Electrical problem 940

[aardvarkash10]

Damn boy! Nice place to self-isolate, tough for getting parts...

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

Damn boy! Nice place to self-isolate, tough for getting parts...

Getting parts is hard yup. Still worth it 👍🏻
That noid light is now my only hope

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

US Virgin Islands

No wonder it's going to take 2 weeks to get to you!

What are your electronic skills like and do you have any high brightness LEDs and 680 Ohm resistors? Or anything close?

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

No wonder it's going to take 2 weeks to get to you!

What are your electronic skills like and do you have any high brightness LEDs and 680 Ohm resistors? Or anything close?

It’s not my strongest side. I would say. I wouldn’t know what I was doing with that resistor😆
If that 680 ohm is for injectors like you wrote earlier I think? I understand ohms law.
But I’m not on you guys level of knowledge

Soldering stuff, aslong as it’s not on a motherboard. What would you like me to try next! I’m very grateful for having you guys

I don’t have any led lights.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

It’s not my strongest side. I would say. I wouldn’t know what I was doing with that resistor😆
If that 680 ohm is for injectors like you wrote earlier I think? I understand ohms law.
But I’m not on you guys level of knowledge

Soldering stuff, aslong as it’s not on a motherboard. What would you like me to try next! I’m very grateful for having you guys

I don’t have any led lights.

If you don't have any LEDs then the resistor won't be needed either. My idea was to make a very basic NOID light to save you waiting. Wouldn't have been as easy to use and view as a ready-made one but would have given you results.

I've got a few ideas Ash, which way do you want to go next on this one?

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you don't have any LEDs then the resistor won't be needed either. My idea was to make a very basic NOID light to save you waiting. Wouldn't have been as easy to use and view as a ready-made one but would have given you results.

I've got a few ideas Ash, which way do you want to go next on this one?

Sun is shining. Car is whining. Car has been playing like this for 4 months

what would you recommend me to check and look after?
Is it possible to loop some sensors? Tachometer gets signal from the coil right? And that ground lead from the coil goes through the fender and behind the headlight? I have two ground connections behind each headlight that I haven’t touched. They seem corroded. But I have used a lead from negative to ground.

I don’t change parts that I haven’t tested if it functions. I’m not cheap. I can buy everything that it needs.

I don’t know what to look after, it makes no sense for me to look after things that I do not know how to. Without you guys explanation.
You guys are my eyes 👀

[nutco]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Sun is shining. Car is whining. Car has been playing like this for 4 months

what would you recommend me to check and look after?
Is it possible to loop some sensors? Tachometer gets signal from the coil right? And that ground lead from the coil goes through the fender and behind the headlight? I have two ground connections behind each headlight that I haven’t touched. They seem corroded. But I have used a lead from negative to ground.

I don’t change parts that I haven’t tested if it functions. I’m not cheap. I can buy everything that it needs.

I don’t know what to look after, it makes no sense for me to look after things that I do not know how to. Without you guys explanation.
You guys are my eyes 👀

I know Dave is not keen on this but just take off the wiring plug to the temp sensor for the ECU, start it up and see what happens after it has warmed up, does it still act the same as before

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ammorack

Sun is shining. Car is whining. Car has been playing like this for 4 months

what would you recommend me to check and look after?
Is it possible to loop some sensors? Tachometer gets signal from the coil right? And that ground lead from the coil goes through the fender and behind the headlight? I have two ground connections behind each headlight that I haven’t touched. They seem corroded. But I have used a lead from negative to ground.

I don’t change parts that I haven’t tested if it functions. I’m not cheap. I can buy everything that it needs.

I don’t know what to look after, it makes no sense for me to look after things that I do not know how to. Without you guys explanation.
You guys are my eyes 👀

Do your headlights and indicators work as they should? If so no need to touch those earth points near the headlights.

It's not an earth (ground) lead from the coil, that's the trigger wire that goes to the ignition amplifier module on the left hand inner wing, behind the headlight. Your air filter box is probably hiding the ignition amp though.

Originally Posted by nutco

I know Dave is not keen on this but just take off the wiring plug to the temp sensor for the ECU, start it up and see what happens after it has warmed up, does it still act the same as before

With the lack of anything else to try until that NOID light arrives, it's worth a try. The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) is underneath the inlet manifold about halfway along just under where #2 and #3 inlet tracts meet the head. Squeeze the wire clip in and pull the plug off.

However i should point out this is NOT a definitive test for the CTS being defective but might indicate it bears further investigation.

Do you have a multimeter Ammo?

[Ammorack]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Do your headlights and indicators work as they should? If so no need to touch those earth points near the headlights.

It's not an earth (ground) lead from the coil, that's the trigger wire that goes to the ignition amplifier module on the left hand inner wing, behind the headlight. Your air filter box is probably hiding the ignition amp though.





With the lack of anything else to try until that NOID light arrives, it's worth a try. The CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) is underneath the inlet manifold about halfway along just under where #2 and #3 inlet tracts meet the head. Squeeze the wire clip in and pull the plug off.

However i should point out this is NOT a definitive test for the CTS being defective but might indicate it bears further investigation.

Do you have a multimeter Ammo?

I’ll try to unplug that CTS and see what happens. I have a multimeter yes.
Lights works as they should.

[Ammorack]

Didnt start when unplugged.