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Guide to replacing all belts/tensioners - mk3 V70 D5

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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 15:14   #1
Semnoz
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Default Guide to replacing all belts/tensioners - mk3 V70 D5

Rather than add to existing posts, I thought I'd do a separate one for the mk3 V70 timing belt as I've got a few useful points to add.

I replaced the timing belt, timing belt tensioner & idler, auxiliary belt & tensioner, and also the air-con compressor belt.

I'll try not to repeat what's already been said in the existing posts, but they should also be read if you're attempting this:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=189294 (aux belt change - on page 3, I've added a couple of links to some very useful YouTube videos)

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=252457 (timing belt change)

It's worth me highlighting how useful SiRobb's YouTube videos are (as referenced above). They're very well explained by someone that clearly knows good mechanical practise

Overall, everything I did is achievable by one person in a day (well, I managed it, so I assume others can too).

This sounds obvious, but make sure you have the right tools. I'd assumed my torque wrench was big enough, but it was only a 220Nm max model. Luckily Halfords do a 300Nm in their 'Professional' range, for £90 and it's quite decent (no-one else in Manchester had anything in stock this big, so good-on Halfords for stocking such items). I'm very glad I bought a crankshaft pulley holding tool, and I was damn lucky to find one in stock locally. Machine Mart had one left in the UK, and it happened to be in their Manchester branch. And you'll need some really small ratchet/sockets, i.e. 1/4" drive, in addition to the big stuff.

And while I'm praising suppliers, I should mention that eBay seller 'volvopartstrade' was helpful and shipped everything next day (all sealed, genuine Volvo parts).

As always with car mechanics, there's always something that isn't mentioned in the Haynes manual that catches you out and adds hours to the job. Main observations:

Timing belt cover.
Front timing belt cover removal and replacement is a real pain due to very long threaded stud used to mount the coolant hose bracket. I had to use a long screwdriver to lever the inside of the cover outwards. As there's almost no clearance, it's very difficult to lever the cover, especially with the added risk of slipping and hitting the timing belt with the tool you're using to lever the cover open. On refitting, this meant it was impossible to align the bottom lip of the front cover so that it fitted inside the rear timing cover. After I finally managed to seat the cover over this threaded stud, I then had to bend the outer timing belt cover lower section and lever the front cover with a screwdriver - not easy when there's no space. After all that bending of the cover, it now doesn't sit entirely flat, so will allow a bit more dust into the timing belt region than normal. If I ever need to remove this front cover again, I plan to cut about 10mm of this threaded stud as it's much longer than necessary.



Engine mounts.
Compared to the mk2 V70, one slight annoyance with the mk3 V70 is that you have to remove the top drive-side engine mounts before you can remove the timing belt front cover. You have to do this twice* (see further below).
Haynes manual was no use at all for this. Luckily the Dayco video I posted recently shows exactly how to do this. It wasn't hard to remove and refit the mounts. You just need to be patient getting the bolts back in while setting the engine height just right using a trolley jack supporting the engine.
After fitting the new belts, tensioners and rollers, it's necessary to run the engine for a few minutes to make sure all the belts are running perfectly true. *Before starting the engine to carry out this observation, it's necessary to refit the engine mounts. Obviously you then need to remove them again to fit the timing belt cover.

Timing belt tensioner.
After I ran the engine for a few minutes after fitting all the new parts, the timing belt tensioner indicator had moved about 10 degrees to the left. It hadn't slipped. I'm going to assume it's just the belt's teeth 'bedding in'. Obviously it was easy to reset the tensioner, but I'm not sure whether I can expect things to bed in further, and whether I should therefore inspect the tensioner indicator (as above, I'm not keen to go through all the faff of removing the timing belt cover/removing engine mounts to inspect this).

Torquing up bolts.
The Haynes manual provides the required torque settings for the tensioner and roller bolts. However, in typical Haynes fashion, it doesn't tell you there's no chance of fitting a torque wrench into the narrow space between chassis and engine. So in my case, I had to 'guess' the torque using my narrower 1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchets.
Regarding the crankshaft pulley nut, my 'claimed' 650Nm impact wrench took about 4 seconds to turn the nut. After about 3 seconds, I was starting to worry, but all was good.
When it came to tightening up, I'd never used my torque wrench on max before (300Nm) and was worried I'd break something before hearing it 'click'. It really did need all my weight on the end of the wrench, which of course isn't quite possible as you can only position the wrench around the 4 o'clock position, inside the wheel arch.

Crankshaft pulley holding tool.
After experiencing just how tight 300Nm is, it became apparent how essential this pulley holding tool is to hold the crankshaft pulley still (you'd really not want all that torque going through the timing belt !). I've seen pictures of it holding itself in place against the chassis, but on the mk3 V70, there isn't any structural member lying perpendicular enough to safely use this tool. Fortunately, if it's positioned around the 8 o'clock position, it's just long enough to hit the underneath of the driveshaft (see photo).



Other essential tools.
Due to very narrow clearance between timing belt tensioner and chassis, I had to modify a 6mm hex key to fit into the tensioner (see photos of tools).
This narrow clearance also meant only a small 1/4" ratchet and sockets could be used to tighten the timing belt tensioner main bolt, and I think also the timing belt idler.
When first checking that the new belts are in place, and to check alignment of crankshaft/cam pulley timing marks, it's necessary to manually turn the engine a number of times. I needed to use a couple of 300mm 1/2" extension bars with the 30mm socket and ratchet, otherwise it wasn't possible to view the camshaft pulley turning at the same time as you're cranking the engine.



Parts used:




I wasn't able to find genuine volvo bolt kits, so had to use the existing crankshaft pulley nut, bolts and the bolts for the timing belt tensioner and idler. The auxiliary tensioner (31330379) came with a new T40 bolt.
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Last edited by Semnoz; Mar 19th, 2017 at 15:41.
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 15:30   #2
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Re your remark about the Haynes Manual in your other post your right ! They are not very good these days and leave a lot out for the V70 and IMO could get the unknowing into trouble .
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Old Mar 19th, 2017, 20:59   #3
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Indeed! Haynes manuals are little more than glorified handbooks these days. I found a number of mistakes and inaccuracies in the manual for the V70 ph3, not least of which is the belt configurations.
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Old Mar 25th, 2017, 12:51   #4
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Default timing belt

just wondering weather or not you have to have the engine "dynamic" timed after the new belt is fitted as was the case with my old 2000 P2 ?
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Old Mar 25th, 2017, 17:35   #5
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I have replaced belts on the P2 and P3 D5 engines and never had them dynamically timed , in fact I don't even know if that's possible ? The Timing wheels are fixed so cant see how any timing can be changed . The early P2 ,2000 to 2002, I believe had a different engine which I have no experience of so don't know .
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Old Nov 16th, 2019, 12:49   #6
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Hi All. My first post on this forum. After 25 years maintaining my Land Rover Disco 1, I am now back to my Volvo roots and learning to live with a transverse engine.
I can thoroughly endorse comments regarding the Haynes Manual. Severe shortcomings with regard to my 2012 V70 D5 mk3. However the Forum threads are really helpful. A seized alternator coupling at 72k miles has drawn me into a Timing/auxiliary belt change, plus all the tensioners and idler. Timing belt change is complete and I am now wondering if it is feasible to remove the alternator without breaking the coolant system integrity. It looks a very tight fit and I can see that the new Aux Tensioner is going to have to come off again to give access to the lower bolt.
By the way, when I came to remove the Timing Belt Cover, the 10mm threaded stud mentioned in the really helpful comments above, screwed out from the engine block and was no longer a problem.
Has anyone removed the Alternator from this engine in-situ? I'm wondering if perhaps I can remove the upper and lower alternator bolts and twist the alternator round to give access to the pulley (I have the extraction kit) without actually removing it from the engine compartment.
Any help and advice will be gratefully received.
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Old May 18th, 2020, 18:36   #7
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Excellent additional comments that prepared me nicely.

Endorse the idiotic stud thing holding the timing case and yes it is easy too long.

Just need to get a holding tool for the pulley.

My air con belt decided to shred itself over the last few days and end up in the timing case. At first I thought it was the timing belt about to go until I took the arch cover out.

On the positive side it explains why my air con isn't working and is probably not a leak.
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Old Jun 1st, 2020, 20:12   #8
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Well, timing belt and aux belt changes done. No issues encountered other than the awkward lack of access. However, if doing it again I'd be miles faster.

On the timing belt tensioner I noticed today that it is dated 2013 but the car registration is March 09. Pulley is dated Dec 08 so this makes me think that previous owner had this tensioner charged when the aux belt was last done at 54k. Based on what I've read this is possibly the new improved version. Anyway, it fills me with confidence that it was well looked after. Means I've a tensioner with only 20k miles on it even though it still looks and feels new.

On the air con side, I had a leaking condenser (corrosion pinholes) and the back seal on the compressor was leaking and the pully bearing was banjaxed. Compressor was an easy swap. Condenser was a pain as it had to be removed with radiator and intercooler as a bundle. Not that difficult and more a PITA.
Between waiting on the parts and the mobile air con man to call and regas, the car has been in my garage for over a week on stands so it was nice today to get the covers and plastic bits all screwed back on and tested. Other than a loose hose clip on an air box pipe, everything seems to be running well.

Just in time for the end of the warm spell!
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Old Jun 9th, 2020, 07:52   #9
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My timing belt was changed by a Volvo main dealer before I bought the car.
I did notice that the timing belt cover is not seated tightly at the top. I'm now wondering whether this is because it's not properly engaged in the lower cover ?
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Old Jun 24th, 2023, 20:13   #10
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Thank you
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