B&W audio system

[neon]

Originally Posted by Fantastic

If your V70 has the standard "High performance sound" as mine has, it's amplifier has 4 x 45w output.
Hope that helps.

When Volvo charged £500 for the Harmon K system it was worth the extra, but £3000 - they're having a laugh...

I have in most of my cars had the upgrade audio for around £500. Went with the extra sub for £300 without having heard it in the XC90 and now with a few tweaks and the speakers being run in I am pleased with the performance. I have seen a few comments from owners saying the standard system is terrible, I can only think it has been set incorrectly.

[marceloavg]

Any tips on the best settings for the standard system without sub?

[Lexman8]

You need to take the power outputs quoted by manufacturers (not just Volvo) with a large pinch of salt. Unless it specifies whether they are RMS (Root Mean Square) or PTP (Peak To Peak) the figures are pretty meaningless. PTP is often quoted (without saying it's PTP) as it gives a much larger figure than RMS even although RMS is a better indicator of true output. One trick manufacturers use is to feed the amp with a single frequency sine wave rather than the complex set of frequencies present in music. Another trick is to quote the PTP figure with only 1 channel of the amp active. This too gives a much larger figure because of limitations in the amp's power supply circuitry.

The B&W system has an alleged output of 1,400 watts. If this was RMS and assuming reasonably efficient speakers, the sound pressure level inside the cabin would be capable of permanently damaging your hearing. But somehow I don't think that's the case.

The same applies to home audio. I recently bought a fairly expensive soundbar for the new telly. Sony quotes an output of 300 watts but doesn't specify the measurement method. I checked the electrical power consumption and it's 70 watts maximum. So unless Sony has found some way of circumventing the laws of physics, the 300 watts looks dubious. Obviously, I knew about these tricks so don't feel cheated but others might be misled. As I said, all manufacturers play these games.

[mrlossyman]

It's not just the sound, the interior finish is beautiful too. A Rolex still tells the time but you pay for the quality.

[nu11eaf]

Originally Posted by marceloavg

Any tips on the best settings for the standard system without sub?

All I did was set the balance to give a little more bias to the rear speakers (just enough for my ear to pick them out) and adjusted the equalizer to my preferences, you can adjust the base and treble tone settings as well. I prefer a base sound so increased the base and set left side equalizer sliders upwards more than the the others on a wave like line towards the right. But adjust to your own preference. Hope all that makes sense.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Lexman8

You need to take the power outputs quoted by manufacturers (not just Volvo) with a large pinch of salt. Unless it specifies whether they are RMS (Root Mean Square) or PTP (Peak To Peak) the figures are pretty meaningless. PTP is often quoted (without saying it's PTP) as it gives a much larger figure than RMS even although RMS is a better indicator of true output. One trick manufacturers use is to feed the amp with a single frequency sine wave rather than the complex set of frequencies present in music. Another trick is to quote the PTP figure with only 1 channel of the amp active. This too gives a much larger figure because of limitations in the amp's power supply circuitry.

The B&W system has an alleged output of 1,400 watts. If this was RMS and assuming reasonably efficient speakers, the sound pressure level inside the cabin would be capable of permanently damaging your hearing. But somehow I don't think that's the case.

The same applies to home audio. I recently bought a fairly expensive soundbar for the new telly. Sony quotes an output of 300 watts but doesn't specify the measurement method. I checked the electrical power consumption and it's 70 watts maximum. So unless Sony has found some way of circumventing the laws of physics, the 300 watts looks dubious. Obviously, I knew about these tricks so don't feel cheated but others might be misled. As I said, all manufacturers play these games.

Volvo have always used RMS for their ratings ..These high powers are nothing new , the C70 had over 1000 watts ( RMS) of power . It isn't about volume though , it is probably Less loud than the basic system .. There are so many speakers ( 13 or more ) that the 1400 watts are spread around the car not concentrated out of two speakers . With these high power systems you just hear more things , Things like instruments and voices you might have missed when played on conventional systems .

[Roosterb]

Can the sub be retro fit? My local car audio place want to replace amp then build casing on left of boot for a sub.

[nu11eaf]

I dont understand how this old thread ended up in the new threads list, Posted a link to it in another thread,

Edit: understand it now, if added to.

I believe you can buy the Sub as an accessory to retro fit.

[ulstrup]

I don't think that listening to the FM or DAB allow you to really enjoy the quality of the BW.
THEN, try to listen to a good classical symphony, the 9th from Beethoven is a good start, and you will realize how good the BW is.

I had the BO in a previous AUDI, a few years ago, and the BW is so much better.

[nu11eaf]

Originally Posted by ulstrup

I don't think that listening to the FM or DAB allow you to really enjoy the quality of the BW.
THEN, try to listen to a good classical symphony, the 9th from Beethoven is a good start, and you will realize how good the BW is.

I had the BO in a previous AUDI, a few years ago, and the BW is so much better.

But is it really £3000 better, it is after all just a car radio which for the most part is just used for background music.