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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Oil Breathers / flame trap...Views : 12542 Replies : 53Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 7th, 2011, 22:08 | #1 |
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Oil Breathers / flame trap...
OK, Dumb Question coming up but here goes......
Seen several threads on here concerning poor idle/oil on engine/strong smell of oil etc etc all of which my 940 2.3 LPT has! The remedy seems to be replace oil filler cap oil seal (done) and clean out the oil breathers/replace flame trap. So my, I hope not too dumb, question is ............HOW??! I'm fairly handy with the spanners, but this is a new one on me, and needless to say, Haynes is silent on this point...... Hints/Tips or a full "how to" guide all gratefully received! Thanks Graeme. |
Apr 7th, 2011, 22:23 | #2 |
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700/900 faq
See 900 FAQ - save you a fortune!
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Engi...ion_A_Treatise |
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Apr 7th, 2011, 22:41 | #3 |
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You need to remove and clean/replace parts 1 to 8 in the above pic. Part no.6 is what is referred to as the flame trap, but none of the turbo cars actually have a flame trap (Volvo removed them in the early 1990s). Instead you have one of these: The part number listed is correct for this piece (it is worth having one of these in stock as the narrow spur tends to snap off with age). You will definately need a new o-ring for the base of the oil seperator (#2).
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Gavin 1997 945 CD (B230FK) [RIP: 1991 945 Turbo (B230FT) 1992 945 SE turbo (B200FT)] |
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Apr 7th, 2011, 23:23 | #4 |
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Thanks ALL!!
Why oh Why oh Why did I not just ask this question on the forum before I splashed out on a Haynes.......Still, it will be useful for something no doubt, wobbly table legs, swatting wasps....... Seriously, thank you guys, that's my weekend sorted! Graeme. |
Apr 8th, 2011, 00:09 | #5 |
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It's hard to clean the oil trap, item 1 in GPL's diag. Prob easier just to replace it.
And yes Haynes is still good to have! All the best Last edited by RealEstate; Apr 8th, 2011 at 00:13. |
Apr 8th, 2011, 00:43 | #6 |
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One other place to check are the nipples on the inlet manifold.
The smaller pipe that goes to the elbow was completely clogged on my set-up when I got it. Oh and you can remove the trap without removing the inlet manifold just a bit of jiggling around. Last edited by nickm; Apr 8th, 2011 at 00:47. |
Apr 7th, 2011, 22:30 | #7 |
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pcv
I'm sorting mine out on Monday. I've ordered a new oil trap as the one on the car gets brittle and can easily be damaged when removing it. I think it will be easier to remove with the inlet manifold out of the way and I can clean all the outlets properly. Mine is leaking oil from the front cam seal and when the dipstick is removed theres a lot of white vapour coming out. The pipe that goes over the cam cover goes into a plastic Y joint just under the manifold with a much smaller pipe from the manifold itself, The Y adapter can easily be removed and cleaned but will not have a white flame trap in it as it's a turbo. The new oil trap and seal cost £31 from Rufe.
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Nov 21st, 2022, 22:18 | #8 | |
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Nov 22nd, 2022, 07:41 | #9 |
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The OP posted this in 2011
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