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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Rust below tailgate behind rear bumper - repair panel?Views : 3740 Replies : 20Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 16th, 2017, 20:25 | #11 |
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Can you help us with an update, please, Stephen? And any pictures?
Thanks. |
Oct 16th, 2017, 21:21 | #12 |
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Thank you for asking. I have received the repair panel. I'll try to take and to upload a pic or two.
Getting the repair done is deferred in to early 2018. Stuff descended upon me, as it does. And I don't want to be without the car in the coming couple of months. |
Aug 15th, 2019, 06:19 | #13 |
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Repairing this problem area as I type!
Just thought I'd let you folks know of what can lie beneath these rear panels!
A bit scary. I ordered the original top panel part from Simon Richardson at Brookhouse (very helpful chap) and it arrived here, in Auckland, within a few days. I'd suggest choosing the original panel over the copy for sure. However, when my panel beater (as they're called 'down under!') drilled out the spot welds and removed the top panel, the second and third panels underneath were stuffed. No wonder this was the water / rust trap that it was. The first three photos show the original top panel in place. Doesn't look too bad does it?! The fourth and fifth photos show you what was underneath and if you look closely you can see where panel two and three (the floorpan) 'meet.' You can also see the new top panel part sitting waiting to be patched in. It's going to have to wait a little longer damn it! So I've just reached out to Simon again to see if indeed the 'second' panel is available. You would need to be a very skilled metal worker to create the top panel and somewhat so the second. The third is basically the rear lip of the floorpan and is a more straightforward repair. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed the second panel is available and here are some pictures for reference: |
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Sep 24th, 2019, 13:28 | #14 |
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Hello Simply Simon Roberts
I am Stephen Edwin Roberts. Edwin being my late father's name taken by me at confirmation. Anyways. I have at last found a welder bodyshop panel beater in range of home and taking the concept of this job seriously. I will take print outs of your photographs to him thank you very much. That panel you have is the panel I have got, bought from FRF Volvo dealers. Thanks again. |
Sep 24th, 2019, 19:34 | #15 |
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Those photos are truly excellent. Thank you again. And however I can't really get my head around the full nature of the structure yet. I'm taking those photos to my newly found welder tomorrow. I hope he can explain to me.
I think the garage trade including annual MOT testers don't understand. A tester failed my car on that rust this morning. (I think a second opinion tester will pass it tomorrow morning, that's a different matter see below.) But. The tester who failed it, looked up under the bumper and said get a welder to weld a plate on it....I tried to explain that it is known to go deeper but he wasn't listening. Second opinion tester says NOT anywhere near a point that is subject to MOT rust test. He does agree it must be repaired, and it is in process of being booked in to a welder. P.S. It seems the repair panel is available because: that panel although not the actual problem has to be replaced to do the job, and it is especially difficult for a welder to make that panel. Is that a fair assessment of that aspect? Hey ho. . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Sep 24th, 2019 at 20:46. Reason: P.S. |
Sep 26th, 2019, 12:22 | #16 | |
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Quote:
Well the bodyshop say for my car it is just possible they could cut out and deal with only the rusted area, leaving the original complicated shaped panel in situ. But most likely to cut back to sound metal they will need to use the repair panel. They are a, do not pre judge what we will find body shop. For the actual problem area, they propose a number of pieces be welded in, fabricating new panels would be seriously more money. I'm not a purist. A sound repair done to last is good to go for me. Has anyone found panels 2 or 3 available? Please? . |
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Sep 28th, 2019, 10:29 | #17 |
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I don't think the other two panels are available, unless you're lucky enough to find someone selling new old stock.
It's time consuming, but not too difficult to repair though, because only the top panel is visible once repaired. I repaired this area on Ste Haigh's 240. Instead of recreating the rust-prone triple layer seam, I joined the panels by seam welding and made repair sections to fit accordingly. The end product looks original where visible, but where it's out of sight it will resist corrosion much better and longer than the original spit welded joint. |
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Sep 28th, 2019, 11:20 | #18 |
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Sep 28th, 2019, 17:26 | #19 |
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After purchasing my car (F Reg. 240) I removed all the rear bumpers to Waxoyl- this included the two support bars that pass the bodywork (scaffolding springs to mind!) these had also been separated from the bumper aluminum section treated and put back with gaskets between the steel & aluminum:~ I think that one of the reasons the rear section are prone to rust is that the water runs down the tailgate and through the gap between the trim section & boot.
The design here encourages the water to sit or pool on the metal lip section hidden under the rear bumper (Also pointed out in the repair article) How to resolve? Once the underside of metal work is free of rust then thoroughly Waxoyl or treat with your favorite product out & inner bodywork. Under the black bumper i.e. The part that would normally rest on top of the aluminum support rail slide insert short lengths of plastic approximately 1/8” thick. This will raise the black bumper clear of the under rail just slightly - install the plastic with gaps that will enable water to run away freely should it collect. The outer trim section- normally stainless or all black is drilled at each end and the center- this is screwed directly into the bumper section i.e. through the black cover & aluminum under rail. I used small stainless flanged self-tapping screws that do not look that out of place. The outer edge of the trim section should be sealed against the bumper- you can use self-adhesive “E” draught excluder here. The next part that has to be sealed is the small gap between the bodywork (just under the tailgate) and the screwed down trim section- Windscreen sealer is ideal here as it remains flexible but can be neatly finished. The result is an area that transfers water run off down the tailgate and over the top of the bumper rather that under it and down the hidden parts of the body work. The trim section is still removable after the screws have been taken out and the sealer is easily cleaned off & replaced. Trust it helps. Bob. Last edited by Bob Meadows; Sep 28th, 2019 at 17:30. |
Sep 29th, 2019, 15:53 | #20 |
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John.
Your words and photos show the 3D mega plus jigsaw and plan that I think my local body shop welder was explaining with hand drawn diagrams. I'll show all of that you have posted to him and discuss. Thank you. Bob. I shall sit down on a low stool at the rear bumper with your post printed out and try to grasp the 3D plus jigsaw. Thank you. . |
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