjust the bottom idler to cancel out the -5 to what it should be - well thats the plan.

Many thanks Clan.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Clan,

Thanks for this, it has given me a bit more enthusiasm to have a go myself now, i was going to give up and go to a diesel specialist.

As for loosening the bolt, will a half inch ratchet be enough or will a breaker bar be required, will the cam not turn when trying to loosen it ??? Leave the car in gear ?? Also for the record, its a standard bolt yes not a reverse thread one ???

When you say from the engine side outwards you mean from the back of the pulley, seems like there is very limited space to strike a mallett there ?? If i am looking directly at the top pulley from the airbox side of the car, i need to strike from behind ??

Yes the timing is currently around 5 degrees too advanced, tightening the idler at the bottom makes it worse, around 9 or 10 degrees too advanced. So by my reckoning, i need to move the pulley around half a tooth towards the bulkhead which will retard the timing by about 10 degrees making it -5 then adjust the bottom idler to cancel out the -5 to what it should be - well thats the plan.

Many thanks Clan.

Yes from the back of the pulley ( cam cover side ) where ever you can access .
You will need a long 1/2" squeare socket bar 2 foot long to make it easy , the correct way to hold the pulley is to hold it with the volvo tool so you push on the tool and pull on youir breaker bar .. But the engine never seems to want to turn if you havent the tool , a sharp tug to loosen it , and it is a normal threaded bolt .
Remember a 10 degree rotation of this pulley is 20 degrees at the crankshaft! so very smallest movments are needed .. the figures you see on the diagnostic equiment are crankshaft degrees .

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Clan

Remember a 10 degree rotation of this pulley is 20 degrees at the crankshaft! so very smallest movments are needed .. the figures you see on the diagnostic equiment are crankshaft degrees .

I remember reading on here somewhere that if you move the pump belt by one tooth that is about 10 degrees ????

EDIT: Here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=133220&page=2 about half way down by PNuT....

So if i move the cam by about half a tooth that should be around 5 degrees ??

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

I remember reading on here somewhere that if you move the pump belt by one tooth that is about 10 degrees ????

EDIT: Here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=133220&page=2 about half way down by PNuT....

So if i move the cam by about half a tooth that should be around 5 degrees ??

It depends how many teeth there are .
count the teeth , divide 360 by the number of teeth then multiply by 2 to get crank degrees .

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Clan

It depends how many teeth there are .
count the teeth , divide 360 by the number of teeth then multiply by 2 to get crank degrees .

360 / 33 = 10.90909 * 2 = 21.81818

So yeah about 20 degrees per tooth, so if i retard by around half a tooth should be about 10 degrees, then i can fine tune using the idler.

Will have a play on the weekend hopefully, just hope it starts afterwards as it is the only car i have !!!!!

What is the best way of adjusting the pulley after loosening it, turning the pump flywheel ????

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

360 / 33 = 10.90909 * 2 = 21.81818

So yeah about 20 degrees per tooth, so if i retard by around half a tooth should be about 10 degrees, then i can fine tune using the idler.

Will have a play on the weekend hopefully, just hope it starts afterwards as it is the only car i have !!!!!

What is the best way of adjusting the pulley after loosening it, turning the pump flywheel ????

so that's sorted then
I use the holding tool which holds the pulley when you undo the bolt , it has a long handle and you can move the pulley very finely with it , might be worth making up something to do it that way .. The handle on the drawing is a lot longer than shown .