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Rear drivers side wheel - extremely hot

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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 22:12   #21
Balistaff
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Smile Fixed the Seizing Caliper,...for now!

So I've had another fiddle over the weekend and so far I think I've cured it as I've done six trips of 20+ miles, which before would have had the wheel warm and toasty; but now it's as cool as the other three

I took the sliders out of the caliper and moved the caliper off the disk with the flexible brake pipe still attached. I then took the pads out and placed two oak slats in there place, approx 22mm thick in total. Then I pumped the brakes and the caliper's piston moved out to about it's maximum limit, compressing the oak slats. Then I gently pushed back the rubber gator that is around the piston, taking the end of the gator out of the grove around the piston; gently moving the gator back towards the caliper housing. I could then see a little rust and grit, which I cleaned with a soft cloth and a brush normally used for cleaning suede (shoes). The brush has nylon bristles surrounding some metal ones and I tried not to scratch the piston. I rotated the piston using some adjustable plumbing pliers in order to get at all the rust/grit. Finally I used a small clean firm bristled painting brush (similar to an oil painting brush) and dipped it into silicon grease; then pushed this gently under the gator so that when the piston retracts and then pushes out again, there would be plenty of lube.

I then took the brake fluid reservoir cap off and pushed the piston back into the caliper housing. I then put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir and pumped the brakes so that the piston moved out of the Caliper again. I performed this procedure several times making sure that each time the piston came out it was clean and lubed with silicon grease. I replaced the gator into the grove on the piston and put the pads back in and the calliper back on the sliders, making sure there was plenty of silicon grease in the slider housings.

So far so good!

I've got some new pads and will replace in due course. Also purchased a new Caliper, so if the existing one seizes again I can replace and do a full recondition on the existing one. Might change the disks as the drivers side rear is scored and slightly pitted in places; but it did pass the last MOT!

Last edited by Balistaff; Feb 1st, 2017 at 22:26.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2017, 14:32   #22
KAMXC90
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Default Caliper Piston Right or left hand thread?

The beginner question; looking to buy a Brake Piston Wind back Tool, the question is right or left handed piston thread for the XC90?
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Old Nov 3rd, 2017, 17:02   #23
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I believe they are for rear brakes which incorporate the parking brake in the disc caliper. The XC90 does not, there is a separate drum brake inside the disc.

Just push the pistons back by hand or using a g-clamp or vice-grips.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2017, 18:52   #24
Tannaton
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^^^^^ What he said. You do not need one.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2018, 23:59   #25
Balistaff
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Thumbs up Replaced the Caliper & Sorted

Just to say that after another (only) few thousand miles 4 months ago, I checked the pads on the rear and the near side was hardly worn with the offside rear almost worn out again, so I changed the caliper on the offside rear (and pads) and problem solved for good now,...
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Old Jan 24th, 2018, 08:36   #26
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I'm not surprised. If this happens it is usually because there is corrosion between the piston and the caliper, whilst sometimes it can be "freed up" it is usually a temporary solution. Either the caliper needs to be stripped down and overhauled (which is actually quite easy) or replaced - it just a matter of time otherwise.
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Old Jan 24th, 2018, 20:19   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tannaton View Post
I'm not surprised. If this happens it is usually because there is corrosion between the piston and the caliper, whilst sometimes it can be "freed up" it is usually a temporary solution. Either the caliper needs to be stripped down and overhauled (which is actually quite easy) or replaced - it just a matter of time otherwise.
+1
My neighbour had his car on jacks last weekend and was scrubbing his front pistons trying to free the rust causing them to stick in the calipers.
Worked for one braking action only.
After a week of trying he gave up, and ordered a new brake caliper. That will always solve the problem for good.

Unfortunately for him, his parts have to come from the USA over here to Europe, so he's still stuck without an operational vehicle while he waits...
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Old Jan 26th, 2018, 12:23   #28
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Had the same experience over Christmas and also have a 1958 TR3a. got away with a clean and re-grease the sliders
Does it indicate TR owners have good taste or Volvo owners have even better taste!!!!

Live just over the border from Gretna.

06 XC90 D5 SE, 1 owner from new, 77000miles and just fitting towbar to take trailer to pick up my January 1954 TR2.
Best regards
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Old Jan 27th, 2018, 07:03   #29
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.... also have a 1958 TR3a.
Does it indicate TR owners have good taste or Volvo owners have even better taste!!!!

.... just fitting towbar to take trailer to pick up my January 1954 TR2.
Best regards
Rod
Taste? No - you have class, sir!
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Old Oct 19th, 2018, 18:26   #30
Edinburgh101
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Unhappy 2005 S60 D5 94k miles - Hot rear drivers side wheel

Hello,

I have just found this thread and was hoping for some urgent advice. I noticed this morning that my my rear drivers side wheel was radiating heat and a smell of brakes. This was after a short 5 minute trip and to my shame I then realised that my handbrake was not completely off. I released the handbrake fully and thought that was the end of it but i noticed this evening that the wheel was very hot (after a 30 minute drive).

I have no mechanical knowledge and I am due to drive up to a remote area of Scotland tomorrow morning (5 hours drive).

Can someone please help me and tell me what i should do, is it safe, is the worst case scenario just damage to the disk? Sorry for my ignorance.

Thanks a lot.

Gordon
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