Rear axle pinion flange nut - Page 2

Clan · Mar 20th, 2020, 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by niveketak

Yes jävla jävel apparently

Im glad i caught you before you removed the nut .... You MUST mark the nut before you remove it so you can put it back in exactly the same place + half a flat more .... the nut controls the pinion bearing preload , so over tighten it and the bearings are overloaded .

niveketak · Mar 20th, 2020, 22:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

Im glad i caught you before you removed the nut .... You MUST mark the nut before you remove it so you can put it back in exactly the same place + half a flat more .... the nut controls the pinion bearing preload , so over tighten it and the bearings are overloaded .

Thanks for that will do.

Bob Meadows · Mar 21st, 2020, 08:42

Bit of a long shot I suppose:~ maybe someone has been there before and used loctite or similar?

You could try heat to break the thread seal- YOU DON'T NEED A LOT to breakdown the same.
Bob

niveketak · Mar 21st, 2020, 08:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Bit of a long shot I suppose:~ maybe someone has been there before and used loctite or similar?

You could try heat to break the thread seal- YOU DON'T NEED A LOT to breakdown the same.
Bob

Hard to tell but in any case I dont have access to oxy acetylene where I am, going to have another go with fresh muscles today.

Bob Meadows · Mar 21st, 2020, 09:04

Oxy equipment would be far too hot! I just use a standard plumbing type gas/camping torch:~ just get it hot not cooked.

Good luck

niveketak · Mar 21st, 2020, 12:23

I do have one of those will give that a try, failed miserably again this morning.

arcturus · Mar 21st, 2020, 13:32

Not sure exactly where the nut is located but if it's accessible you could try one of these,they come in all sizes. Worked for me in a different situation
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-Slog...72.m2749.l2649

Derek UK · Mar 21st, 2020, 13:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

Im glad i caught you before you removed the nut .... You MUST mark the nut before you remove it so you can put it back in exactly the same place + half a flat more .... the nut controls the pinion bearing preload , so over tighten it and the bearings are overloaded .

I would query that. The pinion pre load is set by torqueing the nut. It should be 200-220 ft/lbs and that's it. The position of the nut is what it is. It can go back on it's thread how it likes. You can mark up the nut if you like and it may end up close to what it was but it is the torque setting that is important.

NK. If you are able to get a breaker bar on the nut and use a length of scaffold pipe at the side of the car that would be you best bet. You will have only a small angle to play with and you'll get some flex to reduce that even more but hopefully you can get the nut started. Don't be tempted to use a ratchet until the nut is on the move!

niveketak · Mar 21st, 2020, 15:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcturus

Not sure exactly where the nut is located but if it's accessible you could try one of these,they come in all sizes. Worked for me in a different situation
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-Slog...72.m2749.l2649

Its deep inside a flange so no chance with one of those I'm afraid

Underdrive · Mar 22nd, 2020, 09:06

As Derek has said a breaker bar is best strong tool to use with an extension tube, a 3/4" drive preferably and an impact socket. You say you are struggling with your own strength so use the weight of the car by jacking up as far as you can and fit the bar, tube and socket so that the end is as close to the floor as possible(on the left-hand side) and gently lower the car. This will hopefully be sufficient leverage to loosen the nut.

Mar 21st, 2020, 13:32	#17
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Yesterday 07:31 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Not sure exactly where the nut is located but if it's accessible you could try one of these,they come in all sizes. Worked for me in a different situation https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-Slog...72.m2749.l2649 __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Mar 21st, 2020, 08:42	#13
Bob Meadows Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 19:18 Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE	Bit of a long shot I suppose:~ maybe someone has been there before and used loctite or similar? You could try heat to break the thread seal- YOU DON'T NEED A LOT to breakdown the same. Bob

Mar 21st, 2020, 09:04	#15
Bob Meadows Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 19:18 Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE	Oxy equipment would be far too hot! I just use a standard plumbing type gas/camping torch:~ just get it hot not cooked. Good luck

Mar 21st, 2020, 12:23	#16
niveketak 66 Amazon Last Online: Jun 14th, 2022 16:45 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Piegut Pluviers	I do have one of those will give that a try, failed miserably again this morning.

Mar 22nd, 2020, 09:06	#20
Underdrive Senior Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 10:10 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stranraer	As Derek has said a breaker bar is best strong tool to use with an extension tube, a 3/4" drive preferably and an impact socket. You say you are struggling with your own strength so use the weight of the car by jacking up as far as you can and fit the bar, tube and socket so that the end is as close to the floor as possible(on the left-hand side) and gently lower the car. This will hopefully be sufficient leverage to loosen the nut.

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