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Driveshafts and Motor/Gearbox mounts

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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 18:28   #21
Othen
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Originally Posted by Bob 1967 View Post
Okay , so installation is reverse of assembly.
Clean everything especially the circlip grooves I gave the coupling a thorough cleaning before respraying.

Then with caps removed (my caps had been pre-greased so rollers stayed in caps snugly) put the cross (spider bearing ??) into the coupling .


Then press or tap ,I used the latter . Remember ,if tapping keep an eye on alignment of caps until flush ,then use a drift to pass circlip groove.. The caps go in easily enough, so not much effort is required to put them in.


Repeat for other side ,being careful with placement of cap over bearing surface of cross.

Place completed unit in driveshaft.



Insert caps as before and finish with circlips.


Bob
Good write up and pictures Bob. I note from your sandals that your attitude to health and safety whilst working on your motor car is exactly the same as is mine :-)
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Old Aug 17th, 2020, 21:54   #22
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Good write up and pictures Bob. I note from your sandals that your attitude to health and safety whilst working on your motor car is exactly the same as is mine :-)
Built for comfort not for speed !!
Glad its out of focus thought ,I was a bit snowball 2.or dumb and dumber before the grinder !!

Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 17th, 2020 at 21:56.
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Old Aug 20th, 2020, 18:25   #23
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Default Engine /Gearbox mounts

Just a quick update .Pictures and more detail to follow.
Gearbox mount ,tried this 1st (should have done engine 1st!)
Was a pig to fit ,wouldn't line up ,so left bolts for crossmember loose.
Today I started engine mounts .
The rubber mounts were sheared and while trying to replace I could see the holes were at least 1 inch to the right along with the whole engine !!!
Hours of struggle ensued trying to reposition the engine .
Eventually (after many ,many expletives) I had no option but to kick the 3 ton jack supporting the engine and it seemed to do the trick. More to follow.
Bob.
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Old Aug 20th, 2020, 21:20   #24
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Just a quick update .Pictures and more detail to follow.
Gearbox mount ,tried this 1st (should have done engine 1st!)
Was a pig to fit ,wouldn't line up ,so left bolts for crossmember loose.
Today I started engine mounts .
The rubber mounts were sheared and while trying to replace I could see the holes were at least 1 inch to the right along with the whole engine !!!
Hours of struggle ensued trying to reposition the engine .
Eventually (after many ,many expletives) I had no option but to kick the 3 ton jack supporting the engine and it seemed to do the trick. More to follow.
Bob.
Bob, Did you have a look at the bit of the RB thread where I changed the engine and gearbox mounts? I'll try to work out how to save a link to just that bit, it might help a bit.
Alan
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Old Aug 20th, 2020, 21:32   #25
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This might work Bob:

Passenger's side:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1301

Driver's side and gearbox mount:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...postcount=1347

Rigging up a an engine brace like I did might well help a bit in re-positioning the engine (I used part of a Fiat Panda). It may be too late now, but I'd do the passenger side first (easiest and gets things more or less in the right place), then the driver's side (fiddly, but ensures the engine sits squarely - then the transmission mount (this was pretty easy with the engine not flopping about).

Good fortune,

Alan
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Old Aug 20th, 2020, 22:39   #26
Bob 1967
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I got the passenger side in after the kick , the gearbox fitted perfectly after the engine came into line .
The driveshaft went in easier than it's removal with new centre bearing .
2 problems I had ,the 3/8 unf bolts (to diff) were too long (new ones ordered) I used the ones I had just to hold it in position .
and the motor mounts from skandix were the wrong type (straight bolt like Alans' ) ,I had a spare of the correct type (offset bolt) and one on order.

Strange thing , every nut and bolt is usually metric on European cars, yet brake pipes are BSP , Drive shaft bolts are UNF and wheel nuts are UNF.
What's that all about ??

Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 20th, 2020 at 22:47.
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Old Aug 20th, 2020, 22:55   #27
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Strange thing , every nut and bolt is usually metric on European cars, yet brake pipes are BSP , Drive shaft bolts are UNF and wheel nuts are UNF.
What's that all about ??
Regarding the imperial fasteners: someone like Loki or LS will probable correct me, but I think I remember that Volvo had lots of English suppliers back in those days, perhaps that is the reason?

Well done with the mounts - the car will be much better now.

Alan

Last edited by Othen; Aug 20th, 2020 at 22:58.
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Old Aug 25th, 2020, 11:04   #28
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Sorry I'm late to the party but I will give my experiences of changing the engine and g/box mounts as I did mine a couple of months ago.

First the g/box mounting. The car was on hydraulic car ramps from CJAutos and I supported the g/box on a hydraulic jack. I then removed the cross member and replaced the mounting. I know they would come out fairly easy as 4 years ago I replaced the clutch.

The engine mounts I did one side at once. I started on the NS and undid the nut on the subframe end. I then took the mounting from the engine and removed. An electric impact wrench removed the other end of rubber mounting from the engine mounting.

The OS one was a little trickier with the alternator and oil filter in the way. The filter was removed and the alternator slackened and pivoted out of the way. The procedure was the same - remove the nut from the subframe and then remove the mounting from the engine block.

During both of these procedures I used a Clarke's engine crane to support the motor, rather than a jack under the sump. The car was still on the hydraulic ramps but in the lowered position, giving enough room for me to get under the front end as required.

It also helped that i had the front end apart to do the cambelt and 'stat.
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Last edited by hennabm; Aug 25th, 2020 at 11:14.
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Old Aug 25th, 2020, 20:10   #29
Bob 1967
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Hi, I had the car raised and on axle stands at the rear and on two sections of
4" scaffold planks at the front with wheel chocks . So car was high enough to remove Driveshaft and crossmember along with gearbox crossmember and mount . All mounts (2x motor and 1 gearbox mount) were sheared.
I used a 3 ton trolley jack to raise the engine . Once I got the passenger (left) mount back in (the whole engine was two inches to the right). The right mount was easy to remove once the oil filter was removed.
Re assembly was only a problem with the furthest forward bolt in the engine .
I couldn't find my 12mm ratchet spanner (It has a ratchet insert in the ring end),so I had to use the normal spanner for this bolt which was a 1/16 of a turn at a time .
All done now .
I had spent about an hour or two doing a write up with pictures and I pressed "review" to check the post and then accidently closed the page .
So I just hadn't the patience to repeat the post.
Bob

Last edited by Bob 1967; Aug 25th, 2020 at 20:14.
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Old Aug 25th, 2020, 20:12   #30
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I had spent about an hour or two doing a write up with pictures and I pressed "review" to check and then accidently closed the page .
So I just hadn't the patience to repeat the post.
Bob
... I've also done that previously Bob!
Alan
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