Guide to changing the Aux belts and tensioner.

[Semnoz]

Thanks Bobsy,

I've have a proper read of that post later, it looks very helpful.

I've just come across the following rather handy video from Dayco that's for my engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPAyP9Z5w3o

The part in the video about removing a couple of lower-engine arms is interesting as I wouldn't have known about that. I'm assuming it's to allow the engine to move a bit, as per your description, although it's not clear from the video whether they're part of the engine mounting assembly (they don't look robust enough).

I'll try and take any photos, and if it all goes well will try to post back here.

But it looks like it'll rain all weekend, and my V70 doesn't fit in the garage (well, I should have expected that shouldn't I !)

BTW, the last timing belt change I did was on my old Renault campervan. Access to the engine front was completely open, so I took the rather questionable approach of slicing the existing timing belt to half its width (careful use of stanley knife !) while it was still fitted, sliding the new one half-way over the pulleys (with a bit of reduction on the tensioner) and then discarding the old belt, and pushing the new one all the way on. I absolutely can't remember why I did it that way, but it worked perfectly ! I won't be doing that on my lovely D5 though !!

[Tatsfield]

I absolutely can't remember why I did it that way

Sounds like a simple but brutal way of maintaining the timing position integrity of the cam pulley!

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Tatsfield

Sounds like a simple but brutal way of maintaining the timing position integrity of the cam pulley!

I certainly remember being paranoid about the crank turning out of sync with the camshaft.....and I recall marking the pulleys/block with paint.....but I must have had a sudden moment of madness/genius

Out of curiosity, is it generally the case that crank/cam shafts won't rotate on their own once the timing belt is temporarily removed ? Presumably it's all 'balanced' inside ? I know in some cases locking pins can be used as a security measure, though I might be thinking of pins to hold tensioners out the way ?

[Semnoz]

Damn, just realised I forgot to buy a crankshaft pulley holding tool....and I won't find anywhere with them in stock (1 week wait from Machine Mart)...

[Semnoz]

Amazingly, Machine Mart's single holding tool in stock happened to be at their Manchester branch.

The rain wasn't a problem - turns out my V70 does fit in the garage !

Got it all done yesterday (was easily 7 hours plus, but half that time was faffing with things like timing belt cover, whereas the core mechanical tasks such as removing the crankshaft pulley were relatively straight forward - though having good tools obviously helps !).

Having inspected the existing parts, it seems that the timing belt, tensioner and idler were all original (2008, 133k miles !). The auxiliary belt looks newish, and appears to have 2015 stamped on it, and someone has marked a 2015 date inside the engine bay, so I'm assuming that has been replaced. The water pump and alternator pulley bearings were still very smooth with only a miniscule amount of side-to-side play in the water-pump.

Rather than keep replying here, I've posted up my experience as a new forum topic:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=265236

[big square car]

tt82, thank you for your excellent guide to the belt changes. I recently had all belts done by a well known Volvo independent who was adamant that the auxiliary belt tensioner did not require changing. I obviously felt very uneasy about this so rather than leave the car with him for another day with the associated faffing around with public transport decide to do it myself using your guide.
The following points were noted:
1. As you say impossible to get a torx socket to the centre bolt so I used a L torx lever as you suggested. this worked well
2. No need to remove the under tray or in this case the AC stretch belt as I was not changing it.
3. Impossible to refit the auxiliary drive belt on my own. The missis was conscripted to hold the belt on the alternator pulley while I sorted out the bottom pulleys and tensioner!
4. As you say impossible to get a torque wrench in there so had to guesstimate
Thanks again for an excellent guide and photos.

[stevepen]

Thanks for this guide.

Just did my auxiliary and aircon belt today. The hardest bit was getting the new aircon belt on.

Did it all from underneath, rather than the YouTube video that did it all from the top. But he didn't have the top engine mount getting in the way.

So glad I've done it as the old aircon belt had stretched and gone hard so wasn't turning the compressor at all. I just thought the aircon needed re-gassing and was going to leave until the spring. Now I have ice cold air

[TeeMarkM]

Originally Posted by tt82

As above, just work it on slowly whilst turning the pulleys.

Hi,
The aircon pump belt on my 2009 V70 D5 [159,000 miles] has just snapped. Long story short, the auxiliary belt snapped and was replaced in anger at around 100,000M but it appears that the independent garage didn't replace both belts.
Question: In your opinion, could a professional successfully stretch on a new aircon belt without having to remove then refit/ tension the aux belt?

[xavierx]

Originally Posted by TeeMarkM

Hi,
The aircon pump belt on my 2009 V70 D5 [159,000 miles] has just snapped. Long story short, the auxiliary belt snapped and was replaced in anger at around 100,000M but it appears that the independent garage didn't replace both belts.
Question: In your opinion, could a professional successfully stretch on a new aircon belt without having to remove then refit/ tension the aux belt?

No, the aux belt goes on a pully that is over the top of the aircon belt.

It's not a big deal, it is quicker to refit the aux belt than it is to fit the aircon belt.

HOWEVER, the bigger problem that you have is that you are leaving your belts way too long, to the point that they snap, which carries a HUGE risk of destroying the engine.

If your aux belt was last changed at 100k, then it is already overdue a replacement, so you need to get both belts and the tensioner replaced.

If you have already had 2 belts snap, then you have already used up all your luck. Its 50/50 whether a broken belt will get into the timing cover and destroy the engine