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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Water Pump LeakViews : 592 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 9th, 2019, 14:16 | #1 |
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Last Online: Jan 5th, 2024 12:50
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Location: Portsmouth
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Water Pump Leak
Chaps,
Since changing my radiator and water pump last summer all has been well. This morning I drove to work without an issue but it looks like the car's dropped a large amount of its coolant via the pump-to-head rubber seal on the top of the pump. This was confirmed when I added some more coolant and had it basically streaming out the top of the pump. Now, I'm guessing this is due to shrinkage of the rubber gasket at the top of the pump in the cold weather (we had our first hard frost last night), is there anything I can do to help it short of stripping the front of the engine down and trying to squeeze the pump up closer to the head? I need to use the car this weekend so this will have to happen in the next couple of evenings in the dark and basically I'd really rather leave it until I can see properly. Any ideas? Might some radiator stop-leak help just to see it through until Sunday? Any help greatly appreciated, Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) |
Jan 9th, 2019, 14:35 | #2 |
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Last Online: Apr 8th, 2020 06:40
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Location: Beverley
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Not everyone one will agree but I’ve used Barr’s Seal without any problem for over 20 years, ultimately you need th redo the rubber seals. Good Luck
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Jan 9th, 2019, 15:21 | #3 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 20:26
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“Streaming out the top of the pump”
Sounds as if the leak is too far gone to use any sealant – I wouldn’t chance it for obvious reasons, it isn’t a major task to replace this seal on the 240 and the potential overheating damage can be avoided. Good Luck Bob |
Jan 9th, 2019, 15:27 | #4 |
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Thanks for the feedback chaps.
By my earlier comments I meant that I could fill up the system so it was above the top of the pump, squeeze the top coolant pipe (as you do to get air out the system) and see the water being squeezed out of the pump through the gap between the pump seal and the head. If sealant's out of the question, could anyone remind me the best way to get a good seal between the pump and the head? I have a feeling that if I can get a better seal then it should solve this problem but when i changed the pump I remember it being really, really hard to get that seal compressed. Thanks Alex EDIT: I've just found an article which answers this exact question: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/WaterPumpChange.html "...using a 12-18" pry bar or screw driver, lever against the bottom-most portion of the pump and the crankshaft pulley or power steering pump and lift the pump upward. You need to get compression on that flanged o-ring." I'll give this a try tonight if I get a minute!
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) Last edited by AlexO; Jan 9th, 2019 at 15:45. Reason: I'm a fool |
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Jan 9th, 2019, 16:26 | #5 |
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Last Online: Apr 8th, 2020 06:40
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You need to lever the pump body up to get a good seal using a piece of wood from memory , prior to tightening the pump bolts ,...think I vaselined the rubber seal at the top. Good luck .
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Jan 9th, 2019, 19:47 | #6 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Yesterday 10:11
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
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I don't think you can merely rely on slackening the bolts and levering the pump upwards - I think that might risk breaking the seal of the main gasket and causing another leak.
You really don't want to risk losing water at that rate - if the engine overheats you risk distorting the cylinder head, and then more leaks. I once had a top rubber seal blow out without warning. There had been no previous leaks, but fortunately at very low speed I noticed the bonnet engulfed in steam the temperature gauge rise to maximum. I stopped immediately and found a torrent of water pouring out of the top of the pump. It's tricky operation replacing the seal - you need three hands. Keep the pump firmly levered upwards without slipping until you have all the bolts tightened fully. If they aren't tight the pump will slip down and the pressure on the seal lost. |
Jan 11th, 2019, 10:55 | #7 |
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So good news and bad news.
Good news: the car is driveable without too much faff and I know why it was leaking. Bad news: it was leaking because the bottom two bolts on the water pump are sheared at the block. I drained down the system and went to take the pump off to get some sealant on the joints and what happened? Two bolts and one nut came off with the ratchet, two bolts just fell out. Any guesses on why it was leaking? Luckily I managed to reassemble the whole thing with enough hylamore blue that it now seems to be vaguely sealed. It's weeping, obviously, and I'll have to keep a close eye on the coolant level, but it's enough to get me from A to B until I can have a crack at it next weekend with my brother. Bolt extractor and new gasket set is in the post. The fun continues. Cheers for all the help, Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) |
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