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What did you do to your x40 today???

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Old Nov 18th, 2017, 04:33   #12341
canis
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Engine started today! It revealed another fuel leak, so I only ran it for ten minutes or so and pretended not to notice. By the time I switched off, it had reached normal temperature and it's hydraulic lifters had replenished and had ceased rattling after their long rest.

Problem. The P1 lambda sensor plugs into one of several sockets mounted above the engine attached to the front bulkhead, just below the scuttle. The one in the P1. 5 exhaust I've fitted has a shorter cable, normally taking a route into the cabin through a rubber grommet in the floor. And it's plug is different. Removing it has so far been impossible, and it's probably in better condition than the older one, so I will have to do some splicing.

Front panel is painted. At least, the front edge of it is. At some point in the future I'd like to paint the rear surfaces, but it'll have to wait for now. Just a slathering of underseal and the bumper can go back on.

I have decided to fix the hole in the front wing by filling the cavity with squirty expanding foam. I could plate it. But that'd still need finishing with filler anyway, and a new wing will need painting anyway, so this will be the economic option both in terms of finance and effort. I think the foam will also prevent the wheel spray too. Through the hole it is easy to see why they all rust there, there is a gap the size of a fist between the hull and the plastic shield. Wheel spray is thus not prevented at all, and the wing and bodywork (and especially the little bracket attaching the two) receive the full brunt of the weather! From inside the wheel arch this gap is far less obvious, but it would be worth plugging it, and I think squirty foam will achieve this admirably, as well as compensating the loss of the little bracket which has rusted completely through and is serving no purpose. The foam will surround it remaining stubs, thus reattaching the wing.

The rear wheel arch is filled, rubbed down and in primer, finished that late last night. I want to spray the underside with black shutz right round to the sills. After that the sill covers can go back on. Plasti-kote is great on the plastics, ultimately I will revitalise them all. The black looks far better than the grey, and immensely better than the dull faded grey they are right now. I've already done this to the rear bumper, and the black matches the deep metallic green paintwork splendidly.

Sigh. Still lots to do, but significant progress has been made.
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Old Nov 18th, 2017, 10:14   #12342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazO2V40T4 View Post
That's not too horrendous, I'm assuming £150 for brake pipes fluid and bleed, coil spring is the annoying one but £60 a pair of complete matched legs from a breaker and maybe 2 hours labour to swap? I assume emissions is the lambda sensor or just not being driven hard for a good while?

The really annoying one there is 006 which isn't even testable. There's no amber front facing marker lamps to test. Assume he means the side markers which aren't testable items on a car. (Trust me, they are not. The test refers to the sticking out markers you get on a van that you can see from the front & rear.)
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Old Nov 18th, 2017, 10:24   #12343
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Originally Posted by baldmosher View Post
The really annoying one there is 006 which isn't even testable. There's no amber front facing marker lamps to test. Assume he means the side markers which aren't testable items on a car. (Trust me, they are not. The test refers to the sticking out markers you get on a van that you can see from the front & rear.)
Annoying, but if they just need bulbs then probably easier to replace than argue the toss with the tester.

I failed my last test on "Offside obligatory indirect vision device missing (8.1.1)" because my car had no drivers side sun visor. Complete bullocks, because I believe the code refers to mirrors not visors, but easier to just replace it than argue about it.
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Old Nov 19th, 2017, 23:54   #12344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldmosher View Post
That's not too horrendous, I'm assuming £150 for brake pipes fluid and bleed, coil spring is the annoying one but £60 a pair of complete matched legs from a breaker and maybe 2 hours labour to swap? I assume emissions is the lambda sensor or just not being driven hard for a good while?

The really annoying one there is 006 which isn't even testable. There's no amber front facing marker lamps to test. Assume he means the side markers which aren't testable items on a car. (Trust me, they are not. The test refers to the sticking out markers you get on a van that you can see from the front & rear.)
The jobs are all easy repairs but I had no space or off-road parking to work in which is why initially it had to go but I have since managed to get the car recovered to a private car park and I am just waiting for a pipe flairing tool for me to start working on it so it might just be saved after all
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Old Nov 19th, 2017, 23:57   #12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldmosher View Post
That's not too horrendous, I'm assuming £150 for brake pipes fluid and bleed, coil spring is the annoying one but £60 a pair of complete matched legs from a breaker and maybe 2 hours labour to swap? I assume emissions is the lambda sensor or just not being driven hard for a good while?

The really annoying one there is 006 which isn't even testable. There's no amber front facing marker lamps to test. Assume he means the side markers which aren't testable items on a car. (Trust me, they are not. The test refers to the sticking out markers you get on a van that you can see from the front & rear.)
As for the emissions they tried it again after warming it up properly and it passed so that’s one less job to sort out

The car has been stood for almost 2 years without being started so it certainly needs a good blast to blow out the cobwebs
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 14:51   #12346
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Yep. Best advice I ever had about diesel MoT was to drive it around for half an hour before taking it in. Early morning MoT is a risky business!

The other good tip was Comma anti-smoke additive for old diesels
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 14:55   #12347
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Originally Posted by clarkey1984 View Post
This morning, the first sub zero one this year here, i remembered one reason why i hate my car in the winter time, drivers door, no, frozen shut, passengers door, same, drivers rear, probably would have gone but my sons child seat is in the way, so passenger rear door, then clamber through, marvelous. I have used some wd40 on the drivers door rubber now, as a temporary measure until i can find some silicone spray, im sure we have some at work.

I also remembered one reason why i love my car in the winter today as well, 18 years old, approaching 183 thousand miles, heated seats still work faultlessly.
Lucky you, mine stopped working!

Try Vaseline instead of WD40 on the rubber

Quote:
Originally Posted by canis View Post
Clarkey, I wonder which of our cars will reach 200,000 first?
Or if mine hits 300k first 😉

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Originally Posted by GaryS40 View Post
Scrapped my spare Crater alloy and as new tyre, as nobody wanted it.
Sold the other 4 some time ago, when I got my Arcadias.
Bum, I've got 2 spare! We could have clubbed together and found another one

Last edited by baldmosher; Nov 23rd, 2017 at 15:00.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 17:58   #12348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldmosher View Post
Try Vaseline instead of WD40 on the rubber
Vaseline and rubber are not good bedfellows. You need silicone lube with rubber - as every testosterone charged lad should know.
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Old Nov 27th, 2017, 12:22   #12349
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Washed it. Can't figure out which corner is knocking so going to replace all 4 droplinks and see if it still knocks. Also sick of the factory boost solenoid things so was going to see about fitting a MAC one instead which will last longer. Maybe.....
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Old Nov 27th, 2017, 21:29   #12350
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After painting the rear control arms, today (beneath a tarpaulin stretched over the car and persistent showers of rain) I fitted them, and the anti-roll bar.

The underside is starting to look better than the top! I also attached the handbrake cables, a bit of fettling was necessary because they are both nearside cables some some brackets needed reversing.

I made an attempt at the ABS cables. These are clearly an afterthought during design, evidenced by the six (count 'em!) little brackets which guide them along the trailing arms. Utterly confused, I decided to call it a day, the gusting wind and flapping tarpaulin having sapped my energy and demoralised by the rain.

Does anyone have a diagram for how all these ABS brackets attach? I just can't figure it out. Although they're beautifully painted.
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