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940 auto transmission glitch

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Old Dec 15th, 2017, 17:42   #21
Laird Scooby
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Based on that, i'd say do another 20 miles or so (perhaps to warm the fluid up) then do another part-change, preferably until the pump won't suck anymore out. The sooner you get the majority of that burned fluid out the better!

Then give it another 200 miles or so, another change then 3-400 miles and another change and review things then, you may still want to do another part-change a few hundred miles after that as well.

Certainly sounds very promising though!
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Old Dec 15th, 2017, 22:26   #22
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One things ive read a lot about is the overdrive relay....and its fondness to melt the solder on the connections....would it be worth giving this a check... but if yes, where is it mounted on a 1995 SE? as cant see a white topped relay in the main fuseboard, other than the fuel relay. is there a second relay panel somewhere?
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Old Dec 15th, 2017, 22:41   #23
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Possibly but probably not at this stage - it's gone into overdrive/4th so it has worked and seemingly consistently so far. That continues to point to the fluid being the problem.
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Old Dec 21st, 2017, 18:24   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Don't flush it! Not with nearly 300k miles on it!

Do a "part-change" instead, drain the sump, either by removing the drain plug or using an oil extraction pump (about £15 on ebay and no crawling underneath!) and refill to the correct level using new fluid. I use Carlube ATF-U and have found it's an excellent fluid and suited to the Aisin-Warner box very well.

The first part-change will probably give you an instant improvement, do another in about a months time then another about a month later. This will in effect change all the fluid very gently and get a lot of dirt/contamination out of the box while reducing the risk of blowing seals with new, much thicker, fluid.
It also gives the seal conditioner present in the new fluid time to work which will help the seals much more than flushing it through with umpteen litres of new, thick fluid that could easily blow a weak seal to oblivion.

After the 3 part-changes, do one part-change a year to maintain the service changes at the right interval.
hi dave how does the car lube ATF compare to euro car parts ATF i used theres last time which has the best spec for my ZF auto box as it will be changed in the good weather .i will get 2x 5litres . millers oils do a millermatic oil never used it but only ever put there xfe semi synthetic in my diesel
regards jim
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Old Dec 21st, 2017, 19:28   #25
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That's a very good question Jim - a few years ago i would have said they were the same but not now.

Annoyingly for me, the ECP ATF (equiv to ATF-U) was previously compatible with Honda Z-1 ATF but they changed the formulation and it no longer is, despite what it says on their website.

That may not sound like a big problem for Volvos but the Aisin-Warner boxes that Volvo specify JWS3309 for on later models need a composition of ATF very similar to Z-1, in fact ATF-U covers both Z-1 and JWS3309 and also the later Volvo spec with the long series of digits that i can't remember just now!

With the ZF box in yours, you could get away with Dexron II but when i changed (for the second time, i'd previously used Dex II-D) the ATF on my last 740 that had a ZF box, it was so much smoother on the ATF-U that i've used it ever since in ZF and AW boxes and been rewarded with a quieter, smoother box, better acceleration and economy and a very smooth ride.

I have heard that people who previously used ECPs ATF and subsequently the newer version of it found it didn't change as smoothly and generally felt it wasn't as good. I don't have any hard facts/evidence to back that up though so it's only hearsay.

The Carlube ATF-U covers all my cars for the gearboxes and gives better changes, performance and so on in all of them so i'll stick with it, unless they change it somehow in the future.

It also makes a great PAS fluid, i use a large (250ml) syringe to empty the PAS reservoir then top up with fresh ATF-U, bleed the steering and top up. I do this once a week for 3-4 weeks or until the fluid coming out is clean as and when the fluid starts looking a bit "off colour".

A pint or so usually finds its way into the engine oil as well, it helps keep the engine clean inside, revives the oil seals and quietens things down, especially ticky hydraulic lifters.

As for the Millermatic, i know someone who is doing a long term test on that, early results aren't encouraging though. As such either Carlube ATF-U or Valvoline ATF but the Valvoline is dearer than the ATF-U.
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Old Dec 22nd, 2017, 09:56   #26
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hi dave
i will be useing carelube on my next oil change on what you think . where did you get yours from .regards jim
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Old Dec 22nd, 2017, 09:58   #27
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sorry dave
just seen it on your previous thread
regards jim
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Old Dec 22nd, 2017, 12:01   #28
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Quote:
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hi dave
i will be useing carelube on my next oil change on what you think . where did you get yours from .regards jim
Ebay is usually the best price Jim :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-A...QAAOSwBEpZpY7F

I have bought it from GSF in the past but only when they have one of their 55% off promos and also their site keeps trying to tell me it's the wrong fluid
for any of my cars insisting on trying to sell me something called "Dextron" instead.
Considering they aren't even spelling the name of the fluid they recommend correctly (should be Dexron!) and Dexron would kill two of my gearboxes in very short order, i usually avoid them.



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sorry dave
just seen it on your previous thread
regards jim
No worries Jim!
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Old Dec 24th, 2017, 16:59   #29
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Dave,

Just doing my pre Xmas workshop clear up (keep me out of all the mayhem) I found some of the attached, would this be the old stuff that they have now changed the spec on ????
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Old Dec 24th, 2017, 18:34   #30
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Dave,

Just doing my pre Xmas workshop clear up (keep me out of all the mayhem) I found some of the attached, would this be the old stuff that they have now changed the spec on ????
Certainly looks like it Simon! Are you planning an ATF change?
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