New owner - cambelt advice required - Page 2

wesacosa · Jan 3rd, 2020, 10:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by emtor

Front engine mount needs to be removed, so be prepared to clean up the threads before re-installing the bolts. I could not get mine back in without the help of a tap and die.

good call, thanks for the tip

wesacosa · Jan 3rd, 2020, 13:13

was it the bolts into the chassis or bolts into the bracket on engine side which needed the tap and die?

wesacosa · Jan 3rd, 2020, 18:41

This belt saga turning into a nightmare already and I not even wielded a spanner yet!
I still cant seem to find an answer on the 142 V 148 teeth Surely there must be a way to tell without having to count
I phoned Volvo dealer and gave my reg and they said there was only one cambelt kit for that car
30758261. Doing some googling of that it says it has a 142 tooth. So I bought a ContiTech kit with 142 tooth but on the box it says its only for cars up to 05/2000 . Mine is a late 2001. All the suppliers seem to give engine number to and from , but these seem to be only for the Turbo engine
Seems like such a faff to have to take bits of the car apart to count the teeth.

Edit: just realised the engine number on V5 is different to the serial number. Perhaps this serial number might help

Edit 2: Ok so looks like the serial number of the engine tallies with the 142 tooth kit, so only the date on the box saying only suitable for up to 05/2000 is confusing the matter

wesacosa · Jan 8th, 2020, 19:58

well the belt change isn't going as smoothly as I hoped. I bought a universal cam locking tool which fits between the two pulleys but it was useless so I thought I would try without one using the timing marks and some additional tippex ones I made. From a video I saw on YouTube I was expecting the cam with the VVT to spring a fair bit off its marks when the belt was released but that only shifted about half a tooth. However the non VVT cam sprung about 5 teeth off its marks in a clockwise direction. I assume this is the valve springs knocking it around but really wasn't expecting that much. Bit dark now so had to come inside but am I going to easily turn it back to its marks of have I messed it up ?

thanks
Wes

LTEcactus · Jan 16th, 2020, 14:21

Quick question, what's the interval for a timing belt change on the phase II 1.8i model?
How much is it likely to be, if I got it done at a garage?

wesacosa · Jan 19th, 2020, 15:10

I am having an absolutely awful time with this cambelt. I can't even think how many hours I have been at it

I get everything back together, lined up tensioned as per the procedure. However when I run the engine the belt wanders down to the back of the crank pulley sprocket and the tensioner. I have had the belt off and on three time and the tensioner set maybe ten times and every time the same, all lines up statically in the center of the pulleys but as soon as I start it the belt wanders to the rear face of the spockets.

I am at my wits end, just don't know how to sort it
anyone seen anything like this before
many thanks

magnuz · Jan 19th, 2020, 18:48

Did it run out of line before you changed it?
Have you fitted new tensioners ?
I would have thought, the only thing that would cause it, is if the tensioner or idler pulley bearings have a lot of play in them, or the tensioners, or idler pulley are not seated properly, or somehow wrongly positioned , Or if the water pump has excessive play on the pulley ?

wesacosa · Jan 19th, 2020, 20:46

the marks on the pulleys suggests it ran centrally last time.
I didn't touch the water pump but didn't seem any free play
I ran it with old tensioner back on and didn't fix
Will have to check the idler next but got cold and fed up!

Would anything in the belt seating process or tensioning cause it, or purely hardware?

ITSv40 · Jan 19th, 2020, 21:29

It seems the only things left that were not original - as swapping the tensioner hasn't altered it - is the idler pulley or you have a duff new belt that isn't running true.

wesacosa · Jan 19th, 2020, 21:37

I did wonder about the belt, but it doesn't wander around the pulley too much. Just walks down the pulleys and stays there
Agree if its hardware related it looks like the idler , but my worry is if its something I did in the fitting and tensioning, as its first belt change I did

I set the crank to intake cam side pretty taught ( by turning intake pulley a fraction of a tooth to take up the slack, as I say I didn't use holding tools so the VCT sprunt off its mark and needed turning back). Perhaps I pulled it too tight?
Lesson next time is get proper tools so I can at least eliminate anything moving slightly!

Jan 3rd, 2020, 18:41	#13
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	This belt saga turning into a nightmare already and I not even wielded a spanner yet! I still cant seem to find an answer on the 142 V 148 teeth Surely there must be a way to tell without having to count I phoned Volvo dealer and gave my reg and they said there was only one cambelt kit for that car 30758261. Doing some googling of that it says it has a 142 tooth. So I bought a ContiTech kit with 142 tooth but on the box it says its only for cars up to 05/2000 . Mine is a late 2001. All the suppliers seem to give engine number to and from , but these seem to be only for the Turbo engine Seems like such a faff to have to take bits of the car apart to count the teeth. Edit: just realised the engine number on V5 is different to the serial number. Perhaps this serial number might help Edit 2: Ok so looks like the serial number of the engine tallies with the 142 tooth kit, so only the date on the box saying only suitable for up to 05/2000 is confusing the matter Last edited by wesacosa; Jan 3rd, 2020 at 20:41.

Jan 8th, 2020, 19:58	#14
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	well the belt change isn't going as smoothly as I hoped. I bought a universal cam locking tool which fits between the two pulleys but it was useless so I thought I would try without one using the timing marks and some additional tippex ones I made. From a video I saw on YouTube I was expecting the cam with the VVT to spring a fair bit off its marks when the belt was released but that only shifted about half a tooth. However the non VVT cam sprung about 5 teeth off its marks in a clockwise direction. I assume this is the valve springs knocking it around but really wasn't expecting that much. Bit dark now so had to come inside but am I going to easily turn it back to its marks of have I messed it up ? thanks Wes Last edited by wesacosa; Jan 8th, 2020 at 20:08.

Jan 19th, 2020, 21:29	#19
ITSv40 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:32 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Northampton	It seems the only things left that were not original - as swapping the tensioner hasn't altered it - is the idler pulley or you have a duff new belt that isn't running true. __________________ 2001 V40 2.0lt Sport lux - Daily Driver. 174k miles. 2003 C70 2.4 GT Convertible - Garage Queen. 65k miles. http://www.neptuno6benagil.com

Jan 3rd, 2020, 13:13	#12
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	was it the bolts into the chassis or bolts into the bracket on engine side which needed the tap and die?

Jan 16th, 2020, 14:21	#15
LTEcactus Junior Member Last Online: Jan 19th, 2024 15:15 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Leicester View Photos By: LTEcactus	Quick question, what's the interval for a timing belt change on the phase II 1.8i model? How much is it likely to be, if I got it done at a garage?

Jan 19th, 2020, 15:10	#16
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	I am having an absolutely awful time with this cambelt. I can't even think how many hours I have been at it I get everything back together, lined up tensioned as per the procedure. However when I run the engine the belt wanders down to the back of the crank pulley sprocket and the tensioner. I have had the belt off and on three time and the tensioner set maybe ten times and every time the same, all lines up statically in the center of the pulleys but as soon as I start it the belt wanders to the rear face of the spockets. I am at my wits end, just don't know how to sort it anyone seen anything like this before many thanks

Jan 19th, 2020, 18:48	#17
magnuz Ancient Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 17:03 Join Date: May 2012 Location: chesterfield	Did it run out of line before you changed it? Have you fitted new tensioners ? I would have thought, the only thing that would cause it, is if the tensioner or idler pulley bearings have a lot of play in them, or the tensioners, or idler pulley are not seated properly, or somehow wrongly positioned , Or if the water pump has excessive play on the pulley ?

Jan 19th, 2020, 20:46	#18
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	the marks on the pulleys suggests it ran centrally last time. I didn't touch the water pump but didn't seem any free play I ran it with old tensioner back on and didn't fix Will have to check the idler next but got cold and fed up! Would anything in the belt seating process or tensioning cause it, or purely hardware?

Jan 19th, 2020, 21:37	#20
wesacosa New Member Last Online: Apr 6th, 2021 19:39 Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: LONDON	I did wonder about the belt, but it doesn't wander around the pulley too much. Just walks down the pulleys and stays there Agree if its hardware related it looks like the idler , but my worry is if its something I did in the fitting and tensioning, as its first belt change I did I set the crank to intake cam side pretty taught ( by turning intake pulley a fraction of a tooth to take up the slack, as I say I didn't use holding tools so the VCT sprunt off its mark and needed turning back). Perhaps I pulled it too tight? Lesson next time is get proper tools so I can at least eliminate anything moving slightly!

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