S40 New EGR needing programming?

[Paddy94]

Hey guys.

Have had my 2009 S40 2.0d for around a month now and think that the EGR is starting to stick open/closed.

I've been getting a constant 'shutter' or 'Jutter' at 1800 RPM and a few nights ago, while merging onto the motorway, I took her a bit high in the rev range in 3rd, a plume of black smoke came out the back and the car went into what I can only assume was limp mode. No turbo, no high reving, etc...I didn't get any lights on the dash, expect for "Engine System service required."

However, I managed to get to where I needed to be and when I came back to the car for my trip home, it was all back to normal. No messages, no limp, plenty of turbo, etc...

Now this afternoon I went out to the car and it was very slow to start, it took about 3-4 tries of it 'almost' catching until it came to life. Started every time after that...for now!

I've been reading online about EGR issues on these cars and I -think- almost everything I'm experiencing is down to the EGR, or at least I hope.

I wanted to buy an EGR online and replace it myself, however, I've heard conflicting reports that it needs to be programmed at the dealer and then I've also heard otherwise!

Could anyone give some advice either way? I'd love to just blank the EGR off, but I've also read that you can't do that on Euro4 cars like mine.

[Dancake]

You'd ideally need to get the codes read before buying any replacement parts. Your symptoms could be caused by your EGR valve if it has stuck in the open position, but then again there are multiple possible causes of your symptoms, some of which could involve a lot of expense. I've never had to program an EGR after replacement. The ECM soon learns the new values and adapts the way it runs the engine to suit the new values. Even if you did need to program the EGR to the car, it's not something I'd imagine you'd need to go to Volvo for. Give me a shout if you want your codes read.

[Paddy94]

Originally Posted by Dancake

You'd ideally need to get the codes read before buying any replacement parts. Your symptoms could be caused by your EGR valve if it has stuck in the open position, but then again there are multiple possible causes of your symptoms, some of which could involve a lot of expense. I've never had to program an EGR after replacement. The ECM soon learns the new values and adapts the way it runs the engine to suit the new values. Even if you did need to program the EGR to the car, it's not something I'd imagine you'd need to go to Volvo for. Give me a shout if you want your codes read.

Thanks for the quick reply, nice to see a fellow Belfast man on here! I'll definitely keep your offer on the table, I really appreciate it!

[Paddy94]

Hey guys, just another quick EGR question. Would it be possible to blank off the EGR in my car? It's a Euro4 2009 2.0D without a DPF, I emailed Volvo directly and they confirmed that I don't have a DPF, so that's a plus at least!

I've searched around on the forums here and found mixed answers, some say yes you can, others say nope not possible.

Just looking for a straight answer here

[hoks]

Originally Posted by Paddy94

Hey guys, just another quick EGR question. Would it be possible to blank off the EGR in my car? It's a Euro4 2009 2.0D without a DPF, I emailed Volvo directly and they confirmed that I don't have a DPF, so that's a plus at least!

I've searched around on the forums here and found mixed answers, some say yes you can, others say nope not possible.

Just looking for a straight answer here

Sorry for not a straight answer but i find this EGR blocking interesting.

From what I have read it seems that you can easily block if your car has throttle body with single flap. I have a car with throttle body with 2 flaps (mostly described that EGR on engines with this can not be blanked) and i had blanked EGR for couple of thousand kilometers for testing and my conclusion is that engine will go in to limp mode if EGR connector is left connected, and car will store a code but no messages will appear on dash and it wont go into limp mode if connector is disconnected.

EGR blanking seems to be controversial question, but after seeing the condition of intake manifold and intake ports on cylinder head, it seems to be one evil little thing designed to choke the engine...

PS. I know it really is designed to reduce NOx emmisions...

[Petey80]

Originally Posted by Paddy94

Hey guys, just another quick EGR question. Would it be possible to blank off the EGR in my car? It's a Euro4 2009 2.0D without a DPF, I emailed Volvo directly and they confirmed that I don't have a DPF, so that's a plus at least!

I've searched around on the forums here and found mixed answers, some say yes you can, others say nope not possible.

Just looking for a straight answer here

A lot of people with your engine have used this EGR blank from e-bay with no issues;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-C30...Kz-W:rk:7:pf:0

[Petey80]

To answer your other question about programming a new EGR, there is an option in Vida to reset the adaptations for it after installing a new one.

But if like what Dancake says, the ECM automatically learns the new values, it may not need doing.

[Paddy94]

Originally Posted by Petey80

A lot of people with your engine have used this EGR blank from e-bay with no issues;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-C30...Kz-W:rk:7:pf:0

Thanks for the reply, just wondering though, what's the difference between this blanking kit and just one of the plates that slides between the EGR pipe and the EGR unit? Is there some better benefit to remove the pipe and blank both the intake and EGR unit?

[The Thong]

I had this issue, Mis-starts and black smoking under acceleration. I cleaned the butterfly housing and blanked my EGR. The Mis-starts stopped, the smoking under acceleration stopped, mpg improved and the car was generally better.





You can either have a partial blanking plate and you can leave your EGR plugged in or have the full blanking plate but you’ll have to unplug the EGR otherwise you’ll get an engine light but it won’t cause the car to go into crawl home mode. Unplugging the EGR won’t cause any issues and your motor will run fine.
The blanking plate inserts between the silver pipe that connects the EGR to the induction and the EGR itself at the back of the engine. It’s a 15min job, dead easy.

TT

[The Thong]

Originally Posted by Paddy94

Thanks for the reply, just wondering though, what's the difference between this blanking kit and just one of the plates that slides between the EGR pipe and the EGR unit? Is there some better benefit to remove the pipe and blank both the intake and EGR unit?

Just get the blanking plate and block it off. Don’t bother removing the EGR, it won’t cause any issues and it’ll look standard.

TT