S60 front end clunk

[McGandalf]

Hi,

I know these forums are riddled with people complaining about various creaks, knocks etc on their S60s, but I'm getting increasingly frustrated with mine, I suspect it will only get worse, and I hope someone who actually knows what they're talking about can help!

I have an annoying intermittent clunk which seems to come from the front end suspension area of my 2005 Volvo S60 D5 (90,000 miles). This is only noticeable at low speeds (under 30 mph), on all types of surfaces (i.e. the very smooth road outside my house). I notice it both when moving over a mild bump (e.g. the lowered kerb to access my driveway), and on the flat/smooth surface when I knock the steering wheel slightly (i.e. not on full lock). It is a single dull clunk - it doesn't have an obvious metallic ringing sound, it isn't a staccato 'click' and it isn't repeated. It doesn't happen immediately when I move forwards/backwards - I have to drive a few metres before I notice it. So far I have considered:

1. Anti-rollbar drop links - replaced droplinks on all 4 corners with Meyle links. I tightened these up the best I could (although it's difficult to establish a proper counterhold, even with a thin bicycle 16mm spanner).
2. Exhaust brackets - the middle had rusted away so I replaced it. The rear bracket looks fine for the time being.
3. Driveshaft bolts - I'd expect a 'click'/'ping', and I have more of a 'clunk'. I know this is subjective! I'd also expect to hear this immediately upon moving forwards/backwards - the car has to have rolled a few metres before I hear the noise.
4. CV joint - I don't hear the noise on full lock, and it isn't a repeated clicking.
5. Track rod (inner/outer) - could this be it?
6. Front shock absorbers/shock absorber top mounts - I'm assuming these haven't been changed for the lifespan of the car. A visual inspection of the top mounts under the bonnet suggests the top mounts are pretty solid.
7. Top engine mount - although there is a very small amount of lateral play here, the rubber looks relatively sold (one minor crack appearing which may get worse), and I don't feel any noticeable vibration, just the dull clunk.
8. Lower gearbox torque mount - I replaced this with a brand new genuine Volvo torque mount.
9. Front coil springs - a visual inspection reveals they are pretty solid.
10. Ball joints?
11. Wishbone bushes? One wishbone was replaced at about 65,000 miles. I didn't replace the other one as the mechanic suggested it looked ok. I appreciate you should really replace these in pairs.

Any ideas, Volvo Club? Thanks in advance.

[oragex]

Hard to tell for sure. Spring mounts can be inspected by looking inside the engine bay while asking a helper to turn the steering left then right

Which brand the recent wishbone? Rear bushing may dislodge under the rubber without visible signs. Most brand dont last 2 years.

Stick with Sachs and Lemforder

Rear parking shoes are known to fail and clunk, but less likely

[MarvinMitt]

Hello!

I had a similar clunk in my 2002 V70 that nobody (including going to MOT for a test) could locate and finally I inspected the subframe bushes and one was so bad the whole subframe was shifting. The symptoms also included loose steering on highway speeds, like not feeling so sure about cornering at fast speeds.
I could really tell that one was very bad because the rubber edge visible between the lower washer and subframe was visibly deteriorated.

Also if I remember correctly from these forums, the Meyle drop links have to be installed correctly into the ARB and strut or they will clunk? Maybe someone can correct me?

[McGandalf]

Originally Posted by oragex

Hard to tell for sure. Spring mounts can be inspected by looking inside the engine bay while asking a helper to turn the steering left then right

Which brand the recent wishbone? Rear bushing may dislodge under the rubber without visible signs. Most brand dont last 2 years.

Stick with Sachs and Lemforder

Rear parking shoes are known to fail and clunk, but less likely

Thanks for this.

Spring mounts - I hadn't thought about. Where specifically do I look in the engine bay while I get the Mrs to turn the steering wheel?

Wishbone - replaced 3 years ago. Sadly I'm not sure of the actual brand as these were the days when I still used garages, and they ordered it and fitted it without being so kind as to give me the empty box. I will jack the car up this weekend and inspect the wishbone bushes. If I need to replace for piece of mind, I will.

Rear parking shoes - these were replaced (genuine Volvo) 2 years ago. No noise from handbrake engaging/disengaging, no signs of shoes sticking/releasing when moving off.

[McGandalf]

Originally Posted by MarvinMitt

Hello!

I had a similar clunk in my 2002 V70 that nobody (including going to MOT for a test) could locate and finally I inspected the subframe bushes and one was so bad the whole subframe was shifting. The symptoms also included loose steering on highway speeds, like not feeling so sure about cornering at fast speeds.
I could really tell that one was very bad because the rubber edge visible between the lower washer and subframe was visibly deteriorated.

Also if I remember correctly from these forums, the Meyle drop links have to be installed correctly into the ARB and strut or they will clunk? Maybe someone can correct me?

Subframe bushes...I sincerely hope it's something simpler in the suspension, as subframe bush replacement on axle stands on the driveway looks like a real PITA.

Meyle drop links should have been installed correctly, but as i say it is very difficult to get a proper counterhold on the Meyle links (Volvo genuine links, at over £100 a side, have a useful T40 counterhold). I am slightly concerned I may have damaged one of the Meyle ARB link boots by trying to get the bicycle spanner to grip on the link while I tightened with a socket.

[oragex]

Subframe bushes are very simple to inspect before starting the actual job - so you don't replace them for no reason. Just support the subframe near one of them then undo the 18mm bolt and round metal plate. Mind you, these bushings are actually very soft inside. When they go bad you will notice they crack and detach in pieces. They can also leak - I think they are oil filled - but that still doesn't mean they are finished.

But at 90K miles I would expect them to still be in top shape.

Maybe also inspect the lower big engine mounts, the vacuum ones.

Sometimes even a strut can make noise, if it has seen large potholes (but I won't just replace them 'to see')

[McGandalf]

Originally Posted by oragex

Subframe bushes are very simple to inspect before starting the actual job - so you don't replace them for no reason. Just support the subframe near one of them then undo the 18mm bolt and round metal plate. Mind you, these bushings are actually very soft inside. When they go bad you will notice they crack and detach in pieces. They can also leak - I think they are oil filled - but that still doesn't mean they are finished.

But at 90K miles I would expect them to still be in top shape.

Maybe also inspect the lower big engine mounts, the vacuum ones.

Sometimes even a strut can make noise, if it has seen large potholes (but I won't just replace them 'to see')

Brilliant - thanks.

Is there a good diagram somewhere of exactly where these mounts are?

[MarvinMitt]

Originally Posted by oragex

But at 90K miles I would expect them to still be in top shape.

Ohh yeah, forgot to check the mileage. Mine was on 320k when the bushes were done.

[McGandalf]

Without jacking the car up and inspecting the subframe bushes, I do suspect they may be a cause of the clunking noise.

If one or more subframe bushes is indeed shot, is it a case that the bush(es) need to be replaced entirely - major job - or would inserting polyutherene subframe inserts in situ solve the issue, as per Sirobb's video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75-hyIvUCSI

[wynnj]

[QUOTE=McGandalf;2407031]Hi,

It doesn't happen immediately when I move forwards/backwards - I have to drive a few metres before I notice it.

I had exactly the same thing recently which turned out to be the lower suspension ball joint. I'd had the car jacked up and tried to check all sorts of things and couldn't find anything until, with the car still on the ground, I used a large screwdriver/ tyre lever to lever between the hub/lower end of the suspension leg and the steering limiter and the play was obvious; it only takes a few seconds to check each side.

I stopped driving the car immediately as I've seen too many cars with a front wheel collapsed, usually on a roundabout, due to ball joint failure.

I used a genuine volvo part bought from Rufe, and to drive the new joint into the hub I used a 2" to 1.5" galvanised BSP steel male to male pipe adapter fitted with a 1.5" end cap. To make absolutely sure that there was no chance of contacting the threaded end of the new ball joint when hammering it into the hub I put 2 or three large washers under the cap. A short length of 2" pipe or scaffold pole would work just as well, but make sure it's smooth on the inside where it fits over the flexible rubber part of the joint.