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1999 Auto V70 Engine Runs Like a Pile of Rocks

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Old Sep 15th, 2012, 13:12   #31
Chris_Rogers
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Also have a look at the last item in this link, maybe worth a look at the relays/fuses.

http://xemodex.com/technologyimprove...-about-the-etm
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 10:28   #32
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Morning fellow enthusiasts!

Thanks for all the feedback so far, which although as yet has proven inconclusive, has at least kept the spirits up. However, i guess i am either headed for the crusher or the local Volvo extorsionists - I wouldn't mind so much if i had an ounce of faith that it could be fixed for a reasonable price but when recently purchasing an engine mount from said dealership was reminded how hit and miss their approach seemed to be - For when i explained the situation they clealy did't have a clue. Which immeadiately reminded me of the last time they serviced it. They were told then how it was gagging while held on the footbrake.....needless to say it returned home with the same fault and they had supposedly never come across such a problem........i'm sure!!! - thanks to Chris for enlightening me, i now know about the footbrake nuetral!

I hope i don't appear rude when i keep shouting out that the car runs almost ok with the temperature sender disconnected as this has the fan running full time - not ideal............Reconnect and the car goes about five miles and then falls appart while at idle - just as, before during and after incorrect gearbox fluid. Hence, once 3 O'clock registers on the dash the gearbox plays up as well.........It all seems like some temperature related problem........like it doesn't boil over but it does get to hot.

Off to catch a bus!
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Old Sep 21st, 2012, 10:02   #33
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Car now virtually dead - such a shame i love the car but it looks like the crusher beckons!!!!!

Any ideas on sensible garage or mechanic in the Portsmouth/Hampshire area????

ATB Pozzouk.
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Old Sep 24th, 2012, 09:51   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrider311271 View Post
first thing to check is all your vacume hoses for splits/holes, when was the last time it was serviced? spark plugs changed? fuel filter changed?

Failing that lot you really need to find some one with Vida Dice who is prepared to diagnose the problem and not just a 5 minute job, but someone who will test the various sensors including ETM
Cheers for the advice, is there anyone in the Portsmouth/Hants area that has Vida Dice - I purchased an Autel unit but it seems seriously limited - perhaps a software problem.

Please Help - Like no Car!

Thanks Pozzouk.
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Old Sep 24th, 2012, 21:29   #35
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Skipped over this thread, so didn't see it mentioned,

Tried disconnecting/cleaning MAF sensor yet? (assuming it has one? i do not know this engine) will cause all manner of running and shifting problems, and often without leaving codes, disconnecting is a crude but often effective way of diagnosis/prove a point.
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Old Sep 25th, 2012, 07:24   #36
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Tried disconnecting/cleaning MAF sensor yet?

Thanks TXC, No I hadn't - I had wondered that too, so before i take it to the gearbox specialists this morning i'll check that out - fingers crossed me and car make the 6mile trip there and back?!?!
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Old Sep 30th, 2012, 13:01   #37
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I now have a box filled with Dextron 6 - as recommended by gearbox specialist in Portsmouth.

They told me to have faith and that the box seemed good (no metal on the magnetic sump plug) and to give it fifty miles - They charged £140 all inc. Compared to the £330 quoted by the local main dealer!!!! (robbers).

All seemed great until the engine reached 3'Oclock on the dash - she immediately started missing gears and within a mile was in limp mode.

Have scanned with my Autel code reader and it is coming up with P0717 and P1618.

Should it be relevant i do have a other codes that show over the past few weeks such as: P0785 P0300 P0716 P1670.

Also a new issue was a buzzy/whistling noise coming from inside the intake box. First off i thought it was the Mass Airflow Intake but it was actually the temperature vacuum tube sucking away on the inside of the box - i switched off and back on and it had stopped???????

Help - No Car.
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Old Sep 30th, 2012, 17:44   #38
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The codes are as below:

P0716 lnput/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid
P1670 = ECM-720A = Immobilizer communication
P1618 means there is a fault code stored in the transmission ECU

It would seem the main problem is a lack if input speed signal to the gearbox ECU, from memory this sensor is coloured blue located at the engine side and towards the of the rear of the autobox.
This thread may help:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ht=input+speed
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Old Sep 30th, 2012, 19:37   #39
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Is this issue the running of the engine? as in, if you get it up to temp it runs awful even when stationary in Neutral?

Disconnecting Temp Sensor resolves issue virtually entirley?

I'm just thinking, by disconnecting the sensor, the car sees infinte resistance or open circuit, so therefore thinks -35 C, yes, you already know that. You are 'telling' the car it's colder, and it is, so....

The car never reaches 'closed loop' because it never sees the correct figure, lets say 65 C for fun.

Without 'closed loop' , it'll never listen to the H02 sensor (Lambda, whatver name you prefer).

I'm thinking if this sensor is stuck 'lean' for example, as soon as we hit 65 C, ECU starts to listen, finds it lean, winds the fuel right up to try and get the sensor to switch correctly, it never switches or responds so the ECU just keeps the fuel addative on max.

Same principles would apply if the sensor is stuck rich, so it would try leaning it off etc Same result, rough running.

A covoluted way of explaining that I don't think its hitting closed loop with the Coolant sensor off, and a duff HO2 sensor would give all these rough running symptoms.

Will not always leave a code, however you can test the HO2 sensor (I'll assume it's a four wire for now), either backprobe the signal wire and get it up to temp, monitor it.
Or if you have live data on your Autel, use that to give you feedback.

Cruising at 70mph may well mask a stuck rich/lean sensor, in fact at higher engine speeds the sensor may begin to switch nicely, then fail miserably with lower gas content to sniff.

Best of all, it's free to test.

Although it would throw a code (which you can clear of course), there's nothing to stop you just disconnecting the HO2 sensor so that signal never gets back to ECU, it may not run perfect like this, but it may prove the point crudley but effectively.


Sorry for essay, but i had to explain as best as poss without confusion, dunno if it worked though lol.

I know you are also concerend about the Autobox, but the crank speed will be slowing down and speeding up randomly on misfire, affecting the shaft speeds, and confusing the box whats being asked of it.

Last edited by TXC; Sep 30th, 2012 at 19:41.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 07:33   #40
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Thanks Chris & TXC

I really think i'm onto it here with your help - firstly the input signal. I guess that could be a dirty connection issue either at the gearbox end or in the ECU??? or failed sensor??? I saw that Gareth took his input sensor out and cleaned it and later replaced it and there was an unresolved question about the part No.

As for the HO2 sensor, that is actually where i started a couple of months back - I replaced the front one and the motor seemed to run great for a couple of days and then started playing up again (ie the irregular random running at idle) so presumed that it had just been a fluke it running ok. Although I never got the P0135 code again.

Incidentally TXC it sure sounds to me that this saga of the rough running is definitely covered in amongst your diagnosis.

Sorry so long you guys, but i guess i have two separate problems here - like the rough running started months ago and the gearbox about six weeks back.

Thanks so much for your input, Pozzouk
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