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Ignition Switch won't go past Position I

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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 21:43   #11
hancym
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RAC man had the Torq drive to undo the plastic and the electrics from the barrel. I'm now on my drive after starting the car with a screwdriver!

Can any one please tell me how to remove the bolts holding the ignition switch to the steering column?
Let me qualify my question. I know they need drilling and then removing with a stud extractor but I can't get the drill in to do it as it fouls on the base of the dashboard just below the clocks.
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 22:45   #12
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Here's a thing. Reading online other car owner VW, BMW etc seem to think that turning with a chisel is more favourable than a stud extractor (that often snaps). Whilst doing so from the lock somewhere - and I know not where as the damn thing seams sealed with no obvious holes- drops a small brass shouldered pin with a hole in the end. The pin is about 3mm diameter and 20mm long. Now the key will turn the lock.

Anyone had one of these apart to tell me what the pin does as the lock now seem to function completely without it!
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Old Jul 16th, 2011, 23:03   #13
Bill Edmondson
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The only pin I can remember was the pin that was actually the steering lock pin.
Worst thing is I can see myself doing the job but for the life of me not the details.
I was living in Spain then in the back of beyond and seemed to know more than my local bmw dealer/engineers lol.

So in answer it sounds like your back in business minus a pin? does the steering still lock?
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 08:58   #14
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STOP !

Before you go chiselling / hacking it off, are you SURE the lock is faulty ?

I'm not sure of the following but offer it on a "just in case" basis ! :

If you're running the Geartronic version, there are elctro-mechanical safety inhibitors, that prevent the key from being turned in different circumstances,
with senors on the Gearshift lever, and the Brake pedal.

e.g. You Can't remove the key unless the Gearbox is in "P", and you can't select a Gear without your foot on the Brake pedal.

I'm not sure but I think if there were a fault with the Gear shift solenoid / sensor, such that the system thought the 'box was NOT in "P" when it was, then this could prevent the key from turning past position "I".

Worth checking first becuase if that IS the problem it will still be there when you fit a new lock !

More info on the Gear select solenoid on this thread : http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...selector+stuck

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Last edited by Coconut; Jul 17th, 2011 at 09:01. Reason: Add link to another thread
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 11:43   #15
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The lock is faulty as the pin fell out of it and it now turns and the car runs.

I've not chiselled the bolts out ready to replace them with nice socket head cap screws. There is only one hole the pin could have come out of and this seems to have something to do with the bolt the lock the steering column. However this was all working fine so I can't see what the pin did. I can only assume also that the pin would be held in by a spring and a cap in the end of the hole both of the latter may have pinged out and be missing. I'm a little apprehensive of putting the lock back as it is despite the fact it all working properly and this pin must have done something. I can't also see how the pin would have jammed the lock either as if the pin is loose then it would sort of, failsafe the lock turn the whole way , as it is now

Last edited by hancym; Jul 17th, 2011 at 11:50.
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 11:51   #16
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Pics of the pin that fell out of the lock
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File Type: jpg DSCF7351.JPG (74.3 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF7350.JPG (72.9 KB, 48 views)
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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 14:38   #17
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hi, just had a look at Vadis and once all the electrics are removed from the switch, it tells you to 'drill out the security screws' and recomends an angle drill. Apparently there is also a cable linkage if your car is an auto(P postion??). It looks like more than a diy job to me.

good luck.

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Old Jul 17th, 2011, 18:35   #18
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Same thing happened with my V70 several years ago, fortunately on my drive at home. Breakdown people couldn't do anything, & the main dealer agreed the breakdown people could recover it to them.

Lock mechanism was replaced under warranty, & I believe the shear-bolts had to be drilled out. Glad I didn't have to try it.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2011, 17:38   #19
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The lock has bee WD40'd but to be honest it has never shown any signs of failure at all.
When did you spray the ign lock with WD40? How much did you put in, and how did you do it?

What is the current status of the lock and switch and how are you starting the vehicle at present?
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Old Jul 22nd, 2011, 19:04   #20
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When did you spray the ign lock with WD40? How much did you put in, and how did you do it?

What is the current status of the lock and switch and how are you starting the vehicle at present?
I sprayed it from the keyhole but now having removed it I lubricated all internal parts with spray grease through the opening that takes the drive release cable.

Lock is back on the car and working PERFECTLY without the bits that fell out. As far as I could deduce, the pin that fell out might have provided a mini dead bolt for the larger bolt the springs into place for the steering lock when the key is removed. Although this is activated it can still be pushed back into the lock. If I'm correct I can only think that this is an extra safety feature of the lock just in case Mr Felon can pop the deadbolt somehow
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