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Second temp sensor B18D

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Old Dec 12th, 2018, 20:37   #1
adarvasi
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Default Second temp sensor B18D

Hello learned friends,

I would like to install a mechanical temp sensor in addition to the one in the instrument cluster, has anybody done this, and if yes, could you please share the solution.
Thank you
Andres
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Old Dec 13th, 2018, 14:29   #2
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I've not done it but I imagine something like a coupler on the upper radiator hose (much like the kits you get for electric fan conversions where an additional thermostat is spliced into the top hose) for the probe would be the best - hopefully routing the tubing along one of the chassis legs and into the cabin would provide the least amount of strain on the system.

I imagine the movement between the engine and the chassis would eventually be a problem for these sealed systems - minimising this movement seems to me to be the key to success

You'll have to figure out how long the tubing needs to be - I'm not sure if there are folks out there who sell custom lengths - I'm guessing there will probably have to be a carefully looped coil of extra tubing hidden away somewhere (!)

Good luck
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Old Dec 13th, 2018, 17:59   #3
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Why do you want to do this?
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Old Dec 13th, 2018, 20:31   #4
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Thank you very much Arcturus for the information, which I will investigate how to do it.
The reason I want to do it is because I am restoring the PV, and right now none of the instruments in the cluster work. I have a different cluster that I have restored and it will be eventually installed when we get there with the restoration, in the meantime I need to drive the car to get plates, clean the chassis, etc, and I don'y want to drive without a temp gauge.
Of course I can use in the meantime the original location and disconnect the Volvo gauge, but I was thinking of a more permanent solution that will give belt and suspenders.
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Old Dec 14th, 2018, 10:09   #5
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When you say the instruments don't work what exactly do you mean? The temp' gauge works with an ether filled tube, not electric.It is one continuous unit from sensor at rear of cylinder head to gauge.The fuel gauge is electric. If that doesn't work it's usually a bad earth/ground. For your belt and braces you should be able to source a "t" piece which should screw into the head. Don't think that a capillary tube for mechanical gauge would be vert reliable fitted into top rad hose as in my electric rad' fan, it would fluctuate with the opening and closing of 'stat. Specialist workshops are able to sort out the ether tube gauge, but what do I know
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Old Dec 14th, 2018, 13:04   #6
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As George says, the temp gauge works using an ether filled tube. This means the whole gauge, tube, and sender unit is in one piece. If the tube is damaged and the ether leaks out the gauge won't work. Damage is usually caused by twisting the tube when removing the sender from the head. The nut is seperate and mustn't twist the tube during removal. They can be repaired but you will need a specialist to do it which in your case will mean sending it away. Quite expensive, but if repaired properly the gauge is then accurate and reliable. It is possible to have the gauge converted to electrical operation and then an electric sender in the head is used.Cost of repair on conversion is probably about the same being that the conversion guy is in Holland. You should find this useful.
https://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gauge_notes.htm

2 gauges measuring temps from different parts of the engine might cause confusion, just saying......
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Old Dec 14th, 2018, 19:07   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
As George says, the temp gauge works using an ether filled tube. This means the whole gauge, tube, and sender unit is in one piece. If the tube is damaged and the ether leaks out the gauge won't work. Damage is usually caused by twisting the tube when removing the sender from the head. The nut is seperate and mustn't twist the tube during removal. They can be repaired but you will need a specialist to do it which in your case will mean sending it away. Quite expensive, but if repaired properly the gauge is then accurate and reliable. It is possible to have the gauge converted to electrical operation and then an electric sender in the head is used.Cost of repair on conversion is probably about the same being that the conversion guy is in Holland. You should find this useful.
https://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gauge_notes.htm

2 gauges measuring temps from different parts of the engine might cause confusion, just saying......
Thank you Arcturus and Derek,

The temp gauge doesn't work because the ether filled tube was broken before I bought the car, the rest of the lights, the fuel gauge, and many other electrical things don't work because there are broken wires everywhere. The car will be completely rewired.

I have bought and received the temp gauge conversion kit from Holland and will be installed in the restored instrument cluster. I also had the T idea, it will be a matter of finding the T with enough depth to accommodate the sensors, and will get busy on that starting today.

This car looked great at first sight, but then the details start popping out, like somebody had the bright idea of painting the carburetor linkages with silver paint, so, next week I should receive the new parts. However, the engine, transmission, clutch and brakes works perfectly, and the body is in reasonable good shape.

The body restoration shall start early in January.

I sincerely appreciate your views and ideas, have a great weekend
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