Volvo electrics FINALLY sorted

[Nicholas Lewin]

I have to say that there was no evidence of water on the fuseboard on my car - damp maybe especially in the winter becos of where it was located - but no water

The long term issue with the original fuseboard is that fuses 4 & 6 are carrying current all the time that the ignition is on (engine running position) and any poor contact results in heat. Heat causes the nylon to warm and soften and the natural pressure from the phosphor-bronze contacts pushes the contacts apart. Then the contact with the fuse worsens and so the cycle goes on... Skandix's product resolves that

It would be possible to mount the new board with a soft plastic covering - in other words, to cover the board with some plastic bag or similar - just tear off should you need to replace a fuse when out and about, and replace when you have time. Think about it, how often does a fuse actually blow? Very rarely...

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Nicholas Lewin

Think about it, how often does a fuse actually blow? Very rarely...

Think about it, when a fuse does blow, how often does it happen in a convenient place when you are in no hurry? Never ....

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Nicholas Lewin

I have to say that there was no evidence of water on the fuseboard on my car - damp maybe especially in the winter becos of where it was located - but no water

The long term issue with the original fuseboard is that fuses 4 & 6 are carrying current all the time that the ignition is on (engine running position) and any poor contact results in heat. Heat causes the nylon to warm and soften and the natural pressure from the phosphor-bronze contacts pushes the contacts apart. Then the contact with the fuse worsens and so the cycle goes on... Skandix's product resolves that

It would be possible to mount the new board with a soft plastic covering - in other words, to cover the board with some plastic bag or similar - just tear off should you need to replace a fuse when out and about, and replace when you have time. Think about it, how often does a fuse actually blow? Very rarely...

Let us seek better agreement thee and me re these things.

How often does a fuse actually blow.

That is not the question. Ask not that. Ask this. When a fuse and or its contacts do not provide the necessary current. How important or severe is the consequence.

I can call to mind a forum member stuck on a roundabout in dense traffic because of a failure of current to the fuel pump relay.

You and I Nick know a forum member whose 240 was afflicted on a motorway. Thorough cleaning of the fuse board contacts had been insufficient to protect them. The nature of the "ceramic" fuse mut have been relevant. They report benefits from fitting inline blade fuses for numbers 4 and 6.

Damp is, usually, water.

And Clifford's point is self evidently valid that the position is vulnerable to water other than condensation.

The issue with the original fuse board.

Well now.

The main issue so far as I know is, yes, fuses 4 and 6.

Your getting loose &c. contacts narrative reminds me of for example ye olde Austin A40 Somerset. Matchsticks deployed to get the car going. Such happy days long ago. The land of lost content. The 240 fuse board is an improvement.

Particular to the 240 ceramic fuses board the issue is said to be that: Most fuses available have end caps of a metal incompatible with the metal of the fuse board contacts causing corrosion reducing current flow and causing heat. And. Most fuses available are not ceramic bodied so the bodies melt because of the aforesaid heat. No joy.

As for blade fuses. They are I do think better. David, curently posting actively here upstairs in the 240 section, has posted downstairs in the 740 section re a blade fuse that failed. I say yes. Convert to blade fuses. Do not think all issues are cured. Hey ho.

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And now. I am still very interested in the Skandix fix. I can see two advantages over the current final fix of fitting blade fuses in line in place of 4 and 6. However. Quality is essential. I do hope someone will buy a Skandix kit, assess it as best they can and post their observations .... please.


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And now. I am orf to facilitate photographs of rather nice flowers in our small but joint gardens by my wife. Byeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee ...



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P.S. Proper real ceramic fuses with suitable metal end caps are available. Search the forum. But Nick you have a valid sub-point re aged fuse boards. I reckon blade fuses is the way to go. ESPECIALLY re 4 and 6 init ...

P.P.S. I think I remember correctly who made that sub-point, to you i.e. blade fuses are inherently an improvement because of better contacts ...



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