ongoing stalling saga (quite long post)

Hi Peter,

Thanks so much for yor help so far. I don't know how to call you. I can get my Dad to tell you exactly what is going on rather than me trying to explain it 3rd person :-)

[Peter D]

Look at your emails I have sent ir to you. Regards Peter

Sorry to be a real pain in the wotsit, I don;t have the email address I signed up with a few months ago as I changed isps.
Would be able to send me a private message on the website or email beck@photoscene.co.uk

Many thanks Peter, I owe you massive for trying to help out so much, its rare someone would accept a personal call. :-)

[Peter D]

Now assumming you are correct and you have a spark then I suspect the fuel pump relay. This relay has two functions. Firstly it fires up the pumps then stops them if the ECU detects the engine is not running. A second relay power out on pin 4 turns on the power feed to the Injectors, ICV and AMM. Now if that relay section is faulty then this could cause your problem. To Check for this measure the voltage at either the Idle control valve, pin 5 ( LH 2.4 ) of the air mass meter or pin 3 ( LH 3.1 ) Now although this may measure 12 Volts or so with the ignition on use a 12V bulb ( 21 w flasher or brake light bulb ) and check that this feed can deliver current. DO NOT MISS THIS CHECK. Also check the illunination of the bulb whilst cranking. Regards Peter

Peter, you are one of the kindest people I have met on the net. Thanks so much for taking the call, it is very much appreciated.

I am not forgetting everyone else, you have all helped so immensely. Thankyou all for your time.

I shall keep you posted on how things are going, hopefully we can get this thing licked.

[Peter D]

As you have identifed a 6 pin AMM then this implies it is a LH2.4 and the ECU part number will confirm that. However this means it should have a microswitche throttle position sensor so check that is operating as per the manual you have. One switch is open at tickover and one closed, crack the throttle open and one closes them at full thottle the other one opens. Measure these and check. If you get resistances between the pins then you have a LH 3.1 I refer to pages 4A-29 and 4A-30.

The other tests we discussed are valid for either system.

Regards Peter

[Peter D]

To assist other. Yes the resistance scaling was not accounted for thus the incorrect resistance readings. Regards Peter

Just a stab in the dark here, but could a leaky gasket on the throttle body cause a no start situation?
When we cleaned removed the throttle body the other day to clean it, the gasket got a slight tear in it. Seems a bit of a coincidence that the following morning the prolems got all serious with no starts.

This car is such a contrary git.
Left the car in the car park overnight as yesterday could not be started. Brought home with him the ignition module, battery and the source cable thing (cant recall its name).
This morning he goes back, puts the parts back in and the car starts first time, not even a single splutter.
Its just so bizarre. It probably is not fixed but has a temporary reprieve, for now.

[Peter D]

I would expect the car to at least try and start but poor idle and lumpy running. I got the impression the car had been running for some time after the throttle body was cleaned. Did it start up after this was done. ?? You will need a replacement gasket and carefull assemble of the throttle body and associated parts and pipework. Lets aslo answer the other questions about throttle position switches and the like so we know what system you have. You have changed a lot of things so the picture is not clear. I'm afraid my Father-In-Law past away last night so I will be here today but may be travelling down to Wales Tuesday so I will be away from my PC but will log in remotely later that week. Call today if I can help. Regards Peter