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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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What did you do to your x40 today???Views : 1058288 Replies : 12937Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 18th, 2017, 04:33 | #12341 |
Non Fragile
Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 06:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chadderton, Oldham
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Engine started today! It revealed another fuel leak, so I only ran it for ten minutes or so and pretended not to notice. By the time I switched off, it had reached normal temperature and it's hydraulic lifters had replenished and had ceased rattling after their long rest.
Problem. The P1 lambda sensor plugs into one of several sockets mounted above the engine attached to the front bulkhead, just below the scuttle. The one in the P1. 5 exhaust I've fitted has a shorter cable, normally taking a route into the cabin through a rubber grommet in the floor. And it's plug is different. Removing it has so far been impossible, and it's probably in better condition than the older one, so I will have to do some splicing. Front panel is painted. At least, the front edge of it is. At some point in the future I'd like to paint the rear surfaces, but it'll have to wait for now. Just a slathering of underseal and the bumper can go back on. I have decided to fix the hole in the front wing by filling the cavity with squirty expanding foam. I could plate it. But that'd still need finishing with filler anyway, and a new wing will need painting anyway, so this will be the economic option both in terms of finance and effort. I think the foam will also prevent the wheel spray too. Through the hole it is easy to see why they all rust there, there is a gap the size of a fist between the hull and the plastic shield. Wheel spray is thus not prevented at all, and the wing and bodywork (and especially the little bracket attaching the two) receive the full brunt of the weather! From inside the wheel arch this gap is far less obvious, but it would be worth plugging it, and I think squirty foam will achieve this admirably, as well as compensating the loss of the little bracket which has rusted completely through and is serving no purpose. The foam will surround it remaining stubs, thus reattaching the wing. The rear wheel arch is filled, rubbed down and in primer, finished that late last night. I want to spray the underside with black shutz right round to the sills. After that the sill covers can go back on. Plasti-kote is great on the plastics, ultimately I will revitalise them all. The black looks far better than the grey, and immensely better than the dull faded grey they are right now. I've already done this to the rear bumper, and the black matches the deep metallic green paintwork splendidly. Sigh. Still lots to do, but significant progress has been made. |
Nov 18th, 2017, 10:14 | #12342 | |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 17:07
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Warrington
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Quote:
The really annoying one there is 006 which isn't even testable. There's no amber front facing marker lamps to test. Assume he means the side markers which aren't testable items on a car. (Trust me, they are not. The test refers to the sticking out markers you get on a van that you can see from the front & rear.)
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baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop |
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Nov 18th, 2017, 10:24 | #12343 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 24th, 2023 09:58
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Lincoln
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Quote:
I failed my last test on "Offside obligatory indirect vision device missing (8.1.1)" because my car had no drivers side sun visor. Complete bullocks, because I believe the code refers to mirrors not visors, but easier to just replace it than argue about it.
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'02 (51) silver Volvo S40 1.9D - RIP (Turbo) '02 (52) blue Volvo V40 1.8 - RIP (Head Gasket) '04 (54) blue Volvo S40 1.9D Sport - RIP (RTA) '18 (68) silver Volvo V40 T3 R Design |
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Nov 19th, 2017, 23:54 | #12344 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Feb 14th, 2021 12:50
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Penrith, cumbria
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Quote:
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2002 V40 T4 17" Arcadia's ,Boost Gauge ,Forge Dump Valve And Blanking Plate ,Front Upper Strut Brace |
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Nov 19th, 2017, 23:57 | #12345 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Feb 14th, 2021 12:50
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Penrith, cumbria
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Quote:
The car has been stood for almost 2 years without being started so it certainly needs a good blast to blow out the cobwebs
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2002 V40 T4 17" Arcadia's ,Boost Gauge ,Forge Dump Valve And Blanking Plate ,Front Upper Strut Brace |
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Nov 23rd, 2017, 14:51 | #12346 |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 17:07
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Warrington
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Yep. Best advice I ever had about diesel MoT was to drive it around for half an hour before taking it in. Early morning MoT is a risky business!
The other good tip was Comma anti-smoke additive for old diesels
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baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop |
Nov 23rd, 2017, 14:55 | #12347 | |
moshmobile driver
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2023 17:07
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Warrington
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Quote:
Try Vaseline instead of WD40 on the rubber Or if mine hits 300k first 😉 Bum, I've got 2 spare! We could have clubbed together and found another one
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baldmosher™ Drives: 63 V60 R-Design Lux Nav P* 106K Kill List: 07 S40 SE Sport D5 120K V40 SLux 1.9D 306K V40 S 1.9D 152K VW T4 LDV Pilot Golf GL 1.9TD Saxo 1.1i Fiesta 1.0 Pop Last edited by baldmosher; Nov 23rd, 2017 at 15:00. |
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Nov 23rd, 2017, 17:58 | #12348 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:42
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton
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Vaseline and rubber are not good bedfellows. You need silicone lube with rubber - as every testosterone charged lad should know.
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2001 V40 2.0lt Sport lux - Daily Driver. 174k miles. 2003 C70 2.4 GT Convertible - Garage Queen. 65k miles. http://www.neptuno6benagil.com |
Nov 27th, 2017, 12:22 | #12349 |
No I'm not the redhead
Last Online: Nov 25th, 2022 10:49
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Yorkshire Coast
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Washed it. Can't figure out which corner is knocking so going to replace all 4 droplinks and see if it still knocks. Also sick of the factory boost solenoid things so was going to see about fitting a MAC one instead which will last longer. Maybe.....
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Nov 27th, 2017, 21:29 | #12350 |
Non Fragile
Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 06:46
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chadderton, Oldham
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After painting the rear control arms, today (beneath a tarpaulin stretched over the car and persistent showers of rain) I fitted them, and the anti-roll bar.
The underside is starting to look better than the top! I also attached the handbrake cables, a bit of fettling was necessary because they are both nearside cables some some brackets needed reversing. I made an attempt at the ABS cables. These are clearly an afterthought during design, evidenced by the six (count 'em!) little brackets which guide them along the trailing arms. Utterly confused, I decided to call it a day, the gusting wind and flapping tarpaulin having sapped my energy and demoralised by the rain. Does anyone have a diagram for how all these ABS brackets attach? I just can't figure it out. Although they're beautifully painted. |
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bacont4, bananahammock, mp3, mp3s, rubbisht4s, uttergarbage |
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