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Guide to replace rear brakes on S60/V70

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Old Dec 22nd, 2013, 13:46   #71
Marmitespreader
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Have a look on the inside of the drum to see if a 'lip' has developed over time. This can be easily tapped or filed off.
Also, give the handbrake cable a bit of a wiggle, incase it has snagged & holding the shoes open slightly.
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Old May 5th, 2014, 20:13   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S60-MBS View Post
Hi Folks,
Just thought I pass on my experiences today at renewing rear discs,pads and shoes on my S60 2003.Took me a little longer than expected but all was worthwhile in the end.

1) Raise vehicle and for your safety use axle stands as extra support,I placed my wheel underneath also as I am abit too paranoid.Release handbrake and chock front wheels.



2) Remove wheel and take picture just so that you can remember how the rattle spring is fitted,Should look something like this.



3)Remove Rattle spring and then remove dust caps on piston slide bolts,Using 7mm Hex key (Allen key) undo the slide bolts.



4) Once slide bolts are removed you will be able to slide away caliper from carrier,leave pads intact for now.Using wire (or garden twisty in my case ) hang caliper on suspension in order to reduce stress on brake hoses.



5) Using 13mm socket and rachet begin to remove caliper carrier bolts,Meanwhile taking care not to damage the rear wheel sensor,The wire for sensor can be removed from bracket should it be getting in the way.




6) Once carrier if off you can begin to remove disc,Mine was stuck firm so i had to use a large rubber mallet to encourage the disc.once disc if off this is what you be seeing,At this point I was a little disapointed at a certain main dealer for reporting my brake shoes where completely naff,As you can see from pic below they are anything but naff.



7) Remove springs from shoes,the spring in centre of hub was the trickiest I found,The trick to it is to use long nose plier to grab and push it into hub and while pushing to twist it just a touch,The spring then should come free,You can however encourage spring by pulling away top of shoe and by using a thin screwdriver to prise at spring end.The end result should look like this.



8) Clean the dust off hub and inspect hub area for grease leakage ,use light dabs of copper slip on area which comes into contact with brake shoes.Once all is clean fit new shoes and assemble new disc.
Hint: fit side toward front of car first as the shoes once fitted squeeze together making it alot easier to fit disc.

9) Now for the pads,remove the pad at front of caliper which is bonded to caliper.Using a G clamp push back piston with old pad still in place.I used a Draper brake bleeding kit while pushing piston back,The caliper being a brake part which gets very hot should contain alot of crap which I didnt fancy pushing back into system.
Once piston had been pushed back remove old pad which is clipped into place,Clean surrounding area of rust and dirt.Refit caliper and carriers and being to install new pads,If you are using original Volvo pads you will find the outer pad has a 3M sitcky pad on outside which bonds pad to caliper.Refit rattle springs,At this point you want to refer to picture you may have taken earlier to see how spring fits,Believe me I done it twice today .
The end result should be like this:



Repeat all steps for other side of car.Once all parts are fitted road test car,before moving of pump the brake pedal in order to push the pads into correct place.Drive at about 20mph and pull up handbrake,this will help embed the shoes,You may notice your handbrake may have got very tight after new shoes as was in my case,This means handbrake adjustment is needed.

To Adjust Handbrake
1) Remove handbrake lever Gaitor,This normally just unclips upwards with console lid open.




2) raise the biege coloured plastic flap and you will see a 10mm nut and bolt as in centre of pic below.



If you handbrake is too tight then turn nut anti clockwise,if loose then clockwise.

Hope this helps

Regards
Mo

Ps I really need to lose weight ,being a little large is making working on cars painful now
I see from the wheel under the car that you went to the common sense school of methodology , the other point is something I must agree with as well, no more ice cream after meals for me.......I have been considering drilling and riveting my shoes when I do them before MOT in a few months, should be some copper rivets in the shed somewhere.

Last edited by Djbutler; May 5th, 2014 at 20:31.
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Old Jul 21st, 2015, 13:08   #73
mdmuddin
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Hi,
have benefitted a lot from the guide, thanks a lot.

I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) It seems you have used the subframe link to jack up the car. Where then, have you places the jack stand?

2) Can anyone advise what types of lubricants I will need for the job and where I should use them? Links for UK sellers for the lubricants would be a bonus.

Thanks.
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