Lowering Springs. Is It Simple?

Hi There Me Again!
I'm Going To Buy A Set Of Lowering Springs For My V40. Is It A Simple Matter Of Just Replaceing The Springs Or Is There Any Other Adjustments That Must Be Made. Seen A Set Of Pi's For £104 Anyone Used These?

Cheers

Andy

[Rooster]

Depends what you mean as simple, there abit harder to do that say 850's etc as the springs are round the shocker both front and rear,

It might be advisable to get a 4 wheel alingment done after its been lowered to make sure tracking etc all still ok (it knocked mine out a mile on rear end),

If you can put up with a little tyre scrubage, when its lined up get some camber on rear wheels, not much a degrees plenty and it will handle even better,

I've got pi springs on mine on standard shocks altho there getting a little tired its not bad ride altho i woldn't believe the 30mm drop it says on the box as pi springs usually go lower than they say

[loopy]

try spax you get them from halfords look at my gallery it droped 40 mm and handles brill and is comfy to drive to

[Big T]

I also run PI springs with standard shocks like Rooster, however i went for the 50mm drop on the front and 25mm drop on the back!!!

I managed to fit em meself with a lot of cursing I might add!!

I just got the front wheels re-alingned!!

[purplebargeken]

Hi. Thinking of replacing the tired shocks on my 740GL saloon (1989). What do people recommend that gives improved ride/handling but ain't going to break the piggy bank. Is spring replacement at the same time a worthwhile thing to do? Would Braydons do all of this? If so, does anyone have their contact details (cant find it on the web for some reason).

Cheers

Ken

[rogerthechorister]

Yes, I'm interested in teh answer to that too.

[foggyjames]

Gas shocks from a turbo model are probably the best bang-for-buck. Beyond that, the entry-level Bilsteins are a reasonable upgrade for not toooo much cash. The Bilstein Sport kit is the dog's danglies, but it's reasonably dear.

You could change the springs too, and estate rear ones are usually shot by this age. OEM spec ones are available from various places (GSF, Euro Car Parts, stealership, etc), and lowering ones aren't usually too pricey.

As for Braydon...Google is your friend... http://www.braydonmotors.co.uk/

cheers

James

[purplebargeken]

Thanks for that. I've just sent them an email asking about specs and prices. I'll post the outcome when I hear from them.

Cheers

Ken

[mharriso]

OK just dropped the S40 35mm all round on the weekend... 4th car i've done now.. here's some points....

1:-
Get a haynes manual, its not all singing / dancing but is is a good guide...
read the relevent section completly before starting work... doesn't hurt to read associated sections either..

2:-
The fronts are easy, nut and bolt job. However, pay attention to alignment of the assembly when you remove and mark everything top plates, seat, shock body etc, so when you reassemble you maintain the alignment, a note the 3 hole in the top plate have to align to the x3 bolt holes in the lower springseat, unless sport model then there is a 20 degree rotation, se haynes manual for detail...
Also at your own discetion, replace the nuts; shock piston nut and lower fixings x2..
You will need spring compressors... and some patience... these can be tricky make sure they are sqaure to teh shock otherwise the compressor tangs can creep up the shock and suddenly release the spring.. ouch....(do this job away from expensive stuff, if something goes flying you don't want it smashig up your pride and joy....
Also make sure you have a torque wrench that covers a range of 45 thru 90Nm.. you may need x2 lower and higher torque...see haynes for detail...
While you have them apart, confirm the steering top mount bearings.. if they are sloppy replace.. if not clean out and re grease....
Clean everything when you take it apart.. you won't get as good a chance again......particularly debris in the shock lower plate... lets water out and stops corrosion.....
Also i removed the x2 large mass dampers bolted (x3 smal allen bolts) to the lower spring plate.. remove weight (6kg!!) .... i have detected no difference in ride of comfort from this.. no harmonics (vibrations) appered either...

3:/
The rears are also relatively straightforward BUT:-
Mark up the shock for alignment before removing....paint pen is good...
Note the order and oreintation of parts assembly, topcap / washer / topplate, spring seat bush...etc
THIS BIT IS IMPORANT
The rear suspension was assembled at factory in a position that simulates the mass of the car on the suspension, i.e. main suspension bushes are loaded before the mountings etc are tightened... as such if you lower the car with new springs,changing the geometry without resetting the bushes in a neutral position, the torsion in the bushes will fatigue the bushes and impair the ride... to do it right, follow the haynes comments; loose assembly and then tighten with the cars load on the wheels.. note in the garage the access to do this can be tough if your not skinny....(i.e under the car after lowering...)
Also follow tips re settling the spring before tightening,.. the rear boot lip is great for standing on and bouncing up and down.....

Also a general note, feel free to use silicon spray on rubber parts to metal... it can help prevent squeaking....
also anti sieze on bolt threads who knows when you may have to come back and work on it again....

After you are done get a four wheel alignment check: tow and camber(25pounds or so.). you will save the cost in the tyres you will not destroy and get the handling improvement you were after....
Depending on how much you modify the car the factory adjstment for camber etc may not be able to get you back to dead center standard geomerty .... however at 35mm it is possible to be in range...
If this is a concen or you are going alot lower; correction kits are available... not sure cost...

Hope this helps.....