ECP oil

[GP1]

Originally Posted by Mr steptoe

Go on, how many ? How many cars in use everyday ? How many are parked up at the side of the road with worn out engines..

4 In Jan and 3 in Feb, all broke drown & sludged up when inspected, all due to oil covering to many miles, not necessary cheap/bad oil, but just not changed, and oddly all 4 in Feb been Mercs..

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by GP1

4 In Jan and 3 in Feb, all broke drown & sludged up when inspected, all due to oil covering to many miles, not necessary cheap/bad oil, but just not changed, and oddly all 4 in Feb been Mercs..

Sludge forms when the oil runs out of detergent additives, as apart from a direct cleaning effect they keep what is mostly Carbon in suspension. Once they run out the Carbon forms clumps that tend to finish up in the sump and various nook and crannies. Ultimately sludge blocks the oil pump intake screen causing a loss of oil pressure. More expensive oils normally contain more detergent additives, so they will last longer.

The use of cheap engine oil or too long a change interval results in about half of all turbo failures. Oddly enough the turbo does protect the main block to some extent, as the turbo bearings normally fail well before the mains or rings if the engine is subject to poor lubrication issues.

Oddly enough poor quality oil filters (They split) cause nearly as much harm as poor quality engine oil, although using a bad air filter is nearly as bad as a using a bad oil filter. Ultra fine Silicon dust particles get through the air filter and past the rings into the oil. Those particles are too small to get caught by the oil filter and cause a lot of extra wear because Silicon crystals have very sharp corners.

[gullavelt]

Originally Posted by skyship007

Sludge forms when the oil runs out of detergent additives, as apart from a direct cleaning effect they keep what is mostly Carbon in suspension. Once they run out the Carbon forms clumps that tend to finish up in the sump and various nook and crannies. Ultimately sludge blocks the oil pump intake screen causing a loss of oil pressure. More expensive oils normally contain more detergent additives, so they will last longer.

The use of cheap engine oil or too long a change interval results in about half of all turbo failures. Oddly enough the turbo does protect the main block to some extent, as the turbo bearings normally fail well before the mains or rings if the engine is subject to poor lubrication issues.

Oddly enough poor quality oil filters (They split) cause nearly as much harm as poor quality engine oil, although using a bad air filter is nearly as bad as a using a bad oil filter. Ultra fine Silicon dust particles get through the air filter and past the rings into the oil. Those particles are too small to get caught by the oil filter and cause a lot of extra wear because Silicon crystals have very sharp corners.

Thanks you clearly know your onions , So to speak !

[gullavelt]

[QUOTE=Mr steptoe;2070098]But bare in mind how many engines you know or have heard of failing or wearing out due to bad oil or filters over the last 30 years..

Go on, how many ? How many cars in use everyday ? How many are parked up at the side of the road with worn out engines..

Don't get paranoid about engine oil just stick to the manufactures advice rather than internet experts . . [/QUOTE


Try as i might i cannot see any evidence of paranoia in my my reply TBH , I merely thanked the poster for a informative reply .
.

[Mr steptoe]

Originally Posted by GP1

4 In Jan and 3 in Feb, all broke drown & sludged up when inspected, all due to oil covering to many miles, not necessary cheap/bad oil, but just not changed, and oddly all 4 in Feb been Mercs..

So they hadn't followed the manufacturers servicing advice. As i said, follow their advice and i doubt you'd ever see an engine at the side of the road with an engine blown simply due to "bad" oil.

[Mr steptoe]

Originally Posted by gullavelt

Try as i might i cannot see any evidence of paranoia in my my reply TBH , I merely thanked the poster for a informative reply .
.

Why recommend adding oil additives to the engine oil. Car/engine and oil manufacturers don't recommend it. Most of it has been discredited as snake oil.

I know who'd i'd rather take advice from.......

[dingov70]

Stepping in to this thread again , Euro car parts oil must be made to meet manufacturers specs . If it does not , they are lining themselves up for an expensive legal case . rather than fret about how good a specific make of oil is , ask youself how dirty you would feel after not showering for a month . It is the same for the engine oil , regular oil changes at less than manufacturers reccomendations is no bad thing and most certainly a good thing . Speak to anyone running the latest sprinters that get an oil change at the specified times & find out how many have destroyed the center main bearing due to oil contamination . I use ECP oils for every motor i work on , from old clunkers up to 64 plate jobs .

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Mr steptoe

Why recommend adding oil additives to the engine oil. Car/engine and oil manufacturers don't recommend it. Most of it has been discredited as snake oil.

I know who'd i'd rather take advice from.......

In general terms you don't need extra oil additives in a new engine and they are only of use when you have a specific problem, like an oil leak that is too expensive to fix.
There are a lot of snake oil companies around, but Liqui Moly is definitely not one of them and their additives do exactly what they say on their product data sheets.

The only oil additives that have a reputation for causing trouble are drive around flush ones (Sometimes called scourers) designed to clean up a sludged up block.

When you select an engine oil I would always stick to a major brand, because the Acea regs are based on self certification and there is nothing to stop a company producing poor quality oils. When an engine fails due to poor lubrication it is almost impossible to prove it was caused by the quality of the oil, so some new companies can get away with selling junk oil for many years as a result of the difficulty of proving their product was responsible.

I would note that there are several special offers (Eurocarparts and Carparts4less) for Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 (A3/B4) available online, so using a good oil does not cost much more at present.

[GP1]

Originally Posted by skyship007

Sludge forms when the oil runs out of detergent additives, as apart from a direct cleaning effect they keep what is mostly Carbon in suspension. Once they run out the Carbon forms clumps that tend to finish up in the sump and various nook and crannies. Ultimately sludge blocks the oil pump intake screen causing a loss of oil pressure. More expensive oils normally contain more detergent additives, so they will last longer.

I'm struggling to get my head around how an oil can be a good lubricant when it includes detergents/abrasive cleaners within, how can it successfully do both, do you have a links I could read?

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by GP1

I'm struggling to get my head around how an oil can be a good lubricant when it includes detergents/abrasive cleaners within, how can it successfully do both, do you have a links I could read?

This post has a very good description of what detergent (They are also dispersants) additives do:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=258648

They are not abrasive and cheap oils that lack enough detergent additives should be changed much more often to avoid sludge formation.