Mounting of bushings in reaction rods/torque rods, back axle

[Volvo Jensen]

Hello
This is my first post on the Forum of the Volvo Owners Club

I am changing the bushes in the reaction rods/torque rods (the links between body and upper side of back axle, that has four equal bushings). These are just a little more than 50% filled with rubber, with solid rubber on opposite sides, and recesses in between, about one quarter of a circle each.

Should the bushes be mounted with the solid rubber forward/backward?
This is the direction, that holds the forces of driving/acceleration/braking. But will this be felt in the car, as hard?

Or should they be mounted 90° different, with rubber up/down, and the recesses forward/backward? Are they meant to be this way, to be a bit softer?

My thought was the first mentioned. I actually have the Haynes book, and it says the other way. Can I trust this? After all, people do mistakes, and also translation could be wrong?

Please forgive if I write knotty (I'm not english, but norwegian)

[Volvo Jensen]

I've checked with the Haynes book again, and it says like "Make sure the flat side of the bushing is parallell to the rod before pressing it in".

Maybe I understood this wrong, that it rather means the solid rubber forward/backward? As on the same level, or height, as the rod? Instead of having it up/down?

[Clifford Pope]

I've always assumed it means that the solid rubber should be in line with the rod. If not then I don't see how it can control the push/pull reaction from the axle trying to twist.

The early type of rod, regarded as much sturdier than the later kind, has solid rubber round 360 degrees.

[Volvo Jensen]

Yes, I googled it, and saw several pictures of worn bushings, and also new bushings, in the rod. They were all mounted this way, rubber forward/back. That took away my doubt.

This makes sense, and is also how I thought they should be. But unnecessary cumbersome language in the book (in swedish though, but I usually understand it well) made me have some doubt, it could have been quite clear.

So I forced them in with bolt, nut and washers (a tough job, don't have a vice, just barely managed it), and then went straight to the garage, today, to show the faults on the car had been mended, and get the approval a car needs every second year.

The old bushings were mounted wrong, two with rubber up/down (these had the inner sleeve moving freely forward/backward). The two others neither up/down or front/back, but something between!

[classicswede]

Those rubber bushes do not last long.

Best bet is replace with poly or find a pair of the early arms.

[Volvo Jensen]

Well maybe not, I hope they last some years. All I know is the old ones lasted at least five or six years (I've owned the car since 2012, a "clunk" sound from the backaxle had been there for a while now). One of them had a visible stamp "Scantech". My new ones are from the producer "Optimal".

Yes, I thought of it, after having started on the job, how much easier it would have been to just change the reactionrods, if one could find some with not worn bushings. I even have a parts car!

Then you also need to know, the reactionrod came in three different lengths (according to Haynes book).

[Clifford Pope]

In my experience they last about 50,000 miles, or two years in the days when I was doing a higher mileage.

I keep a spare pair salvaged from a previous car, ready bushed. When one wears out, I just swap in the new one, and then at leisure hacksaw out the old bushes and press in new ones to go into store in readiness.

[Volvo Jensen]

I would be well satisfied with 50.000 miles/80.000 km, since they cost the equivalent of 11.22£/piece. Now I don't always opt for cheap, as I know, in general, there are much car parts with low quality on the market today. I could have gotten them from Volvo, but the price was equivalent of 42.79£/piece!

Good idea, to have a pair ready, if doing that much miles. I hope to "retire" this 240 from daily driving, in order to save it. I just haven't got the extra parking space.

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Volvo Jensen

Then you also need to know, the reactionrod came in three different lengths (according to Haynes book).

They are all the same length. Just 2 designs first early ones have solid rubber hour glass bushes. Later arms as you have are fitted with the void bushes.


Haynes can be good at getting details wrong

[Clifford Pope]

It's true Haynes does say there are three different lengths, but I suspect there is only one standard size.
Enthusiasts use different lengths to retain the axle/prop geometry when they lower the suspension. There are adjustable ones available on ebay.