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URGENT HELP / ADVICE needed - Warning lights

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Old Jan 19th, 2021, 22:14   #21
JeffCooper63
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Why don't you ring the independant up and see what equipment he says he has - any workshop can get Vida, and a specialist may well know how to use it better than the main stealers !!
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Old Jan 19th, 2021, 22:14   #22
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GOT AN IDEA. .. Could i connect the negative terminal of the battery to the Body chassis (or any other metal on the car) to see if there is an issue with the ground? Any idea of this would work. I have some heavy duty Jump leads and was reading a lot about ground after a poster above. Any idea if it will work?
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Old Jan 20th, 2021, 07:20   #23
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GOT AN IDEA. .. Could i connect the negative terminal of the battery to the Body chassis (or any other metal on the car) to see if there is an issue with the ground? Any idea of this would work. I have some heavy duty Jump leads and was reading a lot about ground after a poster above. Any idea if it will work?
Your problem won't be with battery earthing, or the starter would be unable to operate. If it is an earthing problem (which is quite possible) then it would be the earthing of the load, possibly the CEM. So you could try running an external earth cable from the battery negative to the CEM, etc. Or get up under the dash and look for a loose connection?

Did you ever try removing the underdash panels on the passenger side to check for wet connectors? Maybe unplugging/reconnecting would reveal a damaged (or wet) CANBus connector? Your issue does have similarities to mine... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=289206
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Last edited by Zebster; Jan 20th, 2021 at 07:23.
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Old Jan 20th, 2021, 10:41   #24
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Your problem won't be with battery earthing, or the starter would be unable to operate. If it is an earthing problem (which is quite possible) then it would be the earthing of the load, possibly the CEM. So you could try running an external earth cable from the battery negative to the CEM, etc. Or get up under the dash and look for a loose connection?

Did you ever try removing the underdash panels on the passenger side to check for wet connectors? Maybe unplugging/reconnecting would reveal a damaged (or wet) CANBus connector? Your issue does have similarities to mine... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=289206
Any video's to do this. i gather i need to make sure that the negative terminal in the battery is off first..!
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Old Jan 20th, 2021, 11:09   #25
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Any video's to do this. i gather i need to make sure that the negative terminal in the battery is off first..!
Posts 31 and 32 in my thread do give limited advice about removing the screws. Might be worth a look on Youtube if you feel that you really do need to see something more comprehensive?
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Old Jan 25th, 2021, 08:47   #26
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uPDATE:

called RAC: Initially they refused to come out citing that i did not take to the garage on the Friday that my wife was driving. My wife explained that the RAC man said its near 5pm so no point taking to garage as everything will be closed so you can drive home and i will watch. After a lot of tooing and froing they said i will gave to call again like a new call out so did on Thursday.

RAC chap came, 5 mins in, said i know its an alternator. I said look, alternator and batteries replaced at huge cost less than 2 years ago. Said nah.. its alternator and showed me volts of 12v at 1-2 mins from cold start and should be near 14. told me to press acceleration and i did. From then on was running at around 15 or so i think. so i said looks all fine. He then tells me its an INTERMITTANT ALTERNATOR fault. I said, sorry, not to sound rude but i have done a lot of reading etc. etc. and my thoughts. he then run diagnostics and says a lot of comms to the CEM was not working, because of the alternator.

I then said.. look its been 15v for about 10 mins, reset codes and it should be fine. i then called original mechanic who fitted alternator to speak to the RAC and the mechanic said newer alternators will output 12v if no load, if you put load it'll go to 15v which it did.

He still said nah Alternator, so i said the nearest garage chap said he wont touch it as he knows its more complicated so in the end they agreed due to my cover to take to Wickford.

Took 7 hrs for the tow truck to come!

Will update all as to what happens.
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Old Feb 5th, 2021, 16:01   #27
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UPDATE:
I took to the Volvo independent Garage - They said they could not get to communicate with the CEM. So at a great cost (£1400) or so they did that and so can communicate with it but told me something about the CAN BUS wire/line issue and that it is flagging lots of fault codes. They had spent yesterday trying to see the fault but not able to sort out yet.

They are not sure how long it will take as its apparently a painstaking process.

God knows what'll come out of it!
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Old Feb 5th, 2021, 16:21   #28
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UPDATE:
I took to the Volvo independent Garage - They said they could not get to communicate with the CEM. So at a great cost (£1400) or so they did that and so can communicate with it but told me something about the CAN BUS wire/line issue and that it is flagging lots of fault codes. They had spent yesterday trying to see the fault but not able to sort out yet.

They are not sure how long it will take as its apparently a painstaking process.

God knows what'll come out of it!
Sounds very similar to mine, Volvo Shrewsbury had it for about a week. Cost me £500 total for an extended diagnosis, leaking pipe repair, a short CANBus cable and a CANBus connector repair. The CANBus had become intermittently unresponsive and that initially prevented any diagnosis... I think I was lucky to get a Master Tech who knew where to look without diagnostics.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 22:38   #29
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SO GUYS HERE IS THE UPDATE - XC60 MULTIPLE WARNING LIGHTS / DTS / AIRBAG / BATTERY / ABS / ESP etc. etc.

So please see the above post before reading this.

I gave the car to a Volvo independent chap. Got he car back after nearly 4 weeks.

He said:
* Took long time as he could not talk to the CEM module. So had to order a new one. Charged me £1000 inc VAT.
* After installing new one, it kept on giving warning and all errors.
* After spending like 5 hrs he started to take each component of the CEM connections apart and found the DEM wire was causing the issues.
* Said DEM was overload the CEM so causing all the errors.

* Charged £1550 to fix BUT DISCONNECTED THE DEM.

When asked how can i fix the DEM, he said that would cost me another £1000 plus 2hrs labour and he would have to order from manufacturer.

I was screwed.

I asked to get my original CEM back but he said he has sent it to the manufacturer.

I asked how did the CEM break and mentioned something about water. (i had no water leaks that i could see in the footwell). I asked did he clean the blockage that caused water overflow and he said he did but did not show me what he had cleaned.

So had a working car, Minus £1550 plus a disconnected DEM which would cost me another £1000 plus 2hr labour.

Did not seem keen to even bother about attempting to fix DEM. Also messed up my boot lock wiring so shorted it so it always says closed.

Searched ebay - found guy who repairs the DEM.

On same day i got car from independent Volvo mechanic, drove 20 mins to the other guy who fixed it all.

DEM recondition £140.
DEM Labour - half hour - £30.

I asked the guy what he thought about £1550.. and he said.. paying £1000 for CEM was stupid. No one buys CEM for that price. He said what he would do is contact volvo to say he wanted to upgrade the CEM due to front sensors etc.. and usually with coding max he pays is £250.

SO MORAL OF THE STORY:

If you get multiple WARNIGN LIGHTS and SIGNALS, consider the DEM first, then the CEM in case water damaged AND THEN IF CEM needed, either go to main dealer or find chaps on ebay who can do it for a fraction of the price i paid.

Thanks for all your help and idea;s.

ONE QUESTION : where can i clear the debris to prevent the (if it was ever the case) water over flow that damaged my CEM..?

Thanks
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