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solving my new 940s little niggles

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Old Sep 17th, 2018, 21:08   #1
SSDadWagon
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hi im new here my names matt im 27yo and this is my 4th volvo (2x 340s and 1x 440) its a 97 940cd 2.3t auto and it has some issues id like help resolving
firstly occasionally it stalls... starts right back up but nevertheless i know an auto shouldnt so having a little look and where the throttle cable joins the throttle body?? i see theres a few cables supposed to be there the end one that goes down behind is snapped could this have an effect????
secondly the fuel gauge doesnt work is this a common thing???
and finally im guessing the trackings out because outside edge of both my front tyres are balding but the symptoms ive never come across before it actually wants to self centre so bad like feels like a small notch to get it off centre lol

also while im here are 740 & 940 estate parcel shelves interchangeable i dont have one and seem to find 740 ones easy
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Old Sep 17th, 2018, 22:12   #2
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Welcome Matt .. I am sure that shortly the experts here will 'pop-up' with suitable responses to help. Bob
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Old Sep 17th, 2018, 23:44   #3
Laird Scooby
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Welcome aboard Matt!

These problems you've got, first DON'T TOUCH THE THROTTLE STOP SCREW!!!

Second, which cables do you mean - the electrical cables or the Bowden cables for the kickdown, throttle and (if fitted) cruise control?

When it stalls, i'm guessing sometimes you'll be coasting to a stop just before it stalls? If so, keep an eye on the rev counter, if it drops like a stone and you still know the engine is turning, it points to the CPS - Crankshaft Position Sensor.

If the rev counter is still above zero, even if jumping about like a frog on a pogo-stick, the chances are the AICV (Air Idle Control Valve) and PCV system are filthy. You'll need some carb and air intake cleaner spray to solve this.

First you need to narrow the field a bit so it's in one area or the other - any other clues you spot along the way would be useful too!

It could also be down to a whole host of other things - those are the most common causes, need more clues first!

As for the fuel gauge - welcome to 7/9xx ownership! Sometimes you get one that never fails, others will work when they feel like it and others just won't work at all. A good place to start would be the instrument pack, remove it and the multiplugs from behind with the exception of a single wire for the rev counter, the others can only go back where they came from and the way round they are meant to be.
Clean the copper tracks on the PCB where it folds round the housing to make the male connector for the plugs to fit on - use a piece of fine emery cloth gently.

Clean the contact "fingers" in the plugs the same way and using something thin and strong like a small Allen key, pull the curve out a bit so the fingers are more bowed - it's a tedious job but can work wonders. While you have the instruments out, replace any duff bulbs in it and if you're considering changing the bulbs for LEDs on the illumination, now would be a good time.

That may restore your fuel gauge operation - also check the mounting screws that hold the fuel gauge into the pod, they are accessible on the back of the instrument pod - loose screws will prevent good contact as they are also the gauge electrical connections.

The tracking may well be spot on but the camber could be out - Volvo did a modified suspension mount to correct this - it may also be someone has fitted an older set of front struts to it in the wrong position, altering the camber or the rear springs may be weak or lowered again, causing camber problems on the front.
Or it could simple be that it's toeing in too much!

Could be the spaceship bushes have worn out, the tracking was set correctly while they were worn and they've since been replaced - so many possibilities here! On the good side, it is self-centring very well and that's a positive sign. You probably notice it more as this is your first RWD Volvo with power steering, it's not so noticeable on the 3xx even with manual steering and the 440 is FWD with very little self-centring feel.

As for the parcel shelves, i think so but i'm not sure. Buy a cheap one, if it doesn't fit, ebay it again and maybe make a profit, if it does, you've got a cheap one!
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 11:09   #4
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On the outer tyre wear, this is a common problem, especially with spirited driving. I feel it is down to low daily mileage and low tyre temperatures and pressures. I'm still experimenting but I'm currently trialing running 29psi in the front instead of 28. Lower profile wheels+tyres might also improve it.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 13:49   #5
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Regarding tyre wear, I would suggest a full laser alignment for all four wheels. It can be the cost of a tyre, but chances are your car has never had all the wheels checked since new. Mine felt much better to drive after I had it done. Tyre wear has reduced significantly.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 13:53   #6
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta66 View Post
Regarding tyre wear, I would suggest a full laser alignment for all four wheels. It can be the cost of a tyre, but chances are your car has never had all the wheels checked since new. Mine felt much better to drive after I had it done. Tyre wear has reduced significantly.
Good idea but check all the bushes first, especially the spaceship bushes. Also if it's an estate, chances are it has a live axle, not the multi-link/IRS set-up.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 17:33   #7
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You can solve the tyre wear by doing the “camber mod” which basically adds slightly more negative camber to the front end. It was an official Volvo mod which I did to my car and it takes 10mins. If you lower the car say 40mm it has the same effect (ish). Having tracking and alignment checked won’t solve the problem if all they do is correct it to the factory defaults.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 17:44   #8
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Mine got the 4 wheel laser alignment etc in February 2017, it was set to standard and the tyres, the fronts which were renewed at the same time have hardly worn. I have done about 5000 miles in that time.

I was a bit dubious, but Wheeler Dealers did it a couple of times and considering my front tyres turned out to be nearly 20 years old and the car needed track rod ends and drop links for its MOT, it made sense. I did feel a difference.
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