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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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error code P0013 most likely cause?Views : 8777 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 28th, 2013, 16:52 | #1 |
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error code P0013 most likely cause?
Hi,
Has anyone encountered this error? P0013 - "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit Bank 1 Just trying to figure out most likely scenario. Apparently this could be related to a) the cvvt solenoid or the camshaft position sensor. Any experiences to share? |
Aug 28th, 2013, 18:03 | #2 |
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have found this which may give some mre guidance for you
http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...em/0060015.pdf |
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Aug 28th, 2013, 18:11 | #3 |
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Deja vu
This is getting ridiculous now..... Fifth person with similar issues this month. Indeed it points towards either the camshaft sensor or the VVT solenoid. However, before you go ahead replacing bits, could you try something? After reading a couple of recent posts, I am wondering if a weaker battery could be causing this. If you have access to a known good battery, can you try it on your car and see if the code comes up?
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Aug 28th, 2013, 20:19 | #4 |
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I'll give it a shot...the battery is only 6 months old but you never know. Will let you know the outcome. May be a little while, I still haven't finished with dealing with rear suspension.
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Sep 13th, 2013, 16:40 | #5 |
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P0013 - Follow-up - Solenoid/Position Sensor and PCV
Alright here's a follow up for you...
I caved and paid the $100CAD to get Volvo to properly diagnos and I'm glad I did. For what it's worth my symptoms were: 1) Check engine light on with P0013 showing: "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit Bank 1 2) Sporadic difficulties starting car 3) Lower fuel efficiency Volvo advised that my solenoid is toast. Sensor is fine. VVT Hub is fine. However, the root cause was a completely clogged up PCV. They are looking for seven hours labor and a total of $1200CAD to replace...ouch. Luckily a fellow forum member has taken the time to put a guide together which I've taken a look at. Appears to be a long but doable job. I have a follow-up question for anyone willing to voice an opinion. Can I wait 'til spring to get this done? Or will I run the risk of sludging up other components such as the turbo, for instance? When I did my last oil change I did notice a small amount of grime at the base of the filter cannister...may or may not be related... I definitely do not want to make anything worse but really could use some time not doing car repairs!!! Thoughts? |
Sep 30th, 2013, 18:51 | #6 |
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Solenoid troubles take II.
I replaced my pcv over the weekend and was just about to take out the solenoid and replace it when I noticed that one of the wires leading to the solenoid was totally ripped apart! So an error code of "circuit open" can sometimes mean just that - a busted wire! I share this because the root cause was that a while back, some of the black corrogated plastic tubing that protects the sparkplug coils, etc broke apart on me so I took some of it out without really thinking that I needed to replace it. Well, if you don't replace it, it becomes very, very easy for these wires to get stuck over one of the mounting bolt holes for the plastic engine cover. When this happens, you can very easily crush the wire when you put the cover back on which is what I did. Not sure how the dealership missed that seeing that you have to take the cover off to view the solenoid...anyhow, solenoid is fine, red wire is re-connected. All good. What is preferred method of reconnecting wires like this? Twist and tape? Solder? Other? |
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Jan 15th, 2019, 02:52 | #7 |
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Not tape, there are too many oil fumes and too much heat under the cover. Shrink wrap is best, but you can also use those connectors that you squeeze with pliers - the kind where you shove wire in both ends and crimp.
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Jan 15th, 2019, 19:06 | #8 |
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He's probably sussed it after nearly 6 years to be honest.
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