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Swirl Chamber operating arm

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Old May 4th, 2010, 19:29   #21
JulesC70
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Default Swirl Arm

Hi Did anyone manage to make a substitute

Cheers

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Old May 12th, 2010, 22:37   #22
volvotech
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Default replacement arm

you have to buy a gasket at 15.00 the swirl throttle disc assy at 64.00 and the link to the arm for 1.90 ish, takes 2 hrs to do and very easy, but if your injectors are siezed in your into special tools to remove them, hence the cost mate.
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Old May 12th, 2010, 23:26   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvotech View Post
you have to buy a gasket at 15.00 the swirl throttle disc assy at 64.00 and the link to the arm for 1.90 ish, takes 2 hrs to do and very easy, but if your injectors are siezed in your into special tools to remove them, hence the cost mate.
You dont need the rubber gasket its reusable but you DO need new injector clamp kits as they are springs which deform to keep a uniform pressure holding the injector down and also new injector fuel pipes they can only be used once as they form themselves to each individual injector to seal ....
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Old May 16th, 2010, 18:07   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
You dont need the rubber gasket its reusable but you DO need new injector clamp kits as they are springs which deform to keep a uniform pressure holding the injector down and also new injector fuel pipes they can only be used once as they form themselves to each individual injector to seal ....
This is what my local dealer quoted to me also. I can't remember all the parts, but cost was over £200 and did include (as well as the swirl valve assembly) new fuel supply pipes, injector clamp kit and I think injector seal kit.

I suppose you could try and re-use old parts, but I personally wouldn't. The risk of a leak and possible disasterous consequences of a resulting fire outweigh the cost!
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Old May 17th, 2010, 11:15   #25
V70D5AWDSE
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Default D5 Swirl Arm

Hi,
Not quite the same problem, my car is just over three years old, having travelled only 27,000 miles. The ball joint on the engine side of the arm is just loose in the cup mounted to the engine and hence pops out when you accelerate.
I have just been quoted £630.00 by Jonsons Volvo in Hereford to fix this problem.
Based on the forum I will seek a second opinion.

Many thanks,
Ian.
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Old May 18th, 2010, 07:12   #26
bic1
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Default Make a bump stop!

Do this: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=92301
costs pennies and will last forever.
The only time I had a problem with it was when the rubber stop dropped off with engine heat. Other than that, it's now been fine for over 12,000 miles
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Old May 18th, 2010, 22:17   #27
Beavis
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my volvo crude make-do fix which involves drilling and pinning the arm has failed after 3 months.

will now attempt to open the hole out a bit and bolt it and fix the nut with araldite. will then try ad do a similar buffer to that mentioned above.

incidentially, my problem reoccured whilst downshifting in the geartronic and the warning triangle flashed up, but has luckily not gone into limp-home mode.

will let you know how the fix goes.
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Old May 20th, 2010, 16:18   #28
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I also have the same problem with my 55 plate 2.4D, which to be honest I'm not especially happy about as the design is very poor.
Anyway, I am going to do the same as bic1 with the bracket acting as a bump stop, but in the meantime I decided to do a temporary repair that seems to be holding up fine and is pretty simple.
Essentially it is the same method as has been mentioned on numerous occasions on the forum, but instead of attempting to drill the 'lever' part of the mechanism on the engine, instead I took a 2mm nail and heated it to red hot and passed it through the plastic lever (on the engine) as centrally as possible to where the ball joint fits inside the cup.
I then drilled a 2mm hole through the ball joint end of the arm and fitted a 1.5mm split pin through both parts and carefully splayed the end of the pin. One thing I did have to do in addition is flatten the head of the split pin as it fouled the alloy of the head when it retracted.
This literally took me about 15 minutes to do and so far has held up fine.
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Old May 24th, 2010, 22:48   #29
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Hi Bic1.

i have just copied your repair with the alluminium corner sheet and it looks a top repair.

had to remove the cam belt cover, to get a bit more of a straight angle on the screw, managed to open the hole up to 3mm on the swirl throttle plastic flap so it would take a M3 bolt, cut to about 18 mm. couple of washers followed by the Swirl throttle Plastic Arm, a Nut fixed in place with araldite - job done.

took about 1 hour - mainly because it is so fiddly, but fixing is now secure. i have also copied Bic1 ( http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=92301) to provide the bump stop for the powered throttle arm.

touch wood - has been fine for the last 3 days.......

cost - volvo repair ???
DIY cost
£8 for 2 metre alluminium length (B&Q) also sell 1 meter for £5 ish
£3.50 for the rubber drawer stops to provide bump stop
£3.50 Maplin (330 tiny bolt set - i now have 100 bolts to rectify errors for the next 100 cars where the manufacturer has c0cked up on their design)
araldite - in the drawer

£15 and a bit of cursing and wishing i had the fingers of a 5 year old.

job done.
DSC_5623.jpg

DSC_5624.jpg

DSC_5625.jpg

DSC_5627.jpg

DSC_5629.jpg
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Old May 24th, 2010, 23:01   #30
Lozza
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Nice job, great photos... I was looking at mine the other day and thinking
'It really isn't very substantial is it...'

As yet, touch wood, I haven't needed to mess with it, but it's at the back of my mind ready...
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