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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

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Old Oct 19th, 2020, 12:36   #1881
Othen
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
It surprising what you can find on Amazon Alan or should i say "Amazong"?

Very wise move adding a bit of grease and changing the bearing (when it lands) as if the bearing "picks up" and partially seizes, you get a nasty squeal and a smell of burning rubber!

I wonder if the PO did similar to what you've just done to get it in a state where it could be sold? Probably got a quote from Volvo for the bearing and when he finished crying (or laughing!) decided to bodge it and scarper.
My feeling is that it has been apart in the past, but perhaps not in the PO's tenure (I think he had owned it 4 years) - maybe 10 years ago - just a feeling with nothing but my experience and opinion to support it.

That aside, it does of course make sense to change the bearing and support now, and for a score plus a bit of my time (that I quite enjoy) that is another cheap fix that should keep the RB going for a decade or so.

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Old Oct 20th, 2020, 10:09   #1882
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Default V112

The RB's last required MoT certificate will run out today. I toyed with the idea of having it tested again, but then remembered this is the whole point of running an historic vehicle: no tax and MoT; so why would I pay £50 for a test the government says I don't need.

I took a smug pleasure in filling out the V112 declaring the RB exempt from the MoT this morn.

I couldn't find one of those little pictures to show how smug I feel, so here is a cool one:

Last edited by Othen; Oct 20th, 2020 at 10:34.
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Old Oct 20th, 2020, 13:38   #1883
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The RB's last required MoT certificate will run out today. I toyed with the idea of having it tested again, but then remembered this is the whole point of running an historic vehicle: no tax and MoT; so why would I pay £50 for a test the government says I don't need.

I took a smug pleasure in filling out the V112 declaring the RB exempt from the MoT this morn.

I couldn't find one of those little pictures to show how smug I feel, so here is a cool one:
I'm sure you know this already Alan but part of that declaration is that you then take responsibility for any defects found if you are involved in an accident or even a routine stop.
What happens now is if a defect is found you normally get a document to take to the MoT station after having it repaired and the station will stamp it and you send it back, job done.
Under the new "self-certification" you get reported immediately for the defect.
Knowing your mileage/use and how often you check things this shouldn't be a problem for you but i'd still suggest an MoT every 2-3 years just to cover yourself. Whether you'd have to fill V112 in again on expiry of the test i don't know for sure but i think it would be a good compromise to CYA and still gain the benefit of not getting a fresh MoT each year.




I couldn't find a smug one either but i reckon that one fits nicely!
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Old Oct 20th, 2020, 14:26   #1884
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I'm sure you know this already Alan but part of that declaration is that you then take responsibility for any defects found if you are involved in an accident or even a routine stop.
What happens now is if a defect is found you normally get a document to take to the MoT station after having it repaired and the station will stamp it and you send it back, job done.
Under the new "self-certification" you get reported immediately for the defect.
Knowing your mileage/use and how often you check things this shouldn't be a problem for you but i'd still suggest an MoT every 2-3 years just to cover yourself. Whether you'd have to fill V112 in again on expiry of the test i don't know for sure but i think it would be a good compromise to CYA and still gain the benefit of not getting a fresh MoT each year.




I couldn't find a smug one either but i reckon that one fits nicely!
I'm entirely happy that the onus is upon me to make sure my car is roadworthy Dave - and that is what the declaration says. I keep the RB in better condition than many newer vehicles I see on the road.

The V112 seems to be a once only declaration in that the only time I should need it will be to register the RB as an historic vehicle next April. I'll keep a copy in the glove box and also in the vehicle history file just in case of a calamity.

I'd only discovered those little pictures recently (I always wondered what they were) - and I like that one you used:

... my neighbour refers to the RB as 'the tank', so it is quite apt!
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Old Oct 20th, 2020, 20:44   #1885
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I was fairly sure you'd not only noticed the declaration but were happy with it Alan, to be honest my comments were more for the benefit of someone who happens to chance on your thread and decides it's a fantastic idea to run a 40+ year old car with no maintenance at all.

Glad you liked the tank smiley, i thought it was fairly apt bearing in mind your background and seemed to recall you mentioning your neighbours called it "The Tank" and also the colour is close too!
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Old Oct 20th, 2020, 21:12   #1886
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I was fairly sure you'd not only noticed the declaration but were happy with it Alan, to be honest my comments were more for the benefit of someone who happens to chance on your thread and decides it's a fantastic idea to run a 40+ year old car with no maintenance at all.

Glad you liked the tank smiley, i thought it was fairly apt bearing in mind your background and seemed to recall you mentioning your neighbours called it "The Tank" and also the colour is close too!
Actually Dave, what you said was a really good idea. It does concern me a bit (as you will know) that someone might buy a 40 year old wreck and run it as a work car with no maintenance. It would not take more than one or two accidents caused by historic cars in poor condition to have the government rescind the deal. If people take the law in the way it was intended (to make running well maintained historic vehicles easier and so retain a bit of industrial history) then all will be fine.

I'll mention to Neil (my neighbour) about the little 'tank' picture next time I see him dog walking - he will think that really amusing (he is an ex-Army chap as well).


Last edited by Othen; Oct 20th, 2020 at 23:08. Reason: Addition.
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Old Oct 31st, 2020, 12:43   #1887
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Default Prop shaft Bearing - Update

All has been quiet on the RB front for some weeks - which is really good news - nothing has gone wrong and I'm just enjoying driving the motor car.

It has taken an age to assemble what I think are the right parts to change the prop-shaft centre bearing and support. The first item I ordered was completely the wrong part, then the replacement rubber doughnut that arrived (although ostensibly the right part number), and the bearing that came with it were too large as well. Fortunately the both parts suppliers had good returns policies and were very helpful in identifying the correct parts - even though neither stocked them.

The issue is that Volvo used at least three (that I have discovered so far) different prop shafts on 240s back in the 70s and 80s, and there is no real way of telling which is fitted apart from getting underneath and disassembling (before anyone suggests it, I did try the Volvo dealers in Northants and Peterborough, both of which were completely unhelpful). So, having got underneath and disassembled I'm pretty sure I have the right bits now: a URO (pattern part) doughnut that seems far more sturdy than the Volvo one fitted (that may be an age thing) and a common or garden 6007-RS bearing that I got from a machine factor in Northampton for £4 (delivered).

I'd intended to get the swap done today before the rugby vs Italy this afternoon, but the heavens have opened so that will wait for another day. As soon as we get a reasonably good day I'll put the RB up on some ramps and post some pictures and words about how the job goes.

Best wishes,

Alan

Last edited by Othen; Oct 31st, 2020 at 13:23. Reason: Grammar.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2020, 14:45   #1888
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Default Prop shaft Bearing - Update

So, after walking Bob in the rain this morn and getting my son sorted out for the new term the rain suddenly stopped, and it brightened up, so I put the RB up on some ramps:



... it is useful to jack up one rear wheel and put it on an axle stand as well so the prop shaft can be turned by hand.

The rear flange came off easily (4 x 9/16" nuts and bolts), but then I'd had it off the car only a few weeks ago, it is a good idea to leave one bolt in loosely so it doesn't fall:



It is a good idea to lever the little rubber cone backwards off its seat before pulling out the drive shaft rather allowing the splines to pull through it (and risk tearing):



Next I dropped down the bracket that holds the bearing to the body (4 x 12mm bolts) and lowered it down onto a toolbox so the rear shaft pulls out (you may remember I'd marked the alignment of the shaft throughout with yellow paint previously):



… I noticed this job has been done previously (not surprising in 40 years) because the pressed steel flange at the front has been bent in the exactly the same places as required by my puller to fit (I straightened it out at the end of the job):



A 4" puller is a tight fit, and as you may see I had to zip tie it in place while I got everything lined up, and used a large socket as a spacer. The guy who did the job last time (maybe decades ago) obviously had the same issue, hence the flange.

The bearing came off easily enough, and all in one piece. It wasn't grumbling much, just not quite as silky smooth as the new one. A word of caution, there is nothing special about this bearing, it isn't made specially for Volvo, it is just a normal common or garden 6007-RS that can be bought cheaply from any machine factor. I say that because I see plenty of them being advertised online for £25 and more as genuine parts, but will be identical to the one I got for £4 in a plain box from a machine parts factor in Northants.

A 35mm socket (the one that fits most motorbike gearbox sprocket nuts - hence I have one) is the perfect tool to drive the new bearing on straight and true. Stop hammering when one gets the metallic sound:



Nearly done, the new bearing was on and I straightened out the pressed flange to keep the weather out (that is all it does):



Having cleaned up and had a good look at the old rubber doughnut, I'm pretty sure it would have been fine to put back on the car. I'd already bought a replacement though, a high quality URO part that was a little stiffer than the old Volvo one (possibly due to its age). I soaked it is hot water (about 70C) for about 10 minutes while I took a break for a cuppa and it went on very easily:



The rest was just buttoning up and the exact reverse of disassembly. I put a bit of bearing grease on the splines and they went in easily. Remember to replace the rear rubber boot in its groove and use the paint marks to re-align the shaft in its original configuration to avoid balance issues.

The old bearing wasn't too bad, but I'm glad I changed it, and the whole job cost less than £20 in parts (but a couple of weeks of toing and froing with suppliers to get the right ones (see the previous post, I'm guessing Volvo had lots of different parts suppliers):



I suppose the whole job only took about 45 minutes and required no special skills or tools - but a garage might have charged more than £100.

I've just taken the RB out for a spin - all is well and there is one less noise from under the car (there is nothing wrong, just everything is 40 years old).

:-)

Last edited by Othen; Nov 2nd, 2020 at 17:16. Reason: Spelling error.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2020, 15:06   #1889
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I suppose the whole job only took about 45 minutes and required no special skills or tools - but a garage might have charged more than £100.

I've just taken the RB out for a spin - all is well and there is one less noise from under the car (there is nothing wrong, just everything is 40 years old).

:-)
Excellent write-up Alan!

You suggest a garage would have charged more than £100 - i'd suggest that just for the labour given most hourly rates these days!

It's all the little things that add up like this to make the old beast that much more pleasant to drive and own and also make any future odd-noise-diagnosis easier because first they're easiler to hear and second, you're (normally) able to rule out a few things it might be.

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Old Nov 2nd, 2020, 15:25   #1890
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Excellent write-up Alan!

You suggest a garage would have charged more than £100 - i'd suggest that just for the labour given most hourly rates these days!

It's all the little things that add up like this to make the old beast that much more pleasant to drive and own and also make any future odd-noise-diagnosis easier because first they're easiler to hear and second, you're (normally) able to rule out a few things it might be.

Absolutely agree, 'L.S.'. Not only that, but as Alan knows exactly what has, and has not, been done to his car, he will be much better placed to plan and execute any work that may be required in future than if he 'entrusted' the Royal Barge to a garage. That, and the satisfaction of a job well done, in addition to any financial savings, rewards the effort involved in spades.

Regards, John.
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