Fuse #1 Missing or ...

[StPeteAPB]

Fuse #1, I noticed today, is missing. Yet, when I install a (10A) fuse in that slot, my Generator light goes on and the key is OFF.

ref of fuse #1:

Ideas??

Note: I put only a 10A fuse in to begin with just to play it safe in case it was removed for a reason. I am the latest owner of this '65 1800S, so that it why this finding is new and unknown to me.

[Ron Kwas]

APB; (A Name would be nice!)

Welcome to this forum!

Your symptoms are quite unusual, and by leaving Fuse 1 uninstalled, the seller has effectively, hidden an electrical problem from you, because when Ign is OFF, Charging Control Indicator is not powered, and should never light up! Given this condition, for purposes of troubleshooting, very little can be presumed to be correct at the outset!

I started to write an involved explanation and suggested troubleshooting steps, but then it was all based on my assumption that all was normally connected as a starting point, and that is not the case...so I must back up and say FIRST, you must explain all you know for certain about this vehicle's condition...including any known deviations of the electrical system from stock...and if nothing is known or for certain, we must start any troubleshooting there...mention also how much corrosion is evident (because this could mean things look connected, but really aren't)...

Note: You have used a picture from the SW-EM site as a reference, it is respectful practice, as well as common courtesy IMO to attribute the source, as I have to the photographer.

Cheers from Connecticut!

[StPeteAPB]

Hi Ron,

It's Alan - we've been emailing. Apologies for not more detailing the source of the photo from SW-EM.com

Yes, there is something odd about this wiring. I don't know if Shane A did the wiring before he sold the car or if it's been further manipulated since.

What I did learn this morning is that if I put in that missing fuse, not only is my Generator light illuminating, but it is indeed turning on the ignition (as if the key was in position #3), because my windshield wipers are now functioning in the key-off position.

I wonder if EVERYTHING that was supposed to come off of Fuse #3 has been moved to Fuse #2 carrying the entire load?

One thing I noticed in the schematic for this car is that one of those fuses feeds the clock. I left that fuse in there for five minutes to see the if the clock worked, as it's not been working? The clock did not budge.

Thanks, Ron, for any feedback you can offer. I wonder if my next project is a full wiring harness replacement? $800 "investment" to change out the wiring for OEM:
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...harness-65-68/

[Ron Kwas]

Alan;

"if I put in that missing fuse, not only is my Generator light illuminating, but it is indeed turning on the ignition (as if the key was in position #3), because my windshield wipers are now functioning in the key-off position."
...this suggests that the Ign powered node being incorrectly under Batt power, when that should be a function of the Ign Sw. I suggest you have a well-lit look at the back of Ign Sw, and assure the Wht wire(s), which should be on Term 54, has(ve) not erroneously been placed on Term30 (which should have just one fat Brn wire, Ref https://www.sw-em.com/Wiring_Diagram...Wiring_Diagram Item 42)...if you find the wiring error there, great! correction will be a simple fix...but Ign Sw itself MAY have a problem, or incorrect wiring may have also exist in the area of Fuseblock...we will need to work carefully and methodically...one step at a time! If you are stateside, you might want to e-mail me with your phone number...a real-time discussion will be more efficient!

Please also confirm: Ign Sw/Armored Cable/Ign Coil is standard and has not been changed. Fuseblock has not been changed. Any other known changes to Elec or Chg Sys.

Resolving this, and returning the wiring to standard will take some careful troubleshooting, but I don't think you are to the point of replacing the entire harness just yet!...that would be misspent effort akin to doing an engine rebuild when a simple Distributor tuneup is all that's required.

Tip: Since wiring is not correct at this time, and as far as I'm concerned, nothing can be trusted until confirmed, I recommend disconnecting Batt when not working on the car...we wouldn't want to inadvertently power up (and possibly heat or even overheat) things, OR drain the Batt needlessly!

Thanks for understanding about my earlier comments!

Cheers

[StPeteAPB]

Ron,

I'll email you again, later. You should already have an email from me about this issue.

The coil and distributor are new as of Saturday and the armored cable is no more. That embedded wire goes to the (+) terminal of the new Bosch Blue coil.

I'll check the wiring under the dash a little later or during the week. The "gymnastics" to contort my body to see things under this has worn me out, as of late ;-)

[StPeteAPB]

Ron: I emailed you pictures of the wiring under the hood and behind the ignition switch.

According to this image:
https://volvo1800pictures.com/docume...itch_1800S.pdf

And, looking at the images I sent you:

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The wiring on the ignition switch is in proper order.

I think there is a whole lot of monkey business going on around the fuse block for fuses #1 and #2 that have put many, if not all, of the wires on Fuse #2.