"Clonk" still there after replacing enginemounts - Page 3

ASt85 · Jan 27th, 2019, 03:50

Torque for the standard bolts are
Stage 1 - 35 Nm
Stage 2 - Angle tighten a further 90°

For the rubber cone XC90 wheel bolts it is
50Nm - no further angle stage

R-P · Feb 18th, 2019, 15:20

Haven't had time* to replace any of the bought items, and had an hour to kill.

Drove by the Volvo dealer and payed them for 15 minutes of investigating. They drove the car and put it on the ramp/bridge/whatchamacallit_in_English_when_you_jack_up_the_ca r.

He (mechanic) was convinced it was the subframe having too much play and said it should clearly show if you would loosen the bolts and drop it slightly. He did expect it to be a loose bolt, but all subframebolts were torqued (at least) to spec.

If I support the subframe like 50cm from the ground, undo the bolts (and the top-engine-mounts) and lift the rest of the car a few centimeters, I think one should be able to change or at least investigate if they are to blame.

Not convinced, but since this conclusion cost me 30 euro's, I feel obliged to take it seriously...

*my mum passed away... so we had some other obligations.

davebb · Feb 18th, 2019, 23:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by R-P

Haven't had time* to replace any of the bought items, and had an hour to kill.

Drove by the Volvo dealer and payed them for 15 minutes of investigating. They drove the car and put it on the ramp/bridge/whatchamacallit_in_English_when_you_jack_up_the_ca r.

He (mechanic) was convinced it was the subframe having too much play and said it should clearly show if you would loosen the bolts and drop it slightly. He did expect it to be a loose bolt, but all subframebolts were torqued (at least) to spec.

If I support the subframe like 50cm from the ground, undo the bolts (and the top-engine-mounts) and lift the rest of the car a few centimeters, I think one should be able to change or at least investigate if they are to blame.

Not convinced, but since this conclusion cost me 30 euro's, I feel obliged to take it seriously...

*my mum passed away... so we had some other obligations.

Hi if the mounts are on the way out, I would try and fit subframe void poly inserts you can get 4 for just over £20, they work very well,
Dave

R-P · Feb 19th, 2019, 09:33

You mean just adding them without replacing the original subframe bushes?

I'll have a look to see if they can be had locally. Thanks!

bkulcsar · Feb 19th, 2019, 09:42

I did this mod a couple of years ago. I can only recommend it. The car stays much better on the road even on the windy Austrian motorways.

ASt85 · Feb 19th, 2019, 11:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by R-P

You mean just adding them without replacing the original subframe bushes?

I'll have a look to see if they can be had locally. Thanks!

The polybushes replace the originals - have a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75-hyIvUCSI

I stand corrected - my thanks to bkulcsar for pointing out my error

bkulcsar · Feb 19th, 2019, 11:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASt85

The polybushes replace the originals - have a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75-hyIvUCSI

No. They do NOT replace the original rubber bushes. They go INTO them. Actually you leave the old bushes be, you just put the poly inserts into them.

davebb · Feb 19th, 2019, 14:56

These are the inserts
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S60...php:rk:25:pf:0

Dave

pierremcalpine · Feb 20th, 2019, 14:26

I can confirm that those poly inserts do correct clonks. I got mine from IPDusa and clonking I was getting on accel is gone.

R-P · Mar 25th, 2019, 19:54

Finally had the time to undo the subframe bolts. (As the PAYED advice from Volvo suggested it was most likely the subframe mounts).

Here are some pics. What seems strange is that 2 out of the 4 have an extra cilinder inside the metal insert of the rubber. This seems attached to the frame of the car and may be needed to guide the subframe to the correct position???

The rubber may not be minty fresh, but it seemed OK. What may appear to be cracks was not really visible as cracks when loading the metal insert with an extension rod. (i.e. I could not twist the inside while the outside stayed in place, thus proving it was an actual crack in the rubber: the whole rubber part just twisted to accomodate the force I excerted on the inner ring)

So once again, I am far from convinced this is my cloncking problem.

To be continued.

Direct link to right-front

Direct link to left front

Direct link to left rear

Direct link to right rear

Jan 27th, 2019, 03:50	#21
ASt85 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 16th, 2024 14:11 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walderslade....Kent	Torque for the standard bolts are Stage 1 - 35 Nm Stage 2 - Angle tighten a further 90° For the rubber cone XC90 wheel bolts it is 50Nm - no further angle stage __________________ The saddest moment is when the one who gave you the best memories....becomes a MEMORY V70 SE 2004 2.3L T5 Geartronic, C70 2005 2.0T Automatic, Sold 2.4l 20 Valve Automatic Torslander Sold 854 GLT 20v Auto

Feb 18th, 2019, 15:20	#22
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	Haven't had time* to replace any of the bought items, and had an hour to kill. Drove by the Volvo dealer and payed them for 15 minutes of investigating. They drove the car and put it on the ramp/bridge/whatchamacallit_in_English_when_you_jack_up_the_ca r. He (mechanic) was convinced it was the subframe having too much play and said it should clearly show if you would loosen the bolts and drop it slightly. He did expect it to be a loose bolt, but all subframebolts were torqued (at least) to spec. If I support the subframe like 50cm from the ground, undo the bolts (and the top-engine-mounts) and lift the rest of the car a few centimeters, I think one should be able to change or at least investigate if they are to blame. Not convinced, but since this conclusion cost me 30 euro's, I feel obliged to take it seriously... my mum passed away... so we had some other obligations. __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; Feb 18th, 2019 at 15:23.*

Feb 19th, 2019, 09:33	#24
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	You mean just adding them without replacing the original subframe bushes? I'll have a look to see if they can be had locally. Thanks! __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; Feb 19th, 2019 at 09:57.

Feb 19th, 2019, 09:42	#25
bkulcsar Member Last Online: Today 07:17 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Transylvania	Poly subframe bushes I did this mod a couple of years ago. I can only recommend it. The car stays much better on the road even on the windy Austrian motorways. __________________ V70 D5 2002 Manual 517.000 km (321.000 miles)

Feb 20th, 2019, 14:26	#29
pierremcalpine Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Canada	I can confirm that those poly inserts do correct clonks. I got mine from IPDusa and clonking I was getting on accel is gone. __________________ 2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides

Feb 19th, 2019, 14:56	#28
davebb Premier Member Last Online: Apr 17th, 2024 19:02 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Emsworth,hants	These are the inserts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-S60...php:rk:25:pf:0 Dave

Mar 25th, 2019, 19:54	#30
R-P Master Member Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Rozenburg NL	Finally had the time to undo the subframe bolts. (As the PAYED advice from Volvo suggested it was most likely the subframe mounts). Here are some pics. What seems strange is that 2 out of the 4 have an extra cilinder inside the metal insert of the rubber. This seems attached to the frame of the car and may be needed to guide the subframe to the correct position??? The rubber may not be minty fresh, but it seemed OK. What may appear to be cracks was not really visible as cracks when loading the metal insert with an extension rod. (i.e. I could not twist the inside while the outside stayed in place, thus proving it was an actual crack in the rubber: the whole rubber part just twisted to accomodate the force I excerted on the inner ring) So once again, I am far from convinced this is my cloncking problem. To be continued. Direct link to right-front Direct link to left front Direct link to left rear Direct link to right rear __________________ Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; Mar 25th, 2019 at 20:04.

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