340 1.7 Carburettor Conversion?

My Dad has had his 1987 340 1.7 GL from new, but since it was about ten years old he has had lots of carburettor trouble. Problems include not starting at all, unstable idle (3000 rpm) and so on.

Tha carb has been cleaned and rebuilt several times in the last 5 years.

At its last service the mechanic (independent Volvo specialists of good repute near Banbury) suggested not a new carb but a "conversion kit" which could cost GBP 200 - 600, which would use a carb of a different type as the 1.7 engine has a troublesome carb and this is almost universal.

Does anyone know about this idea? Does it work? Have you had it done?

My dad is getting a price for this as his car has only done 40,000 miles and apart from 3 small rust spots, is in BKV condition. Indeed it has never been dirty, ever. Also he is 82 and doesn't want to spend thousands replacing such a nice car (except it doesn't always go)

[pettaw]

the carb base plate has probably warped and the inlet manifold flange has probably warped slightly as well, and allowing air leaks into the combustion mixture.

I would replace the carb with another Solex, the original lasted 10 years, the replacement will too. I think from memory the carb model is Solex, E13463, but check that. Buy it direct from Webcon. Cost a few years back was 242+vat but has probably gone up. That was also for a late model with the electronic pre-heater. Your one might have a water preheater. Erm, there should be a label on the Carb body somewhere, if the people who rebuilt it haven't removed it with Solex, 28-34 and an E or S code.

If the inlet manifold flange is warped (check with a straight edge) stuff a greasy cloth down the holey and simply file flat carefully, polish with fine grade wet/dry or glass paper. The cloth in the holey is to catch any metallic filings. Metal and valves don't mix :)

I wouldn't go with the conversions. The car was designed with that carb, and it should have that carb.

Andy

Good luck with it.

I can be difficult to straighten the manifold flange, needing the studs to be removed. Possibly easier is to find a straight one in a scrappy, the ones that have made it to being straight in old age are more likely to stay thay way. I have thought it might be due variations in the casting of the manifold.

[JOHN 850]

Try replacing the inlet/outlet manifold gasket. I had similar probs thinking it was the car, but ended being bad airleaks. Also, make sure that all the nuts for the manifold are on (2 were missing on mine) and that they are all tight !

Cheers,

John.

Thanks for the replies.

The manifold has already been straightened (apparently). My dad is asking his garage to stick a new carb on as suggested. (It's still loads cheaper than replacing an otherwise beautiful car).

Is gasket sealant any use in the warped manifold situation?

I ask this because my own car exhibits the "starts and runs fine but if you switch off and leave it 15 minutes its awful but then is fine after 5 minutes running" thing which I suspect is down to thermal expansion somewhere making an air leak badly worse (an air leak which manifests itself as rough running on light throttle about 2500 rpm? (idles OK because I adjusted the idle mixture)(BTW mine's a 1991 1.4)