AWD Transmission: DIY AWD repair instructions - Unable to reply to that post?

[timh30]

D5Gill,

I started this job today, but didn't get very far. Stuck removing the lower arm/wishbone from the ball joint as I believe you had trouble with this too? I have a proper ball joint splitter, but unfortunately it isn't large enough to fit around the ball joint. I also have tried a puller, but this seems to slip off once any great pressure is applied. Can I ask how you eventually manged to seperate the arm and balljoint ?

[400-ascona]

I left the ball joint connected, and removed the wishbone and knuckle still attached together (less chance of damaging the rubber). There are 3 bolts that hold the wishbone on to the subframe (2 horizontal, and 1 vertical), and you will have to disconnect the steering joint (easy enough as there are flats to hold at the top to stop it spinning). If you are just wanting to remove the drive shaft, you can leave the wishbone and knuckle on, and just remove the 2 bolts at the bottom of the shock absorber.
Watch you dont damage the ABS sensor and its wire. Hopefully your drive shaft wont be seized into the bearing like mine were. I ended up removing the whole assy (i was taking gearbox out so it made access easier anyway). I left the hubs face down in a tray with penetrating fluid soaking in from behind. You have to use new bolts for the driveshaft.

[timh30]

Hi Ascona, I did wonder about removing the wishbone from the subframe, but wasn't sure how easy it would be to realign when the bushes are under compression from the spring/strut. Did you jack up the hub to make it easier to remove the wishbone ?

I may still have to get at the ball joint though, as I managed to dislodge the ring that holds the rubber boot at the bottom of the ball joint.

I don't recall having this issue when I replaced the ball joints and wishbones on my v70 - must be a slightly different design?

[D5Gill]

I got stuck at that exact same point. This is possibly one of the most challenging parts of the process.

WD40 is your friend. Soak the joint. Undo the the retaining nut, place a trolley jack under the hub to take the weight of the spring and shock off and whack the outside of the wishbone where the ball joint goes with a heavy hammer. It will come apart eventually. Turn the steering from side to side each time whacking the metal on the control arm.

You wont manage to separate the two without pre-loading the hub to take the sprung weight off

[400-ascona]

Originally Posted by timh30

Hi Ascona, I did wonder about removing the wishbone from the subframe, but wasn't sure how easy it would be to realign when the bushes are under compression from the spring/strut. Did you jack up the hub to make it easier to remove the wishbone ?

No difficulty lining it up. Disconnect the shock first, and reconnect last. Taking it off is the easy part. I always try to steer clear of breaking ball joints, even if you manage to not damage the rubber gaitor, they don't seem to last afterwards.

[timh30]

Thankfully we still have 2 cars, so I haven't had to rush this job and have been able to do an hour or so each evening last week. I eventually managed to get the ball joint off using the destructive forked tool, which took an immense hammering before it budged. So I will get 2 new ball joints to replace - have found some 'FAI' ones on ebay for £10 each + postage, which I hope are ok ?

Other than that it has just been slow and difficult work with spanners and sockets to remove everything (very tight access to many of the bolts), but thankfully I had D5Gill's excellent post to follow.

I now just need to angle grind a slot into the sleeve and tap that off. New kit ordered from Volvo and they confirmed same part number as D5Gill for me.

I've attached a photo of the sleeve with everthing else removed, it was covered in a thick sticky mess (now cleaned up), which I assume was the grease mixed with the metal shavings.

[timh30]

One thing I noticed during disassembly is I have a slight leak from the bottom of the bevel gear. Seeing as it is all out I think I'll split this open and put some sealant around the mating surfaces and then fill with fresh oil.

You can also probably see from the picture that the car has had a new turbo installed recently. Whoever did this work, didn't bother putting back the brake pipe and power steering clips (as I assume they had to drop the subframe?), and just tie-wrapped them back up! Consequently they are rubbing against the frame and I need to sort this out as well - might need assistance from someone to show me where new clips need to go.

Regards,
Tim.

[D5Gill]

Originally Posted by timh30

One thing I noticed during disassembly is I have a slight leak from the bottom of the bevel gear. Seeing as it is all out I think I'll split this open and put some sealant around the mating surfaces and then fill with fresh oil.

You can also probably see from the picture that the car has had a new turbo installed recently. Whoever did this work, didn't bother putting back the brake pipe and power steering clips (as I assume they had to drop the subframe?), and just tie-wrapped them back up! Consequently they are rubbing against the frame and I need to sort this out as well - might need assistance from someone to show me where new clips need to go.

Regards,
Tim.

You can use a thin bead of hylomar universal blue. It's a brilliant oil proof, non setting sealing paste. I have used it countless times on my BMW 850. Most recently to seal a failed sump gasket. I swear by this product. It's around £8 for a tube available from gsf car parts.

If you dont own a slide hammer, invest in one from screwfix for less than £20

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/62730/...uller-Kit-9-Pc

[timh30]

The sleeve came off really easily with a little levering from a crow bar (after angle grinding a slot). I've split open and resealed the bevel gear - everything seemed in good order. Couldn't get Hylomar sealant, but got an equivalent one. Interestingly there was no paper gasket or sealant at all bettween the two halves of the bevel gear, so they were relying soley on a perfect mating of the machined surfaces.

One question though - did you put the special spline grease on both the gearbox and bevel gear splines (i.e both sides of the splined collar)? I ask because the gearbox side does sit in the transmission fluid?

Thanks,
Tim.

[D5Gill]

Originally Posted by timh30

One question though - did you put the special spline grease on both the gearbox and bevel gear splines (i.e both sides of the splined collar)? I ask because the gearbox side does sit in the transmission fluid?

Thanks,
Tim.

I put in on the inside of the collar on the bevel gear and the transmission end.