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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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V50 glow plugsViews : 14066 Replies : 21Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 12th, 2012, 08:42 | #11 |
08 Volvo S40 SE Sport R-D
Last Online: May 6th, 2016 23:08
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Location: Gloucester
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This was my argument the other day at work but been told by quite a few different people and places its a wise thing to have done these days?
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Volvo S40 SE Sport R-Design + Winter Pack |
Dec 12th, 2012, 09:52 | #12 | |
Probably Akita's Toyboy..
Last Online: Dec 27th, 2023 22:24
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: A House.
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Quote:
I think the 2.0D only uses them from something like -10. haha. The position on the 2.0D as well is highly prohibitive to changing them, although i can see the point in doing the change for piece of mind get someone else to do it. |
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Jan 7th, 2014, 07:58 | #13 | |
New Member
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Location: Warwickshire
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Quote:
Thanks Maxamplitude |
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Jan 7th, 2014, 09:12 | #14 |
vvvvvvvvv
Last Online: Jan 15th, 2019 15:55
Join Date: Dec 2013
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If you need to change only spark plug nr 3 couting from the battery it works easily with a cardanic cross mounted on a medium ratchet(don't know if that's the name).
http://cdn.allshops.ro/files/clients...238_normal.jpg For the rest you have to remove the EGR and the EGR cooler + pipe to gain access to the plugs, not quite a walk in the park, even with the right tools the space is very narrow bahind the egr. They are ~15cm behind the injectors, pointing to the window wipers They should not be tightened more than 5nm torque |
Jan 7th, 2014, 09:28 | #15 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2016 19:58
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Exmouth
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...
Last edited by SonyVaio; Jan 7th, 2014 at 09:30. |
Jan 13th, 2014, 12:00 | #16 |
Man of many volvos
Last Online: May 20th, 2019 19:04
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: High Wycombe
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I struggled to find the glow plugs on a 2008 V50. They are on the back of the engine, immediately behind the inlet manifold. Peer over and you will see a couple of metal clips that hold the wires to the manifold. If you have a multimeter, it is just possible to find the top of a couple of glow plugs and test for DC resistance. This should be in the order of 1.5 ohms. How easily they can be removed and quite how you get at the others, I'm not sure. Fortunately, mine checked out OK. It seems most starting problems are usually caused by a distorted throttle body as covered in detail on this forum.
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Jan 13th, 2014, 14:50 | #17 |
Member
Last Online: Nov 28th, 2017 15:59
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kent
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I did mine and they are extremely awkward. I had to remove part of the EGR pipe and even then it was tight t get your hands and tools in there.
As said before they are at the back of the engine and you have to do it by feel. There is a small nut (perhaps 8mm or even smaller) on the top of each glow plug that secures the wire that powers them. Remove those first without loosing a nut and your doing OK! Then You have to use the plug remover socket (smaller of the 2 as I remember) with the ?bendy? (sorry I don't know the correct terms) attachment and gently loosen them off. As said before they can be seized and you could end up snapping one off if your not careful which is a world of hurt money wise to get fixed. I was paranoid about this so took my time. If it felt too tight I would have just left it. It took me about an hour just because of the access issues. |
Jan 13th, 2014, 14:53 | #18 |
Member
Last Online: Nov 28th, 2017 15:59
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Location: Kent
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and of course I lost a lot of skin on my knuckles.
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Jan 14th, 2014, 13:19 | #19 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 25th, 2023 07:46
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Rear view of the engine with all EGR components still attached
Rear view without the EGR and EGR cooling pipe .. revealing the glow plugs:
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Volvo S40 2.0D momentum | 100kw/136bph | 2005 | Euro III | 49mpg | Electric silver
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