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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Feb 23rd, 2016, 12:01 | #1 |
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Alternators
Hi
I have a hunch that my alternator is on the way out. The heater fan struggles unless the engine is high revving (full choke or booting it) and there is now a whistling / whining noise and it's either the alternator or the Borg Warner.....that'll be fun if it is!!! What a good way of checking? I have a multi-meter but don't really understand how it works???? It's the Bosch K1 on a 1970 144 Thanks
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Mar 1st, 2016, 13:39 | #2 |
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I've had the Borg Warner looked at - it's not that, thank God.
Any ideas on the alternator??? anyone??
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Mar 1st, 2016, 17:50 | #3 |
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What does your multi meter say the alternator is doing?
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Mar 1st, 2016, 22:31 | #4 |
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Very grateful for you getting back to me.
That's the problem, I have no idea how the meter it works. Am I reading volts, amps or ohms? I worked out how to measure volts from the battery with it just cos even I know polarity and that it should be 14 volts and it is indeed 14.5v What should i set the meter to, what do i put the probes on and what should it say Lots of dickless questions, i know. Thanks a million
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Mar 2nd, 2016, 00:16 | #5 |
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The meter typically should have a revolving dial with different options for amps, resistance and voltage. Is it digital? If not I suggest buying a basic digital model new, only about £20.
I had an alternator pack up on a Fiat not long ago. At first I thought it was the voltage regulator but alternator it was. The Haynes manual shows you the basics of the alternator and charging system; as you said you should get 14.5 volts. Electrics aren't my strong point; however I've found 90% of faults are due to bad earthing, poorly soldered joints, corrosion . Being able to test continuity and measuring resistance are very useful and simple ways to pinpoint problems without resorting to pulling things apart. Sorry I can't be of more assistance; I'm lucky to have help on cars; at least for now!
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1973 Volvo 164. 1972 Saab 96 1988 Benz W124 230E 2012 VW Transporter T5 LWB |
Mar 2nd, 2016, 00:22 | #6 |
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...and beware of the high tension part of your car's electrical system!
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1973 Volvo 164. 1972 Saab 96 1988 Benz W124 230E 2012 VW Transporter T5 LWB |
Mar 2nd, 2016, 08:01 | #7 |
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Thanks guys; I will see if youtube has a dummy's guide
This whining / singing / squealing noise is definitely under the bonnet; I've tried a wooden spoon to my ear but can't tell where it's coming from. The combination of the noise, plus lack of power to the heater fan is directing me to the alternator but maybe not???? cheers
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Mar 2nd, 2016, 09:18 | #8 |
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Mar 2nd, 2016, 11:04 | #9 |
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fantastic - thanks Mr. Swede!!
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Mar 4th, 2016, 19:22 | #10 |
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Hi, I studied the tutorial on youtube and tested mine, with the following results.
Using a decent enough digital multi meter; with enigine at running temperature Engine off and no electrics on = 13.25V Engine on and no electrics on = 14.25V Still engine running, with full beam, hazards, radio and wipers on full = 12.85V Engine switched off and electric items all off = 12.90V I then did the 'voltage drop test' as described in the video and there was no problem there. But with those readings, am I looking at a weak or dying alternator. Thanks alot for any help
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
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