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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars

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The Joy Of 240's, with issues...

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Old Mar 27th, 2020, 19:47   #61
CosmicBike
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The sump bolt is 25mm or 1” (yes, I know, everyone has one of those!).
Thanks, I'll pick one up over the weekend
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Old Mar 28th, 2020, 19:51   #62
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I'm claiming another success today, eventually. After one last go at the crank pull bolt with no luck, I opted to trim the lower timing belt cover just enough to get it off.
Now with suitable access, set to TDC on #1 cylinder. Dizzy looked a bit off, and the auxiliary pinion was a bit off too, by about 1 belt tooth...
Confirmed one tooth out when fitting the new belt, so corrected. Tensioner is fine so left in place (which means I have a new one to gather dust..). Good few rotations with a ratchet and all good.
Next up was fitting the new water pump. I've read the horror stories, and thought I'd nailed it first time until I put coolant in, which promptly fell out, ha ha…
2nd attempt, one of the 6mm studs sheared off. Stud extractor out, removed, new one ready.
3rd effort, so far so good.
New drive belts for alternator and power steering pump fitted.
By now it's dinner time, so after a request for a 30 minute delay I got the fan shroud and fan back on.
7 litres of coolant added brought me to the max line, no leaks so far, extra coolant will need to go in one it's warmed up and thermostat opened.
She runs! Albeit not particularly well, which is likely to be the timing, so that's a job for tomorrow.
Finally feel like I'm getting somewhere..
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Old Mar 30th, 2020, 13:32   #63
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I'm claiming another success today, eventually. After one last go at the crank pull bolt with no luck, I opted to trim the lower timing belt cover just enough to get it off.
Now with suitable access, set to TDC on #1 cylinder. Dizzy looked a bit off, and the auxiliary pinion was a bit off too, by about 1 belt tooth...
Confirmed one tooth out when fitting the new belt, so corrected. Tensioner is fine so left in place (which means I have a new one to gather dust..). Good few rotations with a ratchet and all good.
Next up was fitting the new water pump. I've read the horror stories, and thought I'd nailed it first time until I put coolant in, which promptly fell out, ha ha…
2nd attempt, one of the 6mm studs sheared off. Stud extractor out, removed, new one ready.
3rd effort, so far so good.
New drive belts for alternator and power steering pump fitted.
By now it's dinner time, so after a request for a 30 minute delay I got the fan shroud and fan back on.
7 litres of coolant added brought me to the max line, no leaks so far, extra coolant will need to go in one it's warmed up and thermostat opened.
She runs! Albeit not particularly well, which is likely to be the timing, so that's a job for tomorrow.
Finally feel like I'm getting somewhere..
Exciting!
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Old Mar 30th, 2020, 14:06   #64
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A quick half hour this morning. She starts on the button, the rubbish running is back, which clears when warm. So it wasn't the ECT sensor!
Checked the timing, which according to the Haynes manual should be set in accordance with the VECI sticker which I can't find. The strobe tells me we are at 10 degrees on idle, advancing nicely when required. Whilst I've read that the LH2.4 system deals with the timing and it is therefore not adjustable, the facility to do so, mechanically at least, exists.
On the positive side, a quick run around the block to get the thermostat open, no leaks from the water pump.
Much as it's a little frustrating, I do love working on the Swedish Beast.
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Old Mar 30th, 2020, 14:27   #65
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A quick half hour this morning. She starts on the button, the rubbish running is back, which clears when warm. So it wasn't the ECT sensor!
Checked the timing, which according to the Haynes manual should be set in accordance with the VECI sticker which I can't find. The strobe tells me we are at 10 degrees on idle, advancing nicely when required. Whilst I've read that the LH2.4 system deals with the timing and it is therefore not adjustable, the facility to do so, mechanically at least, exists.
On the positive side, a quick run around the block to get the thermostat open, no leaks from the water pump.
Much as it's a little frustrating, I do love working on the Swedish Beast.
I agree - it is quite satisfying working on the Royal Barge also.

:-)
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Old Mar 31st, 2020, 19:14   #66
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Well that was an interesting hour or so this afternoon.
I figured I'd try the EeziBleed, so spare out of the boot, inflated it to 10 PSI (Gunsons say 20 PSI, but reduce to 10 for older cars). Hindsight says I should have tried going up to 15 PSI.
Suitably attached and filled with new Dot4 fluid, I cracked open the clutch nipple. Slooowly it bled through, coffee coloured fluid is not a good thing.... Waited until clear which took a while, I reckon in future I'll do higher on the pressure.
Also did the left rear, same coffee colour fluid. I need some more time to do the rest, I also need to know if Grace has ABS as the Haynes manual suggests a different order in which to bleed vs non-ABS, though not sure if it matters using a pressurised method?? Either way, clutch felt better, brakes felt sharper (as much as you can tell reversing down the driveway and back up again...)

I've also fitted a new, correct O2 sensor. Something I'd already done, but the one supplied was for a 2.3 turbo. No idea if it matters, but the cable was the right length on the new, correct Bosch part numbered one.

Couple of interesting things found out today. Firstly, there is no way that the spare wheel will fit. It had a new tyre fitted before I bought it, and it's a HUGE load rated truck tyre with the tallest sideways I've seen!! For those old enough to remember Herbie, consider the moment they fit a cart wheel as a spare. I'll have a chat with my local chap and get it replaced.
Also noted that the hydraulic fluid take off from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder is semi-segregated from the rest of it, I presume to protect the braking circuit in the even of the clutch line failing.

Still yet to change the oil, filter is stuck proper and can't find my wrench so waiting to buy a new one. And I've got batteries for the welding mask now, so hopefully be able to get that frustrating fill plug out of the gearbox soon.
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Old Mar 31st, 2020, 19:45   #67
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Well that was an interesting hour or so this afternoon.
I figured I'd try the EeziBleed, so spare out of the boot, inflated it to 10 PSI (Gunsons say 20 PSI, but reduce to 10 for older cars). Hindsight says I should have tried going up to 15 PSI.
Suitably attached and filled with new Dot4 fluid, I cracked open the clutch nipple. Slooowly it bled through, coffee coloured fluid is not a good thing.... Waited until clear which took a while, I reckon in future I'll do higher on the pressure.
Also did the left rear, same coffee colour fluid. I need some more time to do the rest, I also need to know if Grace has ABS as the Haynes manual suggests a different order in which to bleed vs non-ABS, though not sure if it matters using a pressurised method?? Either way, clutch felt better, brakes felt sharper (as much as you can tell reversing down the driveway and back up again...)

I've also fitted a new, correct O2 sensor. Something I'd already done, but the one supplied was for a 2.3 turbo. No idea if it matters, but the cable was the right length on the new, correct Bosch part numbered one.

Couple of interesting things found out today. Firstly, there is no way that the spare wheel will fit. It had a new tyre fitted before I bought it, and it's a HUGE load rated truck tyre with the tallest sideways I've seen!! For those old enough to remember Herbie, consider the moment they fit a cart wheel as a spare. I'll have a chat with my local chap and get it replaced.
Also noted that the hydraulic fluid take off from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder is semi-segregated from the rest of it, I presume to protect the braking circuit in the even of the clutch line failing.

Still yet to change the oil, filter is stuck proper and can't find my wrench so waiting to buy a new one. And I've got batteries for the welding mask now, so hopefully be able to get that frustrating fill plug out of the gearbox soon.
Good stuff. Coffee coloured DOT4 is always a worry, I had that with a Suzuki bike last year - it is fine now though.

Why not just hammer a big screwdriver through the oil filter? That will get it turning easy enough, and you are not going to use it again so you don’t care about damaging it.

Good thread.

Alan
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Old Mar 31st, 2020, 19:56   #68
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Why not just hammer a big screwdriver through the oil filter? That will get it turning easy enough, and you are not going to use it again so you don’t care about damaging it.

Good thread.

Alan
Mess, no other reason. Mind you, I suppose it will clean up. But at the same time, it's not like it's going anywhere! Back to work for a shift Thursday, but I'll probably go on the bike for the exercise.
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Old Mar 31st, 2020, 21:41   #69
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Mess, no other reason. Mind you, I suppose it will clean up. But at the same time, it's not like it's going anywhere! Back to work for a shift Thursday, but I'll probably go on the bike for the exercise.
Put a plastic bag over the oil filter before removing it, I find a large sealing food bag best, let the filter drop into the bag and no mess. Screwdriver works well.
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Old Apr 1st, 2020, 07:11   #70
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Mess, no other reason. Mind you, I suppose it will clean up. But at the same time, it's not like it's going anywhere! Back to work for a shift Thursday, but I'll probably go on the bike for the exercise.
There will only be the filter's own capacity of oil - a cup full or so. Once you puncture the lower side with the screwdriver it will run down - into a bag as someone suggested above. The screwdriver method never fails for very tight oil filters.

Good weather for push biking.
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