Manifold Leak Suggestions Please

[Steve 940]

Well that was expensive.....

£187+ for 8 head studs/nuts, 4 studs/nuts turbo to manifold, 3 studs/nuts for Turbo to front pipe, oil feed pipe gasket and o ring, plus 8 crush washers for banjo fittings.

I know they're genuine Volvo head / manifold studs, but £7+ each for a stud and similar for a single nut, whilst coming from Sweden in 6-8 days, I do feel a tad 'shafted'.

If it fixes it then I suppose I'll forget the cost, although it does stick in the throat a bit, when specialist fasteners suppliers have studs of all sorts for around 60p for steel or £1 for stainless.

Only trouble is you can't find out the exact sizes needed till you actually do the job, so as I need mine off the road as little is possible I need to get all the bits to hand before starting.

Oh well, that can be the better halfs Xmas pressie 😀😀

Cheers
Steve

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Hi Dave,

Once again thanks so much for 'top tips' on this, and as you may have guessed it's a bit of astep into the unknown for me, not having done this before.

Yes I do want a belt n braces backup, as often things don't go to plan.

Copper shim sheet? Sorry to be a numpty, do you mean 1mm thick copper sheet, or is it a gasket material sandwiched between copper sheet. I have some old normal gasket paper for making up one off gaskets, but obviously not suitable for exhaust use.

Stud extractor, any suggestions on 'best' sort please, seen some that look to work with a serrated cam onto socket drive, something like this??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262046137...yABEgL3gPD_BwE

Would you pull manifold and replace head to manifold gaskets at the same time, or leave alone?? Obviously if I get Turbo off, I will check manifold carefully for signs of any cracks, white / grey deposits. Just don't really want to risk shearing a head stud if manifold itself is not cracked.

Cheers
Steve

Copper shim sheet is the same as copper sheet, just a different way of saying it really. Generally used for making copper shims to use on machinery for small adjustments on the production tools. No numpty points need to be awarded as it's a perfectly sensible question.
Using ~1mm copper sheet will be fine, maybe i should have used the term "copper shim/copper sheet" first time round.

Stud extractors - the one you picked (i have one similar) has a tendency to bend/twist the stud resulting in shearing because it works on one "side" of the stud. Much better to spend a bit more on :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353801269438

The chuck uses a left hand thread so the harder you try to turn it, the tighter it grips on the stud. Also rated for impact use so you can use a windy gun or cordless impact wrench on it as well - worth its weight in gold in terms of making life easier! As you might guess, i bought one after the first type failed to remove some studs, shearing a couple - this chuck type one removed the sheared studs and all the others i had to remove too.

I'd be reluctant to remove the manifold from the head unless you know that either there are cracks in it or the gaskets between it and the head are leaking - what isn't disturbed takes less fixing afterwards!

If you're dealing with a reluctant stud, once you have it moving, spray more penetrating fluid on and wind it back in then out again until it goes tight and repeat until the tightness has moved along the thread far enough for your to be able to completely remove the stud without shearing it. Useful technique on other nuts/bolts as well.

[Steve 940]

Cheers Dave,

Extractor as you suggested on order, and really appreciate your knowledge and experience. Yes I can imagine you've unfortunately found out the hard way about the other type and its limitations.

On the Laser one, do you put as much as the stud in the jaws as possible, or just say 15-20 mm of stud? Just thinking if extractor has some space between jaws and head, then if the stud shears, there's a possibility of welding a nut on stud end.

Stud shearing right at the head is giving me nightmares already😀

Cheers
Steve

[lynns hubby]

If you are unlucky and any of the studs shear flush with the head the next step is this.
You have said that your brother in law has MIG gear, get some sacrificial STEEL nuts next size up from the stud, (cheap enough as you have said). Hold over the broken stud with mole grips or similar whilst getting the brother in law to weld the nut to the broken stud. Start by trying to build up a small peak (for want of a better description) then go for welding this peak to the inside of the nut. Wack the AMPS up to generate plenty of heat and get as much penetration as possible as this is what helps free the stud. Once it has cooled sufficiently you can then get a Spanner/socket or the mole grips on it to start to work it out. You may find you need to do this a few times as you do not necessarily get full penetration and the nut comes off, hence get several nuts. It has NEVER failed for me over the years.

This would also be a great method if there is part of the stud sticking out as the instant heat will do more than anything else you can do to get things moving.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Cheers Dave,

Extractor as you suggested on order, and really appreciate your knowledge and experience. Yes I can imagine you've unfortunately found out the hard way about the other type and its limitations.

On the Laser one, do you put as much as the stud in the jaws as possible, or just say 15-20 mm of stud? Just thinking if extractor has some space between jaws and head, then if the stud shears, there's a possibility of welding a nut on stud end.

Stud shearing right at the head is giving me nightmares already😀

Cheers
Steve

I've always put the chuck of the extractor as far down the stud as possible Steve so there's less space between the extractor and the thing the stud is in for the stud to twist.

I wasn't actually using my extractor at the time and had warned the person using it to get it as close as possible but he didn't and sheared the stud about 3mm from the flange, necessitating drilling it out and using a nut and bolt instead.

Empirical evidence perhaps but i've never sheared a stud with that tool.

[lynns hubby]

Just another thing not wanting to worry you. If you have to go down the road of drilling out and tapping. Fit the manifold back with what ever studs are left and use the hole in the manifold as a guide for the drill. use a drill the same size as the hole in the manifold to spot the stud in the head. By this I mean just start to drill sufficient to make a dimple in the stud. that way when you remove the manifold you have the centre of the stud marked out for drilling with the correct size for tapping. You should start with a small drill and work up progressively to the correct size for tapping.

Don't try and mark the centre of the stud with a punch by eye as drilling steel in an alloy head is a nightmare as the drill will wander off to the softer material.

I know all this sounds daunting if its not what your used to. Slow and steady is the thing here.

I am sure you will be fine. As you have found out, there is loads of help and advice on here.

I am sure

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by lynns hubby

Just another thing not wanting to worry you. If you have to go down the road of drilling out and tapping. Fit the manifold back with what ever studs are left and use the hole in the manifold as a guide for the drill. use a drill the same size as the hole in the manifold to spot the stud in the head. By this I mean just start to drill sufficient to make a dimple in the stud. that way when you remove the manifold you have the centre of the stud marked out for drilling with the correct size for tapping. You should start with a small drill and work up progressively to the correct size for tapping.

Don't try and mark the centre of the stud with a punch by eye as drilling steel in an alloy head is a nightmare as the drill will wander off to the softer material.

I know all this sounds daunting if its not what your used to. Slow and steady is the thing here.

I am sure you will be fine. As you have found out, there is loads of help and advice on here.

I am sure

Excellent tip and advice there!

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Well that was expensive.....

£187+ for 8 head studs/nuts, 4 studs/nuts turbo to manifold, 3 studs/nuts for Turbo to front pipe, oil feed pipe gasket and o ring, plus 8 crush washers for banjo fittings.

I know they're genuine Volvo head / manifold studs, but £7+ each for a stud and similar for a single nut, whilst coming from Sweden in 6-8 days, I do feel a tad 'shafted'.

If it fixes it then I suppose I'll forget the cost, although it does stick in the throat a bit, when specialist fasteners suppliers have studs of all sorts for around 60p for steel or £1 for stainless.

Only trouble is you can't find out the exact sizes needed till you actually do the job, so as I need mine off the road as little is possible I need to get all the bits to hand before starting.

Oh well, that can be the better halfs Xmas pressie 😀😀

Cheers
Steve

Did you order from FRF ? They give a very good VOC discount.

[Steve 940]

Many thanks for all those recent posts from you all, really really appreciated.

I really must just say since joining this forum I can't believe the friendly support and invaluable knowledge that's out there, previously I had an Allroad with 'issues' with inlet manifold flap motors, VW /Audi forum support was almost non existent.

Anyway, lots to take on board, have tried pushing some work back to new year, so week before Xmas I might be able to get this sorted. Hopefully the job will go well, but being aware or pre-warned of potential pitfalls should hopefully give me a fighting chance.

Haynes indicates draining coolant system, I presume I don't need to drain the whole thing, just enough to allow turbo removal. A full flush of radiator and heater matrix is on my long list of preventative jobs to do, that have since been overtaken by more pressing problems😀

Mark, No I didn't order from FRF, Brookhouse are only around 10 miles or so from me, and were very good getting parts sorted for me when I was sorting my soggy rear end so to speak

Should be here mid-end of next week, they had most parts but manifold/head studs coming from Sweden.

I have the GCP links to Weblisher parts list, but don't really feel confident enough in being able to decipher exactly what I need, although I seem to have so many tabs open on sections that I have issues with.

Cheers
Steve

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Many thanks for all those recent posts from you all, really really appreciated.

I really must just say since joining this forum I can't believe the friendly support and invaluable knowledge that's out there, previously I had an Allroad with 'issues' with inlet manifold flap motors, VW /Audi forum support was almost non existent.

Anyway, lots to take on board, have tried pushing some work back to new year, so week before Xmas I might be able to get this sorted. Hopefully the job will go well, but being aware or pre-warned of potential pitfalls should hopefully give me a fighting chance.

Haynes indicates draining coolant system, I presume I don't need to drain the whole thing, just enough to allow turbo removal. A full flush of radiator and heater matrix is on my long list of preventative jobs to do, that have since been overtaken by more pressing problems😀

Mark, No I didn't order from FRF, Brookhouse are only around 10 miles or so from me, and were very good getting parts sorted for me when I was sorting my soggy rear end so to speak

Should be here mid-end of next week, they had most parts but manifold/head studs coming from Sweden.

I have the GCP links to Weblisher parts list, but don't really feel confident enough in being able to decipher exactly what I need, although I seem to have so many tabs open on sections that I have issues with.

Cheers
Steve

Pity, as you would've saved about £40