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S60 D5 DPF deep clean

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Old Aug 12th, 2018, 13:26   #1
Tunneruk
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Default S60 D5 DPF deep clean

I did a search for a similar post but couldn't find one so I thought I'd start my own!

I've just bought a 2005 S60 D5 185 Euro 4 with running issues.

My first step to helping it breathe again was to clean out the DPF

I plugged it in and did a manual regeneration but it was obviously too far gone for that with sky high pressures and temperature so removal was the only option. On the way home I got the 'Soot filter full' message up on the dash.

I read many articles about the great success of flushing out the DPF rather than throwing it away. I figured I might as well try it. If it doesn't work too well then I'll have done a lot of the hard work freeing everything up etc. If I do end up replacing it it'll come apart again in minutes.

First up .... getting it out ...

Unsurprisingly it had never been out of the car so it's fixings were pretty far gone.
I employed a combination of air chisel and air grinder as there was absolutely no way it could be disassembled any other way ...

IMG_9205 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_9206 by tunneruk, on Flickr

Taking it out was relatively easy, there are two cross shields underneath which need to be removed with a 10mm socket. Mine came out like they went in yesterday, in fact the whole underside of the car is immaculate.

With the shields removed I removed the back of the DPF first allowing it to drop down on the Flexi pipe it's attached to at the front. This allows easy access to the 2x pressure pipes and the remaining 3x fixings to the Flexi pipe.

Once they were ground off I lowered down the DPF and unplugged the sensor.

Time to get it on the bench and assess the task ahead.

It was extremely clogged, so much so that a big pile of black soot actually fell out of the front of it as I lowered it down ...

IMG_9210 by tunneruk, on Flickr

So I got the pressure washer out and started making a mess!!

Good lord the amount of black ****e that came out of it was unreal, I washed it through in reverse (Towards the direction of the engine) for about 15 minutes before it started to run clear, I then stood it up and sprayed foaming oven cleaner in the front end and allowed it to seep through for 15 minutes.

IMG_9222 by tunneruk, on Flickr

Then back to the pressure washer for another 15 minutes, initially lots more grey water then eventually just suds from the oven cleaner.

Eventually it all ran clean so I left it for half an hour to drain out. Finally I blew it through with the air line until it was totally clean.

IMG_9225 by tunneruk, on Flickr

Trust me when I say this ..... Its a messy job!!

IMG_9223 by tunneruk, on Flickr

The next job was to sort out the rotten studs.

I ground them off flush, centre punched them and drilled them out ...

IMG_9229 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_9230 by tunneruk, on Flickr

They're originally a pressed fit but by the time I ran a drill through 0.5mm smaller the balance of the stud just tapped out.

The 2x studs in the rear part of the exhaust just tapped out after a soak with some penetrating spray.

The only thing left to do was bolt it all back together.

New Stainless bolts, Copper nuts and lots of copper grease.

IMG_9233 by tunneruk, on Flickr

IMG_9234 by tunneruk, on Flickr

It went back together like a charm. All in all a very very satisfying job.

I plugged it back into the computer and the DPF temps and pressure are all spot on.

It hasn't particularly (see what I did there) fixed the running problems but moving forward it's a job I can tick off the list and I can just forget it!

Next up .... Swirl flap replacement, intake clean and EGR deep clean .... but that'll be another thread!
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Old Aug 12th, 2018, 13:37   #2
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Great job! Thanks.
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Old Aug 12th, 2018, 15:31   #3
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Swirl flaps have been broken on my car for the last few years. I did the temporary fix to the actuator arm but it only lasted a few months. I haven't noticed any difference in driving with the swirl flaps non operational to be honest so I'm not sure if it is a fix worth doing.

With the DPF so badly clogged an oil change may be a good idea as well. Diesel in the oil is normally the result of a clogged DPF.
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Old Aug 12th, 2018, 15:48   #4
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Swirl flaps have been broken on my car for the last few years. I did the temporary fix to the actuator arm but it only lasted a few months. I haven't noticed any difference in driving with the swirl flaps non operational to be honest so I'm not sure if it is a fix worth doing.

With the DPF so badly clogged an oil change may be a good idea as well. Diesel in the oil is normally the result of a clogged DPF.
Cheers fella, I also have a Catalyst temp sensor fault which I'll address in the coming days. I think it's causing the car to over fuel hence the overly sooty DPF.
I will be doing an oil change very soon though.
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Old Aug 13th, 2018, 09:21   #5
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Great work Chris -
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Old Aug 13th, 2018, 09:47   #6
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Great work Chris -
Cheers fella, got to ask, how did you know my name was Chris?
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Old Aug 13th, 2018, 09:59   #7
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UKGSer mate - you've got a rep for great bike paint !
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Old Aug 13th, 2018, 10:37   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunneruk View Post
Cheers fella, I also have a Catalyst temp sensor fault which I'll address in the coming days. I think it's causing the car to over fuel hence the overly sooty DPF.
I will be doing an oil change very soon though.
very good job, what oven cleaner did you use,
I have not got a dpf, but I do have a cat as I have a 2002 D5 an would like to give the cats a clean,
Thanks Dave
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Old Aug 13th, 2018, 17:38   #9
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UKGSer mate - you've got a rep for great bike paint !
Small world huh!
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Old Aug 16th, 2018, 09:28   #10
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Sadly my elation didn't last long, turns out that my MAF was up the swanny and the car has been running so badly that it's clogged the DPF up again.

The only saving grace of course is that it's all brand new and copper clipped under there so removing and cleaning it out again should only take an hour or so!

IMG_9263 by tunneruk, on Flickr
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