Engine movement

[pyro]

They aren't pneumatic,

Hydraulic fluid filled "donuts" they look the same as the pneumatic ones, but without pipe fittings etc.

The engine mounts had identical part numbers on new and old parts, plus side by side they eyed up the same and slotted in o place with no issues.


bp

[SteveSarre]

Hi Pyro

Oh well, wild guess.

With your VIN, can you get a part number for your control arms from Volvo?
Then check it against the Meyle parts that you have fitted?

Steve

[SteveSarre]

Hi Pyro,

Last wild guess for today.

If you jack one side up, see how far the wheel or steering spindle hangs down (eg from the top edge of the wheel arch).

Then do that on the other side.

If the shock is extending too far, the control arm will hang down too far.

I don't know if the shocks and springs are the same on diesels as they are on petrols.

HTH
Steve

[SteveSarre]

PS

Have you taken off the boot and looked at the tripod joint (inner joint) on the shaft that you took off? (as ITSV40 sugggested).

That joint can become dislocated eg when you disturb the driveshaft, possibly when you change a wheel bearing or change a control arm.

If the joint is dislocated then the joint will probably become damaged when you drive.

If that turns out to be the case, do you think the new driveshaft has been damaged in the same manner?

Steve

[Baffler]

But here's the thing...fom the video you can clearly see engine movement whilst turning the shaft (I assume the gearbox was in neutral at this time?) that's why I thought the inner CV was making contact with the subframe and causing the engine to lift slightly.

The only other things that come mind are the replacement control arm is too short (highly unlikely) or these replacment driveshafts are a few millimetres too long and therefore in a compressed state. Do you perhaps have the original Volvo shaft to measure from?

[pyro]

Evening folks, hope we are all well!

I went over a few things this evening:

The tripod joint is seated correctly within itself, but as you say it seems like the driveshaft itself is slightly too long. From memory there is normally a little bit of slack that you take up with the hub nut/bolt, but on this shaft and the last one there has been no slack at all. ie bottomed out against the hub/wheel bearing.

So a new bottom arm is enroute and a replacement engine mount for under the pulley. I think under close in spection it might have sagged a bit. It is definitely softer than I expected it to be, Laid on my back I can push up on the sump and lift the engine maybe 1/2"
If it isn't this then its one thing ruled out!

With the car in gear, both wheels off the ground, the issue is still there.

With the car in gear, and a jack under the bottom arm lifted to normal ride height, the movement disapears. So just like driving on a normal smooth road, no issues at all.

The inner joint is, as you say, definitely binding, I'm assuming bottomed out therefore pushing the engine around.

I'll pull the old shaft appart and inspect for damage on the tripod tomorrow evening.

I suppose the only way to compare driveshaft length is to get hold of a genuine Volvo one to compare to! Not sure I can come by one of those without selling a kidney!

Cheers for all your help!

Ben

[pyro]

Think I have come to the conclusion that it is the wrong driveshaft, the one I possibly have is from an early mk 2 v70 (p2?)

If we are sure that automatic v70 d5252t shafts fit there is one on ebay (unknown condition; granted. But its come from a running, driving car, gives me a good starting point!)


Still not pulled the old driveshaft appart, a pint of Hobgoblin was calling!

Hope your all well!

-pyro-

[pyro]

I managed to get this all sorted.

Despite the j&r shaft meeting the volvo part number for my car, it was actually the wrong part, I believe its for a mk2 v70.

After ringing volvo and confirming the part number I had I managed to find the length of the shaft it should have fitted - 973mm

The new j&r shaft and the orginal one removed were just over 1000mm

with this information I managed to filter out the wrong parts, and find a euro driveline part and have it shipped up, got it swapped out in record time (35mins)

Its (as expected!) made a massive difference, steering is lighter, and no engine movement, vibration etc.

So in conclusion, there seems to be confusion over what does and doesn't fit. So definitely worth arguing points with motor factors and dealers!


Now onto the dynamic timing belt!

Cheers all,

-pyro-

[happy diver]

Here I am sitting in a chair a million miles away and, I'm relieved

Certainly gives credence to Clan about purchasing genuine online