Rust advice needed

[J liddy]

James I agree welding is so costly if you can learn to weld it will save money
I will applying the rust inhibitor and waxoils .I'm thinking of getting lanogaurdd treatment have you heard about it ?

[abtx]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Sadly if the tin worm is extensive then even if getting it welded you will probably re-welding again in a few years in other areas as well as welded areas. Had a 1989 240 outriggers welded and 2 years later rusted out on the weld seam!

Mechanically everything is fixable, bodily less so.

I would look for a late 98 940 with a good body. All will have some rust but hopefully treated and looked after.

If you have a drive, buy yourself a welder and get practising. Wishing you well. They are a good car.

James

Thanks.

Yep, ok, breaking it makes sense. My dad has a drive he's not using, I can leave it there. I don't know if I want to invest time and effort in DIY something like welding to be honest, seems like quite a big undertaking. Another idea is to just drive it until it is not capable anymore.

If I could buy a rust free example for around the 2-3k mark, that'd be grand. Can I, though? It always seems that 2k mark is pretty low, looking at the ads.

[abtx]

Originally Posted by volvo always

Sadly if the tin worm is extensive then even if getting it welded you will probably re-welding again in a few years in other areas as well as welded areas. Had a 1989 240 outriggers welded and 2 years later rusted out on the weld seam!

Mechanically everything is fixable, bodily less so.

I would look for a late 98 940 with a good body. All will have some rust but hopefully treated and looked after.

If you have a drive, buy yourself a welder and get practising. Wishing you well. They are a good car.

James

Another thing that baffles me. The garage / used car dealership I bought the car from fixed few things up and sold it to me. The last MOT seems to have no advisories, but the rust repairs are more than the car's worth. It still has an exhaust gas leak on top of it. I'm not sure if the garage didn't do this to mislead potential buyers. I looked at it and thought everything was sorted out with the car. Oh well.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by abtx

Another thing that baffles me. The garage / used car dealership I bought the car from fixed few things up and sold it to me. The last MOT seems to have no advisories, but the rust repairs are more than the car's worth. It still has an exhaust gas leak on top of it. I'm not sure if the garage didn't do this to mislead potential buyers. I looked at it and thought everything was sorted out with the car. Oh well.

MOT Done by themselves or a friend?

You really need to have a good look underneath. Outriggers/jacking points, sills/ sill ends, Battery tray area, suspension mounting points. Take a good torch.

Could of been very rusty but not holed and just sprayed over to hide the rust. What does it look like underneath, any holes? A good wire brush and treating is a DIY job. Garage you went to may of not wanted the welding/ treating the rust work. I would get more quotes.

I bought a Toyota from a main dealer and missed the chip in the windscreen on passenger side. No mention on the MOT as an advisory when looked at MOT history online only tyre with slight cut.
A year later the same dealer did the MOT for me and yes, you guessed right put chipped screen on MOT advisory! Also front tyres were a bit perished a few months before MOT and tread around 3mm. Asked if I should change them and said "no they are legal and have more usage" Advisory also on tyres. Bit annoyed as looks as if I don't look after my car. Don't trust any car dealer/seller is my advise whoever they are.

James

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by J liddy

James I agree welding is so costly if you can learn to weld it will save money
I will applying the rust inhibitor and waxoils .I'm thinking of getting lanogaurdd treatment have you heard about it ?

Only seen the ads on youtube, no other info.

James

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by J liddy

James I agree welding is so costly if you can learn to weld it will save money
I will applying the rust inhibitor and waxoils .I'm thinking of getting lanogaurdd treatment have you heard about it ?

Lanoguard is meant to be very good, however Bilt-Hamber products were also meant to be very good.

I know a few people who started using Bilt Hamber a few years back and suddenly they now have rust again in the treated areas. Lanoguard seems too new to have built up any history. To be fair to Bilt-Hamber, others have said it's done a great job.

I've got a horrible feeling that no matter what you use, it will only delay the inevitable for a variable amount of time with factors as diverse as the humidity on the day you apply it, whether there was a microscopic spot of rust on the panel that couldn't be seen and other seemingly weird, wonderful and potentially far-fetched factors.

Waxoyl used to have a really good reputation, however in recent years it appears to go on harder and is more prone to being chipped and when it is, moisture gets underneath it and creeps via capilliary action to rust a large section. Although i haven't tried it myself, Supertrol stays flexible (i've had direct reports from someone i know well) once applied and is therefore more durable and less prone to going hard and chipping like Waxoyl.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334562128817

It should be noted that it protects against rust, it doesn't convert rust so the item needs to be free from rust to start with so you'll need a rust converter (Jenolite is a good one, originally developed for the Royal Navy to combat corrosion at sea) and treat the entire area (i'd go for surrounding area as well to be safe) and then once treated, paint with your chosen finish before applying the Supertrol.

I used Action Can products ~30 years ago and found them excellent, i hope they still make excellent products!

[abtx]

Originally Posted by volvo always

MOT Done by themselves or a friend?

You really need to have a good look underneath. Outriggers/jacking points, sills/ sill ends, Battery tray area, suspension mounting points. Take a good torch.

Could of been very rusty but not holed and just sprayed over to hide the rust. What does it look like underneath, any holes? A good wire brush and treating is a DIY job. Garage you went to may of not wanted the welding/ treating the rust work. I would get more quotes.

I bought a Toyota from a main dealer and missed the chip in the windscreen on passenger side. No mention on the MOT as an advisory when looked at MOT history online only tyre with slight cut.
A year later the same dealer did the MOT for me and yes, you guessed right put chipped screen on MOT advisory! Also front tyres were a bit perished a few months before MOT and tread around 3mm. Asked if I should change them and said "no they are legal and have more usage" Advisory also on tyres. Bit annoyed as looks as if I don't look after my car. Don't trust any car dealer/seller is my advise whoever they are.

James

Yeah, it was my bad, I ignored the obvious bits. I'll go get more garages to have a look. Cheers.

[baggy798]

Originally Posted by J liddy

I will applying the rust inhibitor and waxoils .I'm thinking of getting lanogaurdd treatment have you heard about it ?

Not seen any comparison tests of Lanoguard yet, although the few youtube videos it looks ok.

Other lanolin-based ones that have been tested and are IMO the 'Big 3':
Blaster Surface Shield (hard to get here)
CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor (hard to get here)
Fluid Film (I've used this, it's good stuff, easy to get and cheap)

I'd only put waxoyl or similar on a rust free chassis, and only then at gunpoint.😂